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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:41 pm 
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Location: St. Cloud, MN
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Any tips for putting this back together? Went to replace a fuel pressure regulator, and it turned out to be a little more work, and additional issues. The entire fuel rail had to come off to get to the torque screw, but in doing so I noticed one of the injectors was leaking and turned out to be bent.

I have to get a new injector on Monday morning, but I was playing with the fuel rail and trying to figure the best way to reassemble it. I could install the injectors into the engine first, then mount the rail on after. The other way would be to assemble the entire rail with the injectors in it, and trying to get the fuel rail set into the engine.

Does anyone have an experience on this motor or know which would be the best way? I was having some issues getting the injector to fit into the rail with new o-rings, the Fel-pro ones. I did not want to lube them up in case I would contaminate the injector or something similar.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:45 pm 
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I can't say for that particular engine but on the Bonneville I found it easier/more convenient to have injectors in the rail then pop it on.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:01 pm 
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On the Bonne you have to put the injectors in first, as it's impossible to get the clips in while on the engine. Generally it's easier this way, and the retaining clips set the depth.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:05 am 
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Also, put some new motor oil onto the injector O-rings. That'll help them set more easily.

I'd assemble the rail along with the injectors, then slap the whole shebang into the motor. Have you checked the repository of everything Cavalier at jbody.org?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:19 am 
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I agree to definitely lube the O-rings. Not doing so will make installation dang near impossible and will likely will result in a ripped or twisted O-ring resulting in either a fuel or vacuum leak.

Not to sure though as to injectors in rail or engine in first, but I would think it likely has clips on the injectors like the Bonnevilles do, so I would try to put them in the rail first and install the clips on them then insert it carefully into the engine.

One question though.... I am really curious as to how an injector can be bent?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:34 am 
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:stupid:

I'm not sure either. They're plastic, so I would think it would crack? Unless it got so hot it warped or something, which leads me to ask how/why it would've gotten that hot....

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:17 am 
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It does have the clips like on our Bonneville, but they can be put back in easily after the rail has been reinstalled which is why I was at a loss.

You would think it would crack since it is mostly plastic, but the inside is a metal tube. The bottom part of the injector that goes into the engine has a 10 degree bend in it, so it is not straight which is where it is leaking fuel. I will post a picture in the morning for you to see. I was pretty amazed by it myself. I have no idea how it happened.

The car is my fiance's best friend's car, and from what I was told her idiot boyfriend tried to replace the FPR to no avail, so she literally begged me to do it for her. When I started out, I noticed the fuel rail is missing at least one bolt, so who knows what he did. I had to let her take my Bonneville when I noticed the injector was bad, and now I have to take Amber to work in the morning, get to a JY, and juggle the contractors I have coming out it the morning. I am excited.

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2009 Ford Flex 63K[/u] My DD & super utilitarian vehicle that we call the White Bus.
2006 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe 73k; Wife's hot rod & highway ride.
SOLD: 2002 Bonneville SLE; 230K, Mods: Solid hockey puck front mount, Intense FWI intake, 180 degree thermostat, Magna Flow high-flow cat, ZZP O2 emulator: Nothing major but maintenance and what it takes to keep the dash lights off and the mileage up..
2004 Bonneville SLE 201k, Pearl White (Old man's ride)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:26 am 
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Here is a picture the said fuel injector. I noticed today that the injector next to this one is leaking too, so I am thinking it would be easier to by an entire assembly at the JY rather than try to piece is all back together.

Thoughts? Anyone know how to disconnect the fuel rail? Here is a picture on that connection.

Image

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2009 Ford Flex 63K[/u] My DD & super utilitarian vehicle that we call the White Bus.
2006 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe 73k; Wife's hot rod & highway ride.
SOLD: 2002 Bonneville SLE; 230K, Mods: Solid hockey puck front mount, Intense FWI intake, 180 degree thermostat, Magna Flow high-flow cat, ZZP O2 emulator: Nothing major but maintenance and what it takes to keep the dash lights off and the mileage up..
2004 Bonneville SLE 201k, Pearl White (Old man's ride)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:41 am 
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You need a tool like these:
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I bought a set at NAPA for $12, even with the little plastic holder pictured.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Got it done earlier today. Ended up finding a single injector from a yard. Replaced all the o-rings that go into the block, using a tiny amount of oil to get them to set. I assembled the entire rail, and set it into the head. I got some new fuel rail bolts. It runs a lot better, and I am glad to have it gone.

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2009 Ford Flex 63K[/u] My DD & super utilitarian vehicle that we call the White Bus.
2006 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe 73k; Wife's hot rod & highway ride.
SOLD: 2002 Bonneville SLE; 230K, Mods: Solid hockey puck front mount, Intense FWI intake, 180 degree thermostat, Magna Flow high-flow cat, ZZP O2 emulator: Nothing major but maintenance and what it takes to keep the dash lights off and the mileage up..
2004 Bonneville SLE 201k, Pearl White (Old man's ride)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 7:33 pm 
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Glad you got it worked out. For future reference for yourself and others who stumble across this thread, when lubricating o-rings (particularly inj o-rings) try to avoid petroleum based lube and use a water soluble lube such as KY. I know that everyone has done it, mechanics included, and will likely continue to do so but that certainly doesn't make the practice any better for o-ring longevity. :)

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