Ok, the passenger side engine mount had been holding me up. Turns out that the engine mount runs into a bolt casting on the block. It was impossible to line up the engine-driveshaft mounts to the bolt hole in the block without doing some grinding (Bill let me use his compressor and die grinder to make the necessary modification). As you can see in the picture, it only needed a 5mm semi-circle cut out of the mount to fit. So I finally have the engine bolted solidly in place and ready for the last parts to be put on. Car will be running tomorrow or Monday. Here's some pics of the mount and of swapping the crankshafts:


I just opened up the engine from the bottom and lifted out the crank, leaving in the rods and pistons. I didn't need to tear apart the whole top end again.

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

Just heard from Jordan. She's back together for the most part, but cranking slowly. He's using the SSEi to top the battery off.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I have the engine cranking, but not firing. Engine blowing air/fuel out the carb intermittantly during cranking. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the manifold to check vacuum during cranking. It was fluctuating around 2 in.Hg with spikes where the manifold pressurized to 1-2 psi. I pulled the valve cover to observe cylinder #1s valves while I rotated the crank to #1 tdc. It turns out the cam is exactly 180* out. Apparently the crankshaft I installed out of the '85 307 is keyed differently than the '67 330 crank, so the mark on the timing gear was at the wrong location (I used the timing set for the '67 330). So I just need to pull the harmonic balancer and timing cover to reset the cam and timing chain. One more day of work hopefully!

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

The car is running!!!!!!
I reset the cam and got it all together, and the car fired right up when I turned the key! Still have to work out some bugs, I have a couple coolant leaks, a squeaking belt, and my oil warning light is on.

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

Missed your call last night (was working late). Glad to hear it!

(for those that don't know, he's got about half my tools over there!)

I'll have that timing light for you today. We need to get my compressor back over here as soon as you know you won't need it any more. Have you tried to drive it yet?

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Looks good, now we need to see pictures and a video. I am glad the timing thing worked out. If you need a light let me know, I still have mine here.

Heading out the door to drop him a timing light right now. Don't bring yours on Sunday, Matt.

The oil pressure light went away (probably right about the time the oil pump fully primed) and he fixed 3 coolant leaks. He drove the car today too.......exhaust smells good, idles fine, and not blowing any smoke other than a few wisps to be expected from spills under the hood.

I'll see it run in 5 minutes.......

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Blew the upper radiator hose clamp, otherwise looked and smelled pretty good.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I would like to see some pics. I had an 85 Toro Caliente' with voice prompts. It was cool.

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Steve
Was - 1998 SSEi - 128,000 mi. ---- SOLD----
Was - 2003 Cadillac DeVille DTS - 91,000 mi. ----SOLD----
Is - 2008 Cadillac STS AWD Luxury, Black/Black.
2008 Ford Fusion SEL, - Midnight blue - Black leather int.
2005 Buick Lacrosse CXL, Silver - Black leather Int.

I had all the pics of the project posted in this thread, but they've disappeared for some reason, I had them uploaded onto the Pontiac Bonneville Club gallery, I wonder if there is a problem with posting pics from there. Anyway, heres the pics of the car. The exterior hasnt changed any since.
Yea it does have the voice that tells you to turn on lights, release handbrake, explain what can happen if you dont fix the charging system, all that stuff that just makes you yell "Thanks KITT, I know already!!!"





ENGINE BEFORE:


ENGINE AFTER:

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

This week has been one big headache...
I originally had 3 coolant leaks: 1 at a heater hose, 1 at thermostat housing, and one at the lower radiator hose. I fixed all three, re gasketed the thermo housing, and ran the car. Then the upper radiator hose starts leaking when Bill comes over, so I install a replacement the next day and try to start the engine. The car is out of gas; I fill my 1 gal can and put some gas in the olds. Then the battery takes a dump after one round of cranking, and wouldn't take a charge even when I had my bonneville running and hooked up to the battery for an hour. I take the battery out of my bonneville, put it in the olds and it fires up. I drive the olds to get gas and a new battery. On my way to knects I have smoke pouring out from under the hood; it's the upper radiator hose again. Turns out the opening on the upper radiator hose is a little too large for the thermostat housing and wont make a good seal. So I took a half stick of JB-weld (don't laugh!) and formed it around the outside of the thermostat housing to give it a larger diameter to match the radiator hose. I installed the new battery, and the car runs fine, no problems. This morning I drive it to work fine, but as soon as I come back home and park in my driveway, I smell coolant (uh-oh what now?). I opened the hood to find the thermostat housing leaking AGAIN, as well as coolant POURING out of a crack in the water pump!!
Looks like I need to replace the thermostat housing, and more JB-weld for the water pump. Or maybe I just need a vacation...

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

Nice job on the engine transplant.

With the leaking thermostat housing. Have you tried swapping out the housing from the original 307? The should be completely interchangeable. If i'm looking at one of the pictures correctly it looks like you removed some material at the mating surface of the gold thermostat housing. The later model thermostat housings had more of a flared out end on them in which the radiator hose had to stretch over and allowed it to seal properly. Also, what kind of clamps are you using on the hoses? Are they the original ones? Are the heater hoses new?

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2004 Bonneville SE: Dark Ming Blue Metallic (1 of 778), Bench seats, Cloth Interior, Beldin wires, Power Stop Rotors, 274724...... RIP

Swapping the thermo housing out for the 307 housing is gonna be what I do next. The bottom surface of the housing on the 330 is pitted, but I made the upper radiator hose seal using some JB-weld putty to enlarge the flare on the housing. I replaced the clamps with new screw "worm gear" style ones. The heater hose is new and not giving me any trouble. My radiator developed a bunch of leaks and could not keep the engine cool , so I need to replace that as well. It is the original radiator and has heavy corrosion inside and out, so I'm not surprised.
I've had the whole weekend to take a step back and relax; this is no big deal they are easy fixes.

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.

I bought a new radiator from carquest, they happened to have one on the shelf for $120, the cheapest price I could get anywhere. I installed that with a new thermostat (overheating the engine caused it to fail) and replaced the housing with the one off the 307, which was in better shape. I'm letting the silicone on the thermo housing set overnight, so I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and make sure it's sealed.

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1997 Camaro Z28: LT1 with a proper 6-speed gearbox, Centerforce clutch, Bilstein struts, Ground Control adjustable springs, LCAs, PHR, SFCs, EBC Yellow brake pads, K&N intake, Comp Cams 502 (duration 218/224 @.050, lift .495/.503), LS6 valve springs, Pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust, custom PCM tune by Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver, WA.

2013 BMW 135i: 3.0 liter turbo I6, 7 speed Dual Clutch Transmission, M-Sport package, bone stock.

Sold, but missed: 1996 Bonneville SSEi, 3.4 pulley, Intense intake, Zilla Motorsports ported LIM.