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 Post subject: Re: 2003 BMW M5
PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 2:29 pm 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6541
Location: Philadelphia
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
nos4blood70 wrote:
Looks like some fantastic adventures.. I don't envy you being up fro 36 hours, as I've been there, but the road trips that come from that kind of thing are always memorable.

Amazing to see all the little fixes most people would let go. This is how I've been treating all of the cars under my care as well. Especially if it is usually just a question of time and effort. Always feels good to fix little stuff that makes the overall car appear far cleaner... Good hit of dopamine!

Seeing that butyl GIF gives me PTSD. Lol! One of my least favorite substances in cars. Although it does work well when it is fresh.


I wholeheartedly agree on every point. I was actually thinking about your road trips when I was planning mine.

The two tricks I've found for removing butyl that work that depend on the type are pulling it away fast/hard and also using a blob of it like that GIF to quickly tab at remainders of it. Either way it sucks though.


Well, fixing this was fun.

I finally narrowed down the head unit screen flickering issue to the PCB in the screen assembly.

I purchased an ebay head unit that was 'tested and working 100%' and replaced the LCD with the aftermarket one I installed previously. Ultimately this works with some headache and time wasted as detailed below.

First I plugged in and powered on the ebay unit to see what I was working with. The faceplate and overall appearance was good but it unfortunately had some dead pixels. Next I swapped the entire screen assembly from my original unit onto the ebay unit to see if the original problem had anything to do with the body of the head unit. There was no change so I knew 100% the issue was in the screen assembly. Next I swapped the screen PCBs only, installing the ebay PCB into the original assembly (that has a new LCD) with this assembly onto the original body. And it worked! Well.. not exactly. The display was upside down.. Next I decided to swap everything around so that I essentially had the ebay unit with the new LCD. The problem with this was the bracket that holds the faceplate controls and screen did not line up with the new screen screw holes.. So I wasted time here swapping the brackets. I put it all together and it's still upside down. I took it apart, clean and retighten, same thing.

I took a break and started looking at the pictures I took during this process only to realize the screens have the same screw pattern. The difference was in the bracket.. It turns out sometime between Feb 2001 and Sept 2002 (my original) they changed the bracket and PCB to run the screen upside-down. I also noticed that the older screen assembly only worked with a wiring extension and a longer ribbon cable. So, I swapped those cables over to the new screen, mounted it to the ebay screen assembly bracket to use with the ebay PCB. What I'm going to assume is the backlight power wires, orange and black, were too short to run to the plug on the PCB so I unhooked them from the center wiring stay for more slack and taped the black wire into place. There was no binding/pinching. With that sorted I mounted the ebay screen assembly to the ebay body and tested it out. Finally I was in business. The screen seems like it's maybe a mm shifted to the right but from my vantage point it's hard to tell. I'm sure this will be an easy fix but that's a project for future me.

So in summary, the entire screen assemblies will swap right over. The PCBs are specific to the screen mounting orientation.


Complete ebay unit

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Swapping PCBs only

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Ugh

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20 year old electronics party

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Screen bracket differences

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LCD wiring differences (older up top)

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Wires swapped

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More slack

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Orange and Black wires are tight but reach

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Success

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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 Post subject: Re: 2003 BMW M5
PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:23 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1921
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
Where do you find time to do all this stuff? I haven't seen any trail bike pics lately, so maybe that's suffering from your routine. :poke: :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: 2003 BMW M5
PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2021 2:57 pm 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6541
Location: Philadelphia
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
Lol.

Well the head unit thing was after the baby went to bed the other night until midnight.

The previous post was a push to do whatever I can on a day 'off' with baby in daycare. I've had zero bike time since I've gotten back to PA but I'm hoping I can get a couple rides in next month. I'll ride in the cold though.

My downtime is watching my son, taking him to the park etc. or sleeping. My wife and I take him out a bit too. Any other time to myself I always use to get into something.

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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 Post subject: Re: 2003 BMW M5
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2021 9:54 pm 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6541
Location: Philadelphia
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
One more issue creeped up a few weeks ago. I had intermittent check rear xxx light on the cluster that alternated between turn/brake/reverse and would disappear for a week or so at a time. It got to where I lost the brake and turn signal consistently, so it was time. I feared it was the light control module but it ended up being 2nd in line for probably least desirable cause. Water got into the connector at some point and thoroughly corroded the pins. I attempted to clean up the pins on the tail light but the center was so corroded that it snapped in half. On the tail light side, there was no way I was going to remove 100% of the corrosion without ruining the plastic housing. On the harness side, I took it apart to also try and clean the terminals but didn't really put a dent in it. With it all back together including dielectric grease it was the same or worse as before. It took some strategic wiggling to get it most to work and that wasn't going to work. Mashing all the terminal ends so they would bite the pins worked for everything but the reverse lights.

The cleanest way to permanently fix this definitely involved replacing the tail light. I went with a new Hella unit since I couldn't justify the going rate of used in comparison to new. Likely the best option for the harness side would have been to get new terminals and crimp them on since there's likely enough slack. I decided to splice and solder in a good/used pigtail with epoxy lined shrink tubing. Both tail light connectors were also packed with dielectric grease.

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_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


Top
 Profile  
 
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