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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2020 9:03 am 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 6:11 pm
Posts: 9193
Location: Chicago, IL
Year and Trim: 2003 SLE
I can't wait to see it when it is all done again. Just looking at your sig photo makes me happy haha

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"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 208k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 73k miles
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 10:18 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
Thanks. I can't wait either. I miss having it look that good and can't believe it was last painted just over a decade ago.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
I pulled the fenders to re-do the mating surfaces to the bumper. The hang up here was that the E39 sections make a lip on mating area and the fender needs up be built up slightly to hide it. Before I just built up the outer quarter inch or so (to clear the lip) with kitty hair and that's the only thing the bumper was mating against. That bothered me and I wanted to make sure the entire surface was uniform this time around. I decided to use Evercoat Polyflex here after roughing the area up with 40 grit. The idea is that having a flexible friendly filler at the mating surface will fare better. The passenger side is roughed out pretty good but I still need to finish up the drivers.

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I also took a look at the bumper to see if it's really a thermoset polyurethane. I was sure the fenders were do to the yellow color but I have suspicions about the bumper since it's dark in color. The ID has "PU" circled which stands for polyurethane and likely thermoset apparently but the more common IDs are "PUR" or "RIM". I set the plastic welder to 'PUR' and it starts the melt the plastic but doesn't seem like it'll weld, so the melting point is polyurethane at least. I'll have to read more..

Image

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:32 pm
Posts: 4640
Location: Dearborn, MI
Year and Trim: '93 SSEi
'05 STS-4
'97 Camaro
'97 LeSabre
It's possible that it is a TPU as well.

But with some older parts the material code wasn't required so it's possible the PU marking isn't a material code, maybe a generic plastic code. I'll see what the bumper on my 93 looks like, I know it's not the same plastic as the fenders, I was able to plastic weld the rear bumper on my 93. It was definitely a glass filled material, which is going to make it very difficult to weld. My initial thought is that it's a glass filled TPU, but it could also be mold/trim/year specific and the plastic changed once or more over the years.

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Blow all the things! Wait, I meant boost. Boost!
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The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

Current project:
'99 Montana - top swap 3800

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
According to this site, your 93 has TPE. I'd be curious to see what marking your bumper has.
https://www.polyvance.com/bumperid.php

A 96-99 SE rear bumper I have has 'PUR' marked on it, which matches that site at least. What's strange is the p/n 25644216 doesn't match any 96-99 bumper though. At least I potentially have something to compare with?

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When I went to melt my 95's front bumper in a hidden spot at low heat, it did melt but also kind of sizzled as if it was a thermoset. I think I need to do it again to see if it discolors. I also did a sand test to see if it smears (thermoplastic) or powders (thermoset) but it wasn't very conclusive.

Some good news is the driver side fender is more or less ready to be primed. I finished the bottom, touched up the headlight molding hook area with kitty hair, knocked the vertical area down past primer, swiped the whole vertical area with Evercoat lightweight, hit it with the pneumatic straight line then long blocked it. I left some material on the vertical bumper mating surface to fine-tune when it's mounted back up. The passenger side is basically ready for the light weight swipe but I ran out of time.

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_________________
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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 10:55 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1721
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
:hail: I look forward to seeing some paint on this.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
Me too!

I noticed an asymmetry in thickness on the passenger side fender so I ground down the vertical area near the wheel wheel and built it up to match the finished driver's side. Then I repeated the process I did on the driver's fender. I left both areas below where the headlight molding hooks in a little rough just so it can be fine tuned when I re-do the bumper and match it.

So this means the fenders are like 95% finished. :bwoohoo:

Image
Image

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2020 12:59 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
So a little more testing and I determined that the front bumper is most definitely thermoset.. There's a float test where if it's a thermoplastic, it'll float, and if not, it's likely a thermoset plastic. It sunk. I also held the plastic welder iron on a hidden lip of the bumper to see if it would sizzle and discolor, which it did. That means it's most definitely a thermoset. I compared it to a mounting tab from the thermoset 96-99 bumper. The textures are definitely different when sanded but react the same when heated.

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Now.. With that figured out. I tried to get clear polyurethane rod (designated for thermoset plastic repair) to adhere to the 96-99 tab with no luck. I modulated the temperature as directed to ensure I didn't melt the base material or overheat the rod. I was sure I had this dialed in. I tried to get it do stick to the 95 bumper 3x increasing the coarseness every time but I was able to pull the new material off every time.

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So, I'm back to thinking of using a urethane epoxy to build the bumper up. I was cruising McMaster and found a urethane adhesive by JBWeld no less that I think I've settled on. It's their 'Plastic Bonder' - "urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more." I'll rough up the bumper as best I can, use this to build it up then use the Evercoat Poly-Flex to skim and fine tune the shape.

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 10:53 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1721
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
Bummer on the plastic welding. I've had mixed results with plastic welding, most of it unsuccessful. I'm probably doing it wrong.

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People think I'm nuts, but Matt proved it.

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Screw you, Photobucket.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6198
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
I've had some pretty good results in the past but they were mostly thermoplastics that lended themselves to being melted/reformed.

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Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


Top
 Profile  
 
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