iPod hookup to original radio?

[Sirhc]

I dont have the money to get my AVH-P4200DVD HU yet and being a college student, money is kinda scarce.. So, is there anything out there to just hookup an iPod to the existing radio? Blank CDs add up real quick and I gotta save as much as I can til my refund check comes in .. Lol

[lowrider0308]

http://pac-audio.com/default.aspx

I have installed an iPod kit in my Silverado and in my sisters G6. I'm not sure how much support they have for older vehicles though.

[00Beast]

They don't make the iSimple kit for Bonnevilles. I checked, lol.

Do you have a CD changer? If so, there's a cheap way to wire in an Aux-in port. If not, it's a little more work.

[human]

I recently installed a hard wired FM modulator in my Bonneville, through which I can play my iPod through the FM radio with no signal interference. The device connects between the antenna and the radio and to a 12-volt power source. I connected the red power lead to a switched power source so the modulator would turn on and off with the ignition switch and not drain the battery. The ground lead I screwed down under one of the screws that secures the radio in its bay in the dash.

The device has two female RCA plugs for audio input. I simply connected an audio cable with RCA plugs on one end and a male headphone plug on the other. To listen to the iPod, I just plug the cable into the iPod's headphone socket and tune the radio to the frequency to which the modulator is set (I use 87.7 Mhz, which is the lowest setting on a Delco radio). It blocks outside FM signals, so there's no interference from local stations. I've had this setup for about a week and it works well. I may add a power switch so I can turn the modulator off because it does slightly reduce FM reception when I'm listening to the radio. I can't control the iPod through the radio, but it's a simple and cost effective solution that is far more satisfactory than using a cassette adapter, which is what I did before.

So what did this setup cost me? I bought everything on eBay and it ran me a whopping $10.86. The modulator itself was $9.87 with free shipping and the cable was 99 cents with free shipping from Hong Kong. The only complication to this plan is that GM radios use a slightly smaller than standard antenna plug, so you'll need a pair of adapters, one with a standard male plug and a GM female plug and one with a standard female plug and a GM male plug. I already had a set of these, so I didn't have that expense. The adapters are readily available on ebay in the $9 to $10, maybe less if you shop around. So with the adapters, this entire setup could be had for just under $20.

[zigger21]

I recently installed a hard wired FM modulator in my Bonneville, through which I can play my iPod through the FM radio with no signal interference. The device connects between the antenna and the radio and to a 12-volt power source. I connected the red power lead to a switched power source so the modulator would turn on and off with the ignition switch and not drain the battery. The ground lead I screwed down under one of the screws that secures the radio in its bay in the dash.

The device has two female RCA plugs for audio input. I simply connected an audio cable with RCA plugs on one end and a male headphone plug on the other. To listen to the iPod, I just plug the cable into the iPod's headphone socket and tune the radio to the frequency to which the modulator is set (I use 87.7 Mhz, which is the lowest setting on a Delco radio). It blocks outside FM signals, so there's no interference from local stations. I've had this setup for about a week and it works well. I may add a power switch so I can turn the modulator off because it does slightly reduce FM reception when I'm listening to the radio. I can't control the iPod through the radio, but it's a simple and cost effective solution that is far more satisfactory than using a cassette adapter, which is what I did before.

So what did this setup cost me? I bought everything on eBay and it ran me a whopping $10.86. The modulator itself was $9.87 with free shipping and the cable was 99 cents with free shipping from Hong Kong. The only complication to this plan is that GM radios use a slightly smaller than standard antenna plug, so you'll need a pair of adapters, one with a standard male plug and a GM female plug and one with a standard female plug and a GM male plug. I already had a set of these, so I didn't have that expense. The adapters are readily available on ebay in the $9 to $10, maybe less if you shop around. So with the adapters, this entire setup could be had for just under $20.

I agree with Human there are Monster Ipod FM modulators that make the Ipod sound as clear as it would if it was USB to the radio. The only disadvantage is that you have to run your Ipod with your hands and not having the ability to run it from the head unit. Hope this helps and Take Care.

[Bugsi]

I connected the red power lead to a switched power source so the modulator would turn on and off with the ignition switch and not drain the battery.

There's no harm in doing that, as it does guarantee that the device will not draw *any* current when the car is off. But just for a realistic counterpoint; you could likely power the device from your car battery permanently without the current drain of the device ever affecting the battery's starting power.

Car batteries have reserve capacities measured in minutes that they can sustain a 25-ampere load before the battery voltage drops to 10.5 volts. Typical reserve capacities of good batteries are on the order of 135 minutes. A typical solid state electronic device will draw a few milliamperes *maximum*, so little that the time to draw down to 10.5 volts easily exceeds a calendar year, during which other discharge effects of lead-acid cells would discharge the battery faster. —Which basically means the drain effect of a few small microelectronic devices is, for practical purposes, insignificant in modern vehicles. My Garmin GPS unit is hardwired to constant power in my Bonneville, and I always leave the thing on.

To be clear: There is absolutely no harm in not powering unneeded devices when not in use, clearly that prevents any drain at all from occurring. I just want to clear up that many devices don't actually pose a risk of realistically discharging a car battery, and can be left powered full time with no ill effects if desired.

[John Deere Boy]

This is the "little more work" method 00Beast mentioned. Take the radio apart, cut the signal wires going from the CD player to the amp, wire them into a DPDT relay, and wire in your new aux input to the other 2 poles of the relay. Then mount a switch somewhere to trigger the relay. The radio will think it's playing the CD, but you'll hear the mp3 player. Sound quality is as good as your mp3 player can make. I don't know if anyone has tried this with a 2000+ radio. Total cost for me was $10 for the relay at radioshack.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 13&t=10585

[00Beast]

Actually, this is what I was talking about: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=318&p=13780

[zigger21]

This is the "little more work" method 00Beast mentioned. Take the radio apart, cut the signal wires going from the CD player to the amp, wire them into a DPDT relay, and wire in your new aux input to the other 2 poles of the relay. Then mount a switch somewhere to trigger the relay. The radio will think it's playing the CD, but you'll hear the mp3 player. Sound quality is as good as your mp3 player can make. I don't know if anyone has tried this with a 2000+ radio. Total cost for me was $10 for the relay at radioshack.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 13&t=10585

Very, very nice work. Never thought of doing that. Once again great job

[human]

True, but I just like to have things turned off when not in use. I'm also planning to install a manual power switch to the modulator to help reduce some minor interference with broadcast FM reception. Right now, I'm trying to decide where to locate the switch. On a recent trip to the junkyard, I got an extra lower dash panel and center console insert (where the optional power seat controls go) so I can drill a hole for the switch and still have a backup panel so I can put it back to "original" condition.

I connected the red power lead to a switched power source so the modulator would turn on and off with the ignition switch and not drain the battery.

There's no harm in doing that, as it does guarantee that the device will not draw *any* current when the car is off. But just for a realistic counterpoint; you could likely power the device from your car battery permanently without the current drain of the device ever affecting the battery's starting power.

[John Deere Boy]

True, but I just like to have things turned off when not in use. I'm also planning to install a manual power switch to the modulator to help reduce some minor interference with broadcast FM reception. Right now, I'm trying to decide where to locate the switch. On a recent trip to the junkyard, I got an extra lower dash panel and center console insert (where the optional power seat controls go) so I can drill a hole for the switch and still have a backup panel so I can put it back to "original" condition.

Hey you can do one better than that...get the actual power seat buttons and use the Left seat/Right seat sliding selector as your switch. That's what i did to switch the relay in my radio since i don't have the AL7 seats either. That way it looks 100% stock. The button illumination works too if you tie it into the existing harness for the traction control/performance shift button pod.

Also, there are LED's under the "L" and "R" that you could make light up to indicate the modulator is active, but i didn't go that far myself.

[human]

That's an interesting idea, but I've decided to go for something a little simpler. I just ordered a little black push button switch (no LED) that will mount flush and only requires a half-inch hole. After a lot of consideration, I've decided to mount it on the console panel. It should be fairly unobtrusive, just a simple, unmarked black button.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... K:MEWAX:IT

Hey you can do one better than that...get the actual power seat buttons and use the Left seat/Right seat sliding selector as your switch. That's what i did to switch the relay in my radio since i don't have the AL7 seats either. That way it looks 100% stock. The button illumination works too if you tie it into the existing harness for the traction control/performance shift button pod.

Also, there are LED's under the "L" and "R" that you could make light up to indicate the modulator is active, but i didn't go that far myself.

[human]

I finally got everything together and put the switch in today. Instead of putting it into the console, I put it in the lower dash panel, directly below the radio. It just made better sense because I wouldn't have to fish wires through the console. I did, however, put enough slack in the wires that I can take the panel off and set it up on top of the dash to remove the radio without having to remove the switch. The hardest part was drilling a hole in the panel because I didn't have a half-inch bit. I ended up using my biggest bit and then carefully reamed out the hole with my pocket knife until the switch fit into it. The little push-button switch fit great and totally looks like it belongs there. Very neat and unobtrusive. The best part is that my FM reception is much improved when I'm not listening to the iPod.

On my last trip to the junkyard, I picked up a spare lower dash panel that was actually in better condition than the one in my car. Since mine already had some scratches, it was elected to go under the drill. I'll put the other panel aside and have it whenever I'm ready to remove the modulator.