Things done so far:
Compression test okay
Coolant Flush & check hoses (raplace bad upper hose clamp (Replace with anything green)
Tires Zeon
Suspension inspection
Oil Okay per last (Will replace soon running S-Foam through at that time)
Removed crap from blower motor and replaced inside filter
Trouble P0102 with 2 GM and Finally a new MAF test okay
Replaced all vac hoses
Replaced Plugs with Iridium (this sucks as I will be replacing them again soon)Anyone needs some with about 50miles on them let me know
Replaced wires

To Do:

Drop trans pan and replace filter
Replace right front hub (Ordered from Rock)
Replace Sway links
Have alignment done
Replace rear brakes
Inner fender well right side missing (Haro)
Seat belt Drives used up (replace) (Haro)
Replace rim (found hairline crack) (Haro?)(Anyone have one of these rims to sell????
Install missing bolts in quarter panel and inner fender (Haro)

Install Goodie pack stage 1 from Intense

Well that's not to bad for having it a week. I will also start going through the engine and cleaning it up... hate a nasty looking bay.

Oh ya, putting those tires on made a hell of a diffrence, it had some badly worn Goodyears on it and it was torque steering and all around ill handling. I was amazed what those tires did.

JT

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

Have the lower intake manifold gaskets been replaced with the updated aluminum ones?

EDIT: Never mind, saw the pic!

_________________

*dang* guys, that axle nut was the mother of all pain in the rears... The threads were gone! No compressor :( So I had to use a 1/2 x 24 breaker bar and it took me an hour to get the sucker off! I'm going to have to replace the iuter half there because there is noway I'm putting that back in. So is there any trick to get that lower ball join out of there without screwing it up? It's fine, but I need to get it out to get the axle out. You can't get the the hub bolts with the axle there... it's one of those you can't get there from here deals.

BTW I actually snapped a 1/2 breaker getting it off.

My kingdom for an air compressor and an impact!

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

I've done that without a cheater bar - the reason I didn't change the front struts on my SSEi.

It sounds like the '00+ has a different knuckle design. Are you asking how to get the nut off the ball joint to pop the knuckle off? The trick to that is to get the cotter pin out first, then it's fairly straightforward to remove the nut and use a ball joint fork to pop it loose (you might have to replace the grease boot if your not careful). If it's like the '99- you can use a bar wedged against the subframe and control arm and a jack to push the control arm down and hold it down out of the way.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

You can get the hub bolts out with the axle in, it's not very hard at all, just takes a 13mm socket and a decent extension on a ratchet. With the bearing out, according to Andrew you can get the axle out without popping the ball joint, but we weren't able to tonight.

The easiest way to separate the ball joint is to use a bar to pry down on the control arm and pound with a hammer on the flat spot on the back of the knuckle right by the ball joint. Having a helper to pry and/or pound on the knuckle really helps as well.

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Cotter was too rusted to get it to move and whomever installed it drove it in to the point you could get to the other end, so I just clipped it off and turned through it. I have to teach a class all day today, so it will have to wait for tonight, or possibly tomorrow as my lady is getting a little pissed I'm spending too much time with the car instead of her.

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

I couldn't get to the upper bolts without cutting the boot, I suppose I could have done that, being as I'm going to replace it, it still puts a bad angle on the bolt and I didn't want to strip the sucker.

I thought the threads on the axle were just covered in rust, but that was not the case, they were just completely rusted to the point they aren't threads anymore. Bad design to leave those threads exposed to the elements... When I put the new one on I'm going to seal it somehow, perhaps lube it and shrink tube or something. Perhaps, I'll just double nut the sucker, thereby protecting the threads. If/When I do the other side, I will take it to a buddies and remove that nut with an impact. Darn thing *dang* near killed me getting it off.

I was hesitant to use a pickle in there for fear of screwing up that boot, but perhaps I will just have at it and replace it. My intent was to just reboot the CV, but now I need to at least replace the end of it so it has new threads. I am trying to decide whether or not to replace it with a rebuilt one, but from what I hear the rebuilt s are never as good.

What do you guys think. replace the end and keep the OEM or just pull it and replace with a Duralast rebuilt?

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

By the time you find a place that will replace the end of the axle and get a price, you will be much better off getting a rebuilt one or a used factory one. I actually prefer used factory over rebuilt, I have never had an issue with used ones unless the boot is torn, but I have had two rebuilt ones fail under warrant, one of them was bad as soon as I drove on it.

Also sort of odd that the threads on yours were so bad, my 2003 has almost 240,000 miles on it and both axles have excellent threads with no rust at all on them.

_________________
Ryan

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

Get a quality rebuild, not a Duralast....

And yeah, my car has 191k and the threads are still pretty nice. Granted, the axle-nuts have been off a couple of times. Sounds like someone ran the wheels without the centercaps or something for a while.

I have never had an issue getting to the bolts. You have to manuever the end of the axle around a little bit, but it's not THAT bad...

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Who do you suggest then>? NAPA new or rebuilt or other?

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

I'd suggest a NAPA rebuilt. Anything "new" is going to be all made in china, but generally rebuilt parts use the OEM part with new parts in it, so hopefully there's fewer cheap chinese parts in there, and it was more likely rebuilt in America...

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Roger that, hoping to pick one up from NAPA later today and finish the job.

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

Okay guys, I got the half shaft done as well as the wheel hub (both drivers side) as well as the sway bushing. You may have heard me describe a light vibration in a right hand sweeper earlier in another thread. That is what prompted me to change the wheel hub and the CV was because the boot was cracked.

So the job is done and I take it for a ride and immediately hear a squeaking noise from the left front. *dang*! I was thinking about it and came up with ball joint heat shield and sure enough it was rubbing the rotor. Okay, pulled it out a bit and out for another test drive.

I got to a right hand sweeper and felt the vibration again. I worked various speeds to try and replicate and it happens most of the time like this:

Under very light throttle, 30MPH and a bit of a turn to the right, not dramatic swerve, but the lane change variety. Now, I thought about how to best describe it to you guys to give you the best chance and helping my isolate it and here's what comes to mind. It sounds and feels almost like a light ABS vibration. (Sounds like it's coming from drivers front) I'm not saying it's ABS, but just like and ABS pulse only a bit lighter and no brake applied. I drove it again just now and it does happen at any speed, the keys seem to be right turn under low acceleration. I can just feather the gas and do a slow slalom and every time I get on the right leg of it I hear and feel a slight thrumming noise. Like a chatter sound with very little felt through the wheel and a slight feel through the pedal. It also reminds me of a power steering pulse, but when I stop and crank the wheel without moving it does not make the noise.

This is the same one I had before and I just put new tires on and had them balanced too.

I have some thoughts on this, but I don't want my thoughts to influence yours.

BTW That half shaft that broke my breaker bar...

thanks

JT

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

Is it possible to have a friend drive along side with a passenger to watch the tires closely when you feel the shimmy? If you can feel it you can usually see it. That will isolate which wheel its from, as well as what kind of vibration it's making will help isolate which components are doing it. My thoughts are on the bushings (strut mount, control arms, etc.), they can be checked with a prybar. Or even an underdamped strut maybe. Another simple test is to swap tires and see if it stays or moves with the tire - I don't know if you already tried that.

Nice C/V, it'll buff out!

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

Wow. I hope you replaced the axle-nut too...

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Any more ideas?? BTW How much left should I see on that front mount when I put it in gear and give it a bit of gas? I'm seeing an inch perhaps 2 with very light gas.

Also, Jacked it up and crawled under the thing and turned the wheel back and forth and that rear trans mount sure allows for a lot of travel. In fact just going forward and reverse by hand the trans and indeed the whole motor moves a bit. Sure seems like it should not move with that little force. Also have been noticing some rather strange shifts and some hard ones too.

EDIT: I changed the front mount and put an Anchor one in there... Lifetime so if it gives up I'll just get a new one.

EDIT 2: The drivers side mount is bad, I found all the fluid leaked out and the rear trans is bad too. Will replace and advise. (I know the side mounts hardly ever go, but remember, this vehicle has been hit.

JT

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB

THought I would update this thread.... The Anchor mount destroyed itself almost immediately and I went to the puck system. I still have that vibration issue and have had no luck tracking it down. I have some ideas about that, but it's going to wait for now until it gets warm and I replace the rack. I have one sitting here with new lines.

Anyway, on the the speed stuff... I followed all your advice on other threads about what to change before doing any speed work and have done all that cept the o2 and the Fuel filter which will be done tomorrow. I did the Intense Fender intake and have the Stage I stuff here. In the process I spole to John and the guys in regards to going to Stage II. The only real difference from II to III is the tune and some headers, so I figured what the hell and am going from I to III, but I want to get the Aero on there go to stage I and check for any of the infamous knock. The headers are on the way as are the Intense Rockers, Springs, Rods and tune for SIII.

Tomorrows project is fuel filter, another oil change and trans filter, Aero install and stage I pulley. I'll get that done and see if I find any KR and if not, Then it's on to installing the roller rockers, rods and springs, replacing the PSM (again) and installing the headers then see what the she will do.

Oh and I finally gave the car a name... Most cars I have had were named after women, but this one seems more like a guy. This car has been hit many times and put back with parts from all years and models... SOmeone said Frankenbonnie in another thread and that is pretty much the truth on this one, but she has a salvage title, she has been hit many times and the last time someone gave up on her and I pulled her from the ashes.... so she is now The Phoenix. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phoenix_%28mythology%29

Okay guys, what have I overlooked? What else do I need to do? I am looking at checking the fuel rail pressure before a jumping her to LIII DO I need to have each injector tested? What else?

_________________
2002 SSEI "Twitch"
INTENSE™ Fenderwell Intake Kit
INTENSE™ Modular Pulley System with 3.40" Pulley -
SD Headers H-Flow Cat
WB 255 Siemens 60.0 (65.0) pound/hour Fuel Injectors
Yella Terra 1.9 90# Manley Retainers
L32 LIM & Gen V Blower N* TB