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38bonne
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:37 pm
Posts: 21
Year and Trim: 2001 SE
So for the longest time I've been hearing a slight "hiss" coming from the brake pedal area. It used to stop when I'd push the pedal in and hiss when I let off. Now it does it regardless. The brake pedal doesn't really feel much different... I don't really notice anything, the brakes aren't overly tight or loose. You can also hear the "hiss" (vacuum of course) bleed off when the engine is shutdown. I've never actually had a booster fail on me before (at least that I've ever noticed) but it's quite obvious mine's leaking vacuum. If the cabin is quiet the passenger can even hear the hiss. Anyway, I ordered a new booster that should be here early next week and I'm wondering if anyone has had to replace their's? It doesn't look "too" bad but this will be a new one for me.

I'm curious what is going to need to be removed/moved ahead of it to slide the booster's studs and linkage out? Obviously the MC has to be unbolted and at least moved out of the way but is there anything else?
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38bonne
PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:48 am 
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Year and Trim: 2001 SE
...Didn't think so. Well since it's coming early... (today) I suppose maybe I'll be the one doing the write up?
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Archon
PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 10:30 pm
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Year and Trim: 2014 Cadillac XTS Vsport.
You have to have a little patience and give people a chance to get the information for you. First, did you check the vacuum check valve to make sure that is working properly? They're generally pretty reliable, but have been known to fail. This is your procedure.

Quote:
Removal Procedure

Remove the fuel injector sight shield.
Remove the air inlet duct.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the accelerator control cable bracket and position the cables out of the way.
Disconnect the engine harness clip from the EGR heat shield and position out of the way.
Disconnect the cruise control cable from the cruise module.
Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor wire connector.

Remove the master cylinder attaching nuts.
Remove the master cylinder from the booster. Carefully set the master cylinder aside.
Remove the booster vacuum hose from the vacuum check valve.

Remove the steering column.
Remove the booster pushrod from the brake pedal.
Remove the booster attaching nuts from the brake pedal assembly.

Remove the booster from the vehicle.
Remove the gasket.

Install the gasket to booster.
Install the booster to the vehicle.

Install the booster pushrod to the brake pedal and secure with spacer and clip.

Install the booster attaching nuts onto the booster studs. Tighten the brake pedal to booster stud nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
Install the steering column.


Install the master cylinder onto the vacuum brake booster.
Install the master cylinder attaching nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
Install the booster vacuum hose from the vacuum check valve.
Connect the brake fluid level sensor wire connector.


Install the cruise control cable to the module.
Install the accelerator control cable bracket.
Connect the engine harness clips from the accelerator control bracket and the EGR shield.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Install the air inlet duct.
Install the fuel injector sight shield.

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38bonne
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:37 pm
Posts: 21
Year and Trim: 2001 SE
Yeah I know they don't fail too often heck, this is my first one. Not expecting too much info but I'm quite certain mine is failed internally, likely the rear valve in the booster doesn't seal anymore. It's quite obvious vacuum is leaking. I got some adapters and things to work on my hand held vac. pump and no matter how many times I pump it I have a real hard time getting it to hold anything.

Will give it a go today, weather's nice. Thanks
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38bonne
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:37 pm
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Year and Trim: 2001 SE
Everything went fine really, it's not all that difficult for our cars. I didn't bother removing the steering shaft, the only thing that's in the way is the boot around the shaft which is flexible enough that I was able to just push the socket past it and undo the nut. Everything else, I mostly followed the steps outlined above. The new booster makes a big difference, engine doesn't have a hard time starting anymore when warm, idle has returned to normal (was low I thought before~650 is now 750 where it always used to be)

I undid the lines to the MC to get it out of the way and just did a quick and dirty bleed by loosening and tightening the lines as the pedal was pressed/depressed. All in all I'm happy with the job and the annoying "hiss" in the cabin is finally gone. I'll do a more proper 4-wheel bleed tomorrow but it's got pressure enough and no adjustments were necessary (I used an OEM ACDelco booster though)

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Portal » Board index » Mechanical and Maintenance (no chat or performance) » 2000-2005 (other than GXP)

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