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im woundering how to get good grip at the 1/4 mile...im thingking of getting some work done to bonnie over the winter and with rear wheel drive cars do a burnout and the crown vic i had launch at 1100 rpm and when the light gose green floor it and the 4.6 wouldent squeel wile it was speeding up...now what would be a good rpm to launch bonnie at and when the light turns green should a person floor it or slowy speed up ?...and i mean slicks to help aswell and say the car has rockers / valve springs / push rods / fwi / pcu work / 3.4 sc puly / and the slicks...im not going to be doing any trans work so with out that would there be a point to upgrade the engine...and from what i have been reading it would not be good doing a one wheel burnout

sorry for it being thrown all in one its late and i just got home from 11 hours at work

Just dump the clutch at 4000 rpm and you should be fine.

...dumb qustion how would u dump the clutch with a auto?

If you plan on doing the modifications listed above, and track racing, you will be putting money into the transmission, whether you plan to or not. The only way to "drop the clutch" as the previous poster cleverly pointed out, is to rev it in neutral, and drop it in to drive. If you do this, however, it will look retarded, sound retarded, and break retarded amounts of parts. Also, you are correct regarding the one wheel burnouts. One wheel burnouts are a one way ticket to your car coming home on a flat bed, and your differential coming home in a plastic bag.

how much would somebody be lookin to spend on trans parts...and i dont have the know how to work on it my self nore the tools so i would have to take it to a shop to get it done

Don't do a neutral bomb on your car. You'll kill it.

You need to find the proper RPM to launch at that best suits your car and your tires. All are different. Technique after power-braking at that RPM is a firm steady ROLL on the throttle, but again, that depends on you, the track conditions, tires, etc, and every car/driver varies.

Find your technique and stick with it.

I think a good place to start is around 2k. That's where I find launching my SSEi is best at. Power-braking around 2000rpm and then slowly getting on the throttle. You want to roll into the throttle slow enough that you don't lose traction but not give up any time either. It's tricky and usually takes a few attempts to get close.

But as mentioned it varies by car, driver, conditions etc. I've had to relearn how to launch anytime something changes.

Ditto, 2000rpm was the best for myself as well. It might be different now that I have the rockers...

I rev mine till I feel the TC stop slipping, then quickly roll in. When you're doing a burnout in the water box (which is a good idea) make sure you set the parking brake and turn the steering wheel a little to make sure both wheels are spinning, then dump the parking brake and roll out. Pre-Stage, roll ahead, stage, then rev, when the light turns green, roll in as quickly as you can, and give it hell.

If you're not doing anything else to the trans, make sure you dump the fluid, replace the filter, and Install a shift kit while you're in there. I like the Intense shift kit from www.intense-racing.com .

00Beast wrote:When you're doing a burnout in the water box (which is a good idea)

Everything I know about running on street tires tells me otherwise. Drive around the burnout box and just stage. At worst, one could squeal the tires briefly to get any debris off.

Well, he did mention slicks. Plus, both times I went to the track I did big burnouts, and they most definitely didn't hurt. The track prep the second time did, tho.

Ah, I missed that part. With street tires, the burnouts likely didn't hurt your ET, but they probably hurt your treadwear more than they had to

Yeah, street tires it is normally recommended that you avoid the waterbox, and spin the tires for a quick sec in the prestage area to clean them off. Anything else is purely show.

00Beast wrote:I rev mine till I feel the TC stop slipping, then quickly roll in. When you're doing a burnout in the water box (which is a good idea) make sure you set the parking brake and turn the steering wheel a little to make sure both wheels are spinning, then dump the parking brake and roll out. Pre-Stage, roll ahead, stage, then rev, when the light turns green, roll in as quickly as you can, and give it hell.

If you're not doing anything else to the trans, make sure you dump the fluid, replace the filter, and Install a shift kit while you're in there. I like the Intense shift kit from http://www.intense-racing.com .

i was thinking about it and what the hey if im gunna replace the fluid why not throw in a 3rd gen lsd and a shift kit from intense

As far as I know, Intense doesn't sell LSD's anymore.

http://www.intense-racing.com/gen3lsd/gen3.html

it still has the pricing at the bottom of that page...if they dont where would u prder one from ?

1999_pontiac_ssei wrote:http://www.intense-racing.com/gen3lsd/gen3.html

it still has the pricing at the bottom of that page...if they dont where would u prder one from ?

guss im mistaken speaking withsome one there today in a email buddy said they stop having large orders for them and the trans guy left so they stopped selling them