I just got my car back together and running. But really don’t like that the Intercooler pump is supposed to run all the time went the car is running. I have been working on a plan to have the pump only run when the intake manifold pressure is .75 psi and above. Then have it run for 1-2 min after boost is removed.

The plan is a pressure switch attached to the LIM vacuum line, then to a timer and on to a relay to control the pump. I have two uncles that have been helping me with the idea, both have 20 years plus of engineering and use of flow jet pumps (or ones like them). So I think it will work, but what do you guys think?

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2001 SSEi | Galaxy Silver | GenV supercharger P&P | Intense 3.2 MPS | Intense FWI 4"| Custom PCM | TOG Ceramic headers | Magnaflow 3" cat | 180° stat | Aeroforce scan gauge | PRJ plug wires | PRJ fuel rails | Silicone vacuum lines| AP103 plugs | 3.2 MPS | 42.5# injectors | Intense 1x cam kit | YT 1.8 Rockers | 105# springs | Meziere HD pump | N* Tb | 185mm MAF | 2" Phenolic Intercooler | Oil pressure kit | L32 short block | 5% overdrive SFI Balancer | L67 heads custom ported | EBC USR Rotors | EBC Red stuff pads | Custom HID Fog lights, with HI-beam over ride | Polyurethane motor mount | Energy Suspension end links | GXP Shocks/Struts | Custom Drop springs Front, Rear FE5 Springs | GXP Strut tower Brace | GP GXP 18x8 Rims | Polished Exhaust tips | Triple Edge High Performance Street/Strip 4T65E-HD |

Sounds like a valid plan. I'd suggest some sort of feedback though. Either intercooler water temperature, a flow switch lighting an LED, or at the very least, an LED off the pump power. This last one would be the lowest assurance of the 3, as it doesn't tell you if the pump actually came on.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Im just curious why you dont want it running all the time when the motors on.

You want the car to heat up somewhat, and it drags the system to have it run all the time. Plus you don't need it running when cruising. Would a bypass switch work for it to be on in the pits at the track, etc?

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

The intercooler has no effect on the car warming up or not, Ed. None whatsoever.

The primary concern that I could think of would be the life of the pump. Intercooler pumps only have so much life in them, many brands are short-lived. Less run time is a longer life. They don't use very much power at all.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

One thing I would be concerned about though is if you aren't circulating the water all the time, it will obviously warm up. Would the pump be able to kick in soon enough to get it cooled back down before you get farther into boost? It isn't going to be able to cool it down instantly once the pump turns on.

Edit: I guess the water in the heat exchanger would still be cooler, so it would pull that in first, so maybe it would work. I'm just adding my ideas, I might be wrong.

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-Tom

2003 Silverado Ext. Cab - Charcoal - 128,000 miles - Stock...for now.
2000 SSEi - Gone, but not forgotten.

Good plan! Such a circuit should be fairly simple to rig, even if it's vacuum-actuated.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

Here the links to the pressure switch time that i am going to use. The timer will be run a 30a automotive relay, so i don't over load the timer relay.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=671

http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-960.htm

I am going to look into Willwren subjection about a led feed back, when the pump is working. I think a flow meter in the coolant line should be the best way.

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2001 SSEi | Galaxy Silver | GenV supercharger P&P | Intense 3.2 MPS | Intense FWI 4"| Custom PCM | TOG Ceramic headers | Magnaflow 3" cat | 180° stat | Aeroforce scan gauge | PRJ plug wires | PRJ fuel rails | Silicone vacuum lines| AP103 plugs | 3.2 MPS | 42.5# injectors | Intense 1x cam kit | YT 1.8 Rockers | 105# springs | Meziere HD pump | N* Tb | 185mm MAF | 2" Phenolic Intercooler | Oil pressure kit | L32 short block | 5% overdrive SFI Balancer | L67 heads custom ported | EBC USR Rotors | EBC Red stuff pads | Custom HID Fog lights, with HI-beam over ride | Polyurethane motor mount | Energy Suspension end links | GXP Shocks/Struts | Custom Drop springs Front, Rear FE5 Springs | GXP Strut tower Brace | GP GXP 18x8 Rims | Polished Exhaust tips | Triple Edge High Performance Street/Strip 4T65E-HD |

Have you considered emulating the PWM Fuel Pump circuit? You could run your pump continuously at whatever (lower) speed/rpm/pressure you select, then bypass to full power based on a TPS or MAP/Vacuum signal. It shouldn't be that difficult to set up.

You could even set up a temp transducer that could tell your controller to override the PWM signal when the temp is out of (above?) your preferred range to run the pump full ON until the temp came back into your selected range automatically.

If I'm not mistaken, over time the net temperature would be lower and maintain that temp longer. I'd have to set up an experiment to prove that. Just a suggestion.

Geoff