Clean looking car! My dad had a '96 with the same interior and exterior colors. Clean white paint always looks good!

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So does the 4T65-E tranny have gear oil for the Diff or does it just share the ATF? If it does use Gear Oil, what weight? 85w-90? I'm going to change the ATF soon with good Amsoil and wanted to change the diff at the same time if possible.

Had a few quirks today. Anyone know why the warning chime (Which usually dings when the fuel gauge goes to empty and the light comes on saying "Check Gauges") instead this time the warning chime dings, but no light came on and all gauges are reading normal (How ever accurate they really are) This chime happened while driving about 3 times within 15mins. Is the computer wigging out?

Also, why does the Voltage gauge falls all the way to zero and then climbs back to 14v in about 2seconds (With Brand new Alternator or original, doesn't change) The voltage gauge seems to fluctuate more than I think is right. What else is in the charging system line other than the alt? Diodes and Regulator are all built into the Alt correct?

By the way, all connections and body grounds are clean. Ideas?

Well, I noticed why the Chiming happens. Seems to ding when the Automatic light comes on and off (Never used to) is this normal? We had a '99 S-10 Blazer with the Automatic lights and it never dinged turning on and off.

Is this a sign of another issue?

Anyone know how similar the rear disc setup on a 2000+ Bonneville is Vs. the Drum brakes on the '92-'99 Bonnes. I know the control arms are different between the two gens, but I wonder if the backing plate would bolt up?

Looking to swap rear disc onto the Bonne soon. I may have to go to a junkyard and see what differences there are if anyone and if they can be over come.

Other than that, the car has been perfect! Looking forward to putting all new suspension on this rig soon! I will post part numbers of everything when I do buy it all.

Thanks goes out to Clay (94SilverSSEi) for letting me know the car should actually have 3 splash guards which go under the motor and on each control arm. Luckily enough he had given me a set today! Thanks man. Now I'll need to get some push clips and get them on.

Perhaps the belt won't slip anymore in the rainy weather (New Gates belt btw)

Cheers,
-Tom

Not sure if you got your answers as these are from a while ago but I'll answer what I can.



No, there is no gear oil in the diff. The differential is basically part of the transmission, hence it technically being called a "transaxle." The transmission fluid lubricates the diff as well.




If anything it would be the BCM (body control module) but as long as your windows, locks, lights work I wouldn't worry about it unless there are other problems with the car. You said grounds were good. You checked the one under the carpet on the edge of the driverside front carpet.

That is very odd about the chiming with lights going on or off. I've never had a bonneville that did that.

Battery gauge will fluctuate a little (mine does at least) I would say it roughly goes between 10ish when the car starts then jumps to 14 within a couple seconds, then bounces are between 12-15. Not sure if its normal but its what my mom's car does at least.





Well the 00+ have rear shocks where as the 92-99 have rear struts. If you look into Mattstrike's 1993 ssei build he has done some brake work. But its definitely a lot more complicated than just swapping parts over.


Good luck! Hope that helps your belt squeal issues. If it continues to be an issue, maybe check the tensioner and see if you are getting enough pressure on the belt to keep it from slipping.

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Clay
1997.2 40th SLE-138k
1968 Bonneville 400ci w/TH-400-40k
1999 GMC Suburban SLT-191k
2005 Escalade 253k-GINA

Thanks man, yeah most of this I figured out by searching. Haven't really had any other voltage issues since I added another Ground from the firewall to the block and also I found that the batt terminals came loose! I also added a copper washer, just so there is more surface for contact, plus it won't corrode.

Subaru uses a "Transaxle" aswell, but it has another reservoir for gear oil which lubricates the pinion and output shafts. Either way, now its got Amsoil's best ATF in it

Now, from what I've seen, looking at the tensioner (While I was changing the waterpump) looks as if the tensioner is part of the timing cover? I have an FSM for a '92 Bonneville and I will probably look at that anyway. Also the tensioner bearing has a little play in it, nothing serious, but it is getting worn.

The tensioner is part of the tensioner bracket assembly. It is where the coolant elbows attached to as well as being the tensioner. It's kind of a PITA to have to change.

That's interesting about the subie though having a separate reservoir, didn't know that.

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Clay
1997.2 40th SLE-138k
1968 Bonneville 400ci w/TH-400-40k
1999 GMC Suburban SLT-191k
2005 Escalade 253k-GINA

Just an updated photo.

So after having the Murry radiator start leaking (Bought from O'reillys when I worked there) I am now swapping in a Full Aluminum radiator, it also has extra ports for the Oil cooler lines, which the SE doesn't have. But perhaps I could swap it over at some point.

Also, going to start running Amsoil Signature Series 0w-40 Full Synthetic for year round.

Cool, sounds good.. I do like the HD type radiators, nothing like keeping a engine cool in the hot summer months..

I recommend you follow the owners manual ( I think your target oil viscosity is probably close to OEM recommendations.) My old '92 ran fine with OEM (10w-30) with 305K miles until a "real" mechanic at a "real" auto repair shop "fixed" it. - BC

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In Memory of Brad - 1/21/1977 .. 10/23/2013 ...... Aaron - 1977 .. 2017 .....
2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... PBCF user 2321

But hey, He was ASE certified! :p

As for oil, I am going to run 0w-30. (The 0-w40 was a typo) Since 0 weight will flow much quicker in -25* temps for cold start ups it will add more protection and less stress on the motor, the viscosity when hot will still be the same and still allow the same amount of cushion between metallic parts.

Basically, 10w-30 is becoming a dinosaur in oil technology. It may have been fine 25-30yrs ago, but oil has made some pretty vast improvements over the last 20yrs.

10w30 is called for by the mfr above 61 deg f, assuming conventional oil. 0w30 will behave the same at temp as a 10w30 or sae 30. But with the syn and the higher viscosity spread, the oil has a better film strength so the oil clings to parts better. Basically, look at it this way: 10w for temps down to 0 deg, 5w to -20, and 0w below -20. For cold starts the 0w will move better. During the heat, the same oil pressure will yield higher volume of flow.

So, I am thinking I will have to replace the intake/plenum gaskets this summer. Besides there being pools of oil on top of the motor I am thinking oil is getting into a water jacket and is getting into the cooling system since I've noticed I have drops of oil floating in the Radiator.

I don't think it is a Head gasket, I don't seem any bubbles in the radiator, nothing is getting into the crank case and its not coming out of the exhaust, so thats good news.

So am I right to think this is an intake gasket issue, or is there another way for oil to get into the coolant?

-Tom

Oh yeah, just got this today! All Aluminum radiator! $172 seemed like a fair price.

You're gonna make me go out in the cold and rain to get the owners manual out of the glove box to see what viscosity oil is recommended at the temperature you mentioned. I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do know that 10w-30 is not recommended at the temperature -25F. - BC

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In Memory of Brad - 1/21/1977 .. 10/23/2013 ...... Aaron - 1977 .. 2017 .....
2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... PBCF user 2321

10w will still run when it gets that cold out up here but it is really sluggish till it gets warmed up and can cause some extra ware and tare on the mechanics under the hood. 0w30 should be ok abut I know that most the time just going down to the 5w will work wonders too. The GP runs on 5w and it started quicker and ran easier then M.M. did on the 10w till I had to park him this winter. But, I run the High Mileage all natural instead of the synthetic in my cars so I honestly do not know if that will make a big difference or not. Did you get the oil in places its not suppose to be in fixed yet?

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They call me...Snowflake
Mine:1998 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3800 II 250k miles (Bad engine)
MODS: all chrome lug nuts, ported UIM LIM, 180 T-stat
In Progress: Finished overhaul under the hood, & updated interior.

OURS(DD): 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100SFI 165k miles MODS: custom lights both front and back
Hers: 04 Pontiac Aztec Base model. More to come later

Nah, haven't done much to it yet. been working on the Subie trying to finish the Lift and tires and such. I have yet to change the oil in the Bonne as well. Its only at about 5,500 on the currant oil. The Amsoil I run can go for about 25,000/1yr under normal service, but since this motor was pretty dirty when I started working on it, I've been changing the oil about 5-6k. I think the next time I will be able to run it longer.

As for the leaking stuff, I think all I need to replace are the Valve cover gaskets. I still don't know where the oil is coming from which is getting into the cooling system, I'm surprised coolant isn't getting into the oil as well :/

There is a bunch of stuff I need to do to the car this summer, add that to the lift of 2 Subarus and the Landcruiser, yeesh!

Can you get a picture of this? Every time I hit a puddle in my 2000, my belt squeals from water getting on it. Even though I do have a plastic cover over the front half on my engine bay.

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2000 SSEi *sold 9/27/15* December '12 & May '15 COTM
2005 Grand Prix
2009 G8 GXP #418 of 1,829 November '15 TOCOTM