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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Location: MN/IA
Year and Trim: '17 Silverado 1500
Great Success!!! Glad to hear she's back on the road and running like a beast.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:52 pm 
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Year and Trim: 99 Regal, 00 WS6, Gary Fisher 29er
Dang that supercharger looks good, so does the whole engine bay Matt. Good job guys. :hail:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:12 pm 
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Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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2000Silverbullet wrote:
I think it wasn't necessary to bypass the rad for his trani cooler particularly since he changed to a 160 stat, cooler the better as long as he doesn't stress the trani when it's temp is less than 130F
Matt, what temp are you running at and after how long from a cold start?


Ok Paul, I collected some data for you. Initial condition was setting all night from a cold start. Outside temp was 62*, transmission started out at 75* and coolant was 87*.

The data:

Miles.....speed (MPH).....trans temp.....coolant temp
1.3.........35......................85..................160
2.1.........45......................96..................163
4.6.........55.....................107.................167
13.8.......55.....................130..................167
16.5.......55.....................134..................167
18.......25-35...................149..................168
26.6.....stop n go..............156..................172

I was then Waiting for Wendy to get off work and when I shut it off the transmission was at 150 and the coolant was 174. There was a 25 min period of being shut off before we headed home. The highest I saw was 167 on the transmission and 182 on the coolant and this was in the morning rush hour traffic coming through Portland.

I know this was a cool morning and I will do it again when it gets cooler by at least 10 more degrees. I will also do it when the weather gets warmer too.

Another contributing factor is relocating the cooler. With it behind the bumper where I had it, I was still seeing the temp reach 200* due to lack of air flow. Here is where it is now.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Location: Oregon WCBF'04, '05, '06, '07, '08, '09, '10, '11 Survivor
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Too bad you couldn't turn it 90° for better flow along the stacked plates.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:56 pm 
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Unless I went with a smaller cooler, there is not enough room. Where I had it before, it was being blocked by the aluminum bumper.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:56 pm 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi, 79 Firebird, 88 Jeep, 11 Yukon Denali
Not bad. Looks like the trani is taking about 15 minutes to warm up to performance temperature while mine takes about 5 minutes.
Mine also rises to 160F after about 10 minutes.
Yours stays cooler for a longer amount of time initially which is good for the track but you have to be more patient on warm up, as I suspected.
The only thing you really have to worry about is blowing an internal seal due to higher cold fluid pressures if you go WOT too early but I really haven't heard about that being an issue with our trani's.......have you Bill? :???:

Our coolant temps are practically identical. =D>

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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An update on the Rubber Chicken:

Changing plugs today and did another compression check.

before....................now

1 = 170................170
2 = 165................170
3 = 180................175
4 = 165................170
5 = 165................175
6 = 170................170

Still running strong after 4000 miles. Hopefully get a lot more fun ones! :banana:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 11:57 pm 
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Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Year and Trim: (RIP 10/31/15) 1997 SE
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Wow, I hadn't kept track of the progress on your car, but I was wondering how it went so I intentionally looked for this thread. That's fantastic that you're back on the road and it's running better than ever. Big kudos to everybody involved!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:11 am 
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It is actually running very good right now. Hopefully this spring I can get my wideband and tuning software. I also plan on hitting the track a lot more this year.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:16 am 
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boy i dont pop in this thread for a while and look what i missed!! that engine looks and sounds great matt! looks like its running *dang* good too!

congrats on having the rubber chicken back on the road..heres to enjoyin the time behind the wheel and letting that odometer roll on :beerchug: :bwoohoo:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:51 am 
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slow..... :btruestory: :-# :-# :P :P

well done gang,i love whine :sucks:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:03 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Year and Trim: 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
Love the thread and great work! =D>
willwren wrote:
Stainless Steel coolant plugs anyone?
Image

Why would you plug these ports? Is it because the car is in a warmer climate and wont be driving in the cold? Even then what benefit is there to this, cooler intake temps? I plan only only summer driving my build and might consider this. What grit did you prep the surface with?

myfirstbonnie wrote:
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Hey what did you do with the extra cast oil pan and oil neck?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:08 pm 
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The coolant ports were blocked for a couple reasons. One is to remove another heat source from the TB (air temp) and second, when the SC is removed the coolant does not have to be drained.

The LIM was worked over by Willwren and I have no idea what grit he used to clean it up. If I had to guess, he used his air tools.

The cast pan is sitting in my garage right now. It is from a GP and will not work on a 2k+ bonneville due to the motor mount.


Last edited by myfirstbonnie on Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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