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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 4:42 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1986 Olds Cutlass, 2011 Nissan Sentra SR
Not Bonneville related, but more of a general HOW THE **** do I get this out?

Im in the process of tearing down my 86 Cutlass, as some of you may or may not be aware. I was working on getting the drive shaft out, so that gweg and I could pull the engine and transmission at some point. Based on where Im currently at, the drive shaft seemed to be the next logical step. I removed the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. However, there is literally NO play in the drive shaft and I cant seem to get it to come loose. Am I missing something? Ive tried prying on it and smacking it with a BFH, as well as jacking up the differential so that the angle of the drive shaft would change, thinking that might have some impact. I havent sprayed any penetrating oil anywhere yet.

At this point, Im not married to the drive shaft. Its rusted all to hell anyway, so its not like I intend to put it back in the car.

Any thoughts on how to get this thing out, without cutting it or removing the rear end?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:55 pm 
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Yes. Torch, but you'll have to replace either the seals on the universal or the driveshaft.

Penetratin liquid soak overnight first, then try with a pry-bar against the yoke. Usually I get one side free and torque the other side out when they are really bad, like my truck was. A little heat on the yoke can help, but too much or the wrong angle will fry the rubber seals on the universal.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:05 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1986 Olds Cutlass, 2011 Nissan Sentra SR
Its all going to get replaced anyway. I didnt realize until today just how badly rusted the underside really is. May be one of those situations where I have to weld in a new floor panel or do some major repairs to the floor. The driveshaft is pretty badly rusted, so it'll get replaced anyway. So at this point, I really dont care much about the seals. The goal is really to get it out.

When you say pry against the yoke, is the point to try to get the driveshaft further into the transmission so the universal breaks free from the rear end? If Im understanding correctly, the drive shaft should move enough to break free from the diff, then be able to pull the drive shaft free from the transmission from there.

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2012 Nissan Titan SV 4x4, 5.6L V8 Pics: http://imgur.com/a/jw3Af (updated: 2/4/2015)
1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham, 5.0L V8 (307). Pics: http://imgur.com/a/1eKUG (updated: 4/21/2014)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:09 pm 
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tcolvinOH wrote:
When you say pry against the yoke, is the point to try to get the driveshaft further into the transmission so the universal breaks free from the rear end? If Im understanding correctly, the drive shaft should move enough to break free from the diff, then be able to pull the drive shaft free from the transmission from there.


Yes.

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I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!
Image

Runs:
'93 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi - Twincharged, manual, racecar! Build thread
'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, my DD
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'89 Buick LeSabre Limited - winter DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 Buick LeSabre - L67 project
'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

Doesn't run:
'87 Buick LeSabre T-type - future victim
'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 1:43 am 
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Pretty common for the U joint to just get corroded and stuck in the yolk. I've always had luck just beating the piss out of it with a bar between the U joint and yolk or BFH.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:35 am 
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I was thinking about this some more, I want to say there is a wedge tool out there you can beat in with a hammer, like how a ball joint separator works. Might have been a home-made job though. I'll see if I can find it.

_________________
I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!
Image

Runs:
'93 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi - Twincharged, manual, racecar! Build thread
'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, my DD
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'89 Buick LeSabre Limited - winter DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 Buick LeSabre - L67 project
'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

Doesn't run:
'87 Buick LeSabre T-type - future victim
'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:06 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1986 Olds Cutlass, 2011 Nissan Sentra SR
Good news - drive shaft is out.

I definitely needed a different pry bar. I picked one up at harbor freight that I could slide a piece of iron pipe over, to get more leverage. In addition, I put the rear end on jack stands, which gave me more access to pry on the drive shaft. After I was able to get the u joint to break free from the diff, I had to pry on the front of the drive shaft to get it to wiggle from the transmission, and with a little coaxing with a strap, it came right out.

Onward....

_________________
--Tim

Image
2012 Nissan Titan SV 4x4, 5.6L V8 Pics: http://imgur.com/a/jw3Af (updated: 2/4/2015)
1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham, 5.0L V8 (307). Pics: http://imgur.com/a/1eKUG (updated: 4/21/2014)


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