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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
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Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
"You can buy cheaper, but you can't buy better for the price." I hear ya on this. You've got me thinking hard about this but it might not be in the bike budget this season.

After a hand full more hours of searching I finally figured out what front end I have. 1980-1984 Suzuki PE175. So I ordered that cable to try and get it to work.

I started with the lighting coil re-wind by measuring resistance and counting the coils as I unwound the stock coil.

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I'm actually going to add a 50v (max) 10kuf cap to wire in-line with the half-waved DC to dampen the pulses and provide a mini-reserve. My LED headlight burnt out before the woods trip and I think the low rpm pulsing from the half wave rectifier made it unhappy.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
74 Yamaha DT175: brap brap, brap
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
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Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
So I'm getting pretty nerdy with this whole lighting coil thing. I really wasn't concerned with the lighting at first but this is kind of interesting.

With 12v bulbs I measured amps and voltage before and after the half wave rectifier for watts. 18-86 Watts AC from 1400-5k and 5-23 Watts DC. I measured RPM with an inductive gauge that now sits in the trip meter location. I started doing some calcs on what kind of Watt increase (AC) I could get with the new gauge wire at xx% more turns. Turns = volts and gauge = amps. At 30% more turns and 16% thicker gauge, I would get 27-130 Watts AC but still a low 7-40 Watts DC.

So then I started looking at full wave rectifiers.. I realized what while I'm rewinding the coil I could just make it a floating ground coil for the 2 AC leads to make one work. I'm going to try a cheaper 12v full wave rectifier/regulator I found on amazon with decent reviews.

I rewound the coil with 30% more coils and I tapered the winds up top in hopes they will clear the rotor. I decided to go with MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating to seal it all up. The resistance of the coil went from 0.5 to 0.7 Ohm with is roughly the same percentage of Wattage I'm hoping to gain pre-regulator ~40ish%. Fingers crossed it'll clear.

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Last weekend I had no issues banging my plate off but I did break a plastic shock cover they don't make anymore. I repaired it with my plastic welder and some mesh.

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Oh and using a PE cable and an IT speedometer didnt work.. it looked like it was working then it blew over and bent the needle..

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
74 Yamaha DT175: brap brap, brap
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2018 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1643
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
rewinding those magneto coils is impressive. I probably would have just bought a lithium battery kit and installed it on the bike to keep the light constant when the mag output is low when idling. 'Cause I'm just lazy.

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People think I'm nuts, but Matt proved it.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
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Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
I have a lot of patience for inanimate objects.. lol.

So that huge coil fit under the magnets without issue. But, it did not fit on the inside where the rotor slides over the crank. Lameee. I decided to hook up the full wave rectifier anyway. This involved floating the stock coil ground and running another wire for AC input #2. I took the same measurements as before but I'm now measuring amps through one of the two AC inputs to the rectifier. With this AC Amps went way up, AC Voltage when way down but did not equal out when you multiplied for Watts. DC Volts went up as expected but now it, along with AC volts seemed to plateau.

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I rewound the coil again and the max number of winds I could get away with was down to 17.6% more with the 16% thicker gauge wire. After installing I measured again and it got a little more strange. Idle AC Amps and Voltage improved but they taper off sooner. DC Volts however were improved 0.5-1 across the RPM range.

In summary, electricity is strange, my full wave rectifier might not working completely correct and I went from 2.7 to 4.5 to 5.5 Volts DC at Idle. I would compare amps but I'm not sure how going from measuring from a single output coil to a dual output coil affects measuring amps. I would say I might have just been better off running the original 6V equipment with an AC regulator but the stock idle AC amps were very low to begin with.

Here's the data:
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Also, I've been trying to get the bike to run better off idle by messing around with the pilot and needle clip position. It didn't seem to make much difference.. I was thinking it might be time to to the crank seals but decided to do a leak down test first. It turns out my base gasket is leaking:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQrvAMpJ8js

Good news is I have good compression:
Image

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
74 Yamaha DT175: brap brap, brap
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1643
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
Replacing the base gasket should help things out!!

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gweg_b wrote:
People think I'm nuts, but Matt proved it.

Resident Tightwad
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Screw you, Photobucket.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 12:33 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
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Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
I got the base gasket swapped out and while I was in there I:

-Raised the exhaust port around 1mm
-Cut the exhaust pipe since it was crooked going to the head, removed roughly 15mm, welded back together square
-When up to a 330 main
-Cleaned the 30 years of grease and dirt off as best I could before I rattle canned the jug, head, pipe

The first few things I found in a Yamaha Tech Bulletin. The crooked exhaust was rigged with some Home Depot b.s. previously..

The low end (off idle) still has some hesitation but the midrange and especially the top end on this thing is wayyy better. The powerband used to be really tight and kind of fizzle out around 5-6k. Now it feels like I picked up at least another 1k rpm. It literally feels like I have another gear at speed. I'm going to wait to get that needle jet (in the mail) with the needle at the suggest clip height before I do anything else.

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_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
74 Yamaha DT175: brap brap, brap
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:54 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1643
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
Was there a little carbon on the piston?

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gweg_b wrote:
People think I'm nuts, but Matt proved it.

Resident Tightwad
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Screw you, Photobucket.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6009
Location: Philly
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
Yep. I cleaned it when it was apart.

I swapped out the needle jet and took it out in the woods 2 weekends ago but I ended up getting a clogged pilot.. It was bogging pretty good down low and under load. I had no tools so I did some laps with the choke on. When I got home and took it apart, the pilot was visibly clogged. So that was easy.

My clutch is now slipping pretty good with some new found power and RPMs. What's crazy how good the bike feels cruising at 5-6k.. and getting on it from there.

I'll probably have it out a a couple more times this year just to hoon around on but it'll come apart for the clutch pack, polishing the tank back to the right color, some non-dry rotted tires and possibly the right front end.

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
74 Yamaha DT175: brap brap, brap
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 10:06 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:40 am
Posts: 1643
Location: West Point
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEi
It's amazing how a clogged pilot jet will affect the way a bike runs. You'd think it would only affect the idle, but it crosses over into the entire bottom and lower mid-range.

You could try some different oil in your clutch as a temporary cure for the slipping (unless its too far gone). Certain oils, like Silkolene or Elf, tend to increase slippage, but also result in less drag when the clutch is disengaged. I don't know what you're using, but you might try a heavier weight or just a different brand. Not the aforementioned Silkolene, though!

If you're going to swap the front end, you might consider upgrading to a disc brake. I don't know if the bike came with disc or drum, but discs seem to perform better in wet conditions.

_________________
gweg_b wrote:
People think I'm nuts, but Matt proved it.

Resident Tightwad
Image
Screw you, Photobucket.


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