This morning I switched my high beams on and the entire switching mechanism broke loose inside the column. As best as I can tell the switch fits into a C shaped metal bracket that it swivels on. The metal C shaped bracket has broken on the top edge. Its hard to tell but it looks like I would have to disassemble the sterring column to get to this bracket to replace it - not sure a backyard mechanic like me can handle it.

Do you guys have a blow up diagram of the column? Any pictures?

Is the part available retail or on-line or will it be a junk yard item?

I am fairly good at working on cars but if I do have to break down the sterring column - I assume I will need some sort of puller to remove the steering wheel - a special tool to remove nut holding wheel to column, etc - do you guys think I can handle this? - rent a puller or jigger rig a tool?

At this time I can, with difficulty reach my finger into the side of the column at put on the turn signals, with effort I can switch high beam off and on. With two hands I can put on wipers, mist-etc - but not the safest way to drive.

Thanks.....Milty

Yes, you will need (to rent) tools, and it's a junkyard part.
You at least need the steering wheel puller, and I have been making a make-shift compressor for the lock ring part. You may want to invest in a narrow, strong set of lock ring pliers. You will need a set of torx bits, phillips bits, and either a way to solder and heat-shrink or a wire terminal pin removal tool (mine is homemade, ground a mini flatblade screwdriver to be flat for about 1").

The nut that holds the wheel on the column is nothing special, just a larger size than most have. The tricky part is the airbag wire harness and the rotary piece, you have to push the wires up from the bottom of the column to push it out. Don't pull on it, it will break. It takes patience, the connectors like to get hung up in the wire guide, and some are taped together to the switch harness (annoying). I used a long zip tie and taped the bracket and wire to it to make it easier. Also note, the lock cylinder VATS wires are part of the switch harness, you'll see what I mean when you dig in. Be careful with them, but now is a good time to make sure they aren't getting pinched on anything or are worn through the insulation, or ready to break off. Once you pull the wire harness out of the column, you will have to remove the pins from the connector for those two wires, or splice them to the new harness.

Can you post a picture of what broke? IIRC mine broke on the plastic mechanism for the switch, not the metal piece.

_________________
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The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I can take a picture but I don't know how to attach it to this post. Please advise.

I have looked at the broken piece closer - the switch is not broken (plastic electrical unit) but the piece it sits in /connects to ( I believe is the turn signal mechanism) it also has a pin to hold it in place - I was hoping that somehow I could get it welded if possible while still attached to the steering column - easy fix - or some sort of paste I could purchase to mend the break - but of course it gets pressure put on it whenever I need to use the turn signal or high low beam - I imagine it would break quickly.