The new and improved hockey puck mount
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:34 pm
After I replaced my motor mount with a “solid” hockey puck mount (nothing wrong with that mount I just like a little more give in my drive train) I started work on a semisolid OE style mount. First I cut the bad motor mount so that I could use the top half of the old mount in the construction of my new mount. 
This is what’s inside an OEM mount. 
This is the only piece of the OEM mount I am using.
I then cut a piece of tubing that was 2 ¼ inches long with an ID of 3 inches and an OD of 3 ¾ inches. I also cut three pieces of solid round stock 3 inches in diameter, two of which were ¼ inches long and one that was ½ inches long. Then I drilled a ½ inch hole in the center of the two ¼ inch discs, and in the center of two hockey pucks.
I then sanded the out sides of the ¼ inch disks keeping them round so they would easily move inside the 3 inch pipe.
This is how the mount will sit when it’s completed.
The ½ inch disk is a spacer I used while welding one of the ¼ inch disks to the inside of the 3 inch pipe a ½ inch from the bottom of the pipe. I forgot to take a picture of that part. I then welded a 12mm nut onto the end of a 5 inch long piece if 12 x 1.75 threaded rode. Then I welded the bottom side of the nut onto the last ¼ inch disk through the ½ inch hole, so I ended up with a threaded rode with a 3 inch washer welded to the end of it. I then welded the top of the OEM mount to the top of the 3 inch pipe with one hockey puck inside.
The way I designed this mount the engine and transmission can still move slightly in both directions the push and pull, but the mount will not be able to pull through like an OEM mount.
I still have to pain the mount and yes it is a little heavier then an OEM mount weighing in at just under 6lbs.
I’m not sure when or if I am going to put this on my own car. Maybe I will right before I get another alignment so when I drop the sub frame I can re align my tires.
This is what’s inside an OEM mount. This is the only piece of the OEM mount I am using.I then cut a piece of tubing that was 2 ¼ inches long with an ID of 3 inches and an OD of 3 ¾ inches. I also cut three pieces of solid round stock 3 inches in diameter, two of which were ¼ inches long and one that was ½ inches long. Then I drilled a ½ inch hole in the center of the two ¼ inch discs, and in the center of two hockey pucks.
I then sanded the out sides of the ¼ inch disks keeping them round so they would easily move inside the 3 inch pipe.
This is how the mount will sit when it’s completed. The ½ inch disk is a spacer I used while welding one of the ¼ inch disks to the inside of the 3 inch pipe a ½ inch from the bottom of the pipe. I forgot to take a picture of that part. I then welded a 12mm nut onto the end of a 5 inch long piece if 12 x 1.75 threaded rode. Then I welded the bottom side of the nut onto the last ¼ inch disk through the ½ inch hole, so I ended up with a threaded rode with a 3 inch washer welded to the end of it. I then welded the top of the OEM mount to the top of the 3 inch pipe with one hockey puck inside.
The way I designed this mount the engine and transmission can still move slightly in both directions the push and pull, but the mount will not be able to pull through like an OEM mount.
I still have to pain the mount and yes it is a little heavier then an OEM mount weighing in at just under 6lbs. I’m not sure when or if I am going to put this on my own car. Maybe I will right before I get another alignment so when I drop the sub frame I can re align my tires.