The 2K's repair progress

[willwren]

Oh Paul of little faith....I have a magic chemical coating for those plugs and threads that will prevent corrosion. In spite of that, the additives in the proper coolant Matt is running will prevent it as well.

All fasteners holding the SC and accessories on/together will be stainless, as well as the ones holding it to the LIM.

[2000Silverbullet]

The SilverBullet is jealous! I can feel it's internals craving a rematch.

What revelations will the new year hold. THAT is the question.

Careful when you bend over your new workbench that the vise doesn't clamp down on your vitals.

[willwren]

Holy horrible outlet casting, Batman!

The inlet (see the previous page of this topic) was worse than average, but the outlet is the worst I've seen on an M90 Gen3. I didn't notice it yesterday, but today I'll be cutting into it, so I poked around a bit.

Click on this and look carefully:
http://www.3800supercharger.net/gen31.jpg
(this is from my supercharger website).

That's a Gen3 M62. Notice even though the casting is rough, the outlet is rounded off all the way around the outlet. Sharp edges and abrupt turns tend to heat up and create hot spots, further increasing the temperature of the boost charge. Rounded edges promote better flow and reduce heat.

I don't have pictures of Matt's yet, but they'll be up tonight. Just remember this old Gen3 M62 for reference. Most M90's I've seen are BETTER than the Gen3 M62, but Matt's is as bad as the average Gen2 M62 (refer to http://www.3800supercharger.net/p&p.html for examples of both, and a preview of what's about to happen to Matt's).

The bottom line is that this supercharger was NOT living up to expectations in any way other than rotor coating life, and there'll be more to gain than the average supercharger when the work is done by a pretty big margin. MUCH room for improvement in both flow AND heat management.

As you look over that page (link above), you can see a clear progression of improvement in the outlet of the Eaton superchargers over time and model changes. You can also compare the bolt boss locations on either side of the outlet....which will be changing soon on Matt's too.

[myfirstbonnie]

Anticipating the pictures!

[willwren]

FYI, I'm doing more on the prep and technical/precision side, but saving the technical/difficult stuff and reassembly for Tyler. He's eager to learn about this stuff.

[willwren]

First of all, notice how the M62 bolt bosses (machined off for my intercooler clearance, but still visible somewhat) are to each side of the outlet. ON the M90, the outlet was larger, but they couldn't move the bolts farther outward, so the threaded bosses protrude into the outlet area. Keep in mind the M90 Gen V fixed this problem with a redesign of the mating flange. If you look at the outlet of a Gen V, you'll see what I mean:




They're gone now (thanks to Lisa for the extra hands on this):


Notice here on the outlet how sharp the outer perimeter edge is? The inside is even worse:




Left side roughed in, right left alone for comparison:


While a Mill would be the ideal tool here, you really need a CNC tool to do it. The Mills I have at work are not CNC, and I'm a master with a die grinder, so I choose this method. Finish work will be with a Dremel. If you're concerned about the much shorter bolt bosses, fear not. Tyler will be installing steel thread inserts into those two holes. There are a couple superchargers from my shop running on other cars here with that setup already. Pdad's and Haro's come to mind.

Now for some 'before' pics of the inlet (which will be changing drastically in terms of inlet to casting alignment and roughness):







Back to making chips.......

[tjlovell15]

Yes, I am very eager to start working on the supercharger

[Sadden]

Keep em coming

[willwren]

Keep em coming

Ok, but this is the last batch for tonight. I smell dinner cooking, and I have to do the dishes in the parts washer right after that.


The outlet is roughed in entirely, ready for finish work (and Tyler's steel thread inserts in two holes):


On to the inlet. The first step was blowing away the inlet bore misalignment (Eaton's fault) with a die grinder. Bit selection is critical so you don't gouge the inlet. You can see the misalignment for the last time here:


After roughing it in with the die grinder, and knocking down the high spots and casting flaws with the same tool, this becomes the tool of choice:

(I'll actually do finish work with a finer grit flap sander in the die grinder with far higher RPM's, then finish off with a dremel)

The misalignment from Eaton is gone, and the inlet is now considered 'roughed in' near the throttle body, but more work needs to be done farther into the inlet and beyond the bypass inlet:






MATT:
The inlet was slightly enlarged after fixing this inlet. To prevent inlet turbulence from 'letoff' on the trailing edge of the base of the throttle body into the slightly larger bore, if you round off the outlet of the TB bore by about .050-.075", the transition will be much smoother. I'd do it with a half-round file, then finish with finer and finer wet/dry paper. Protect the throttle shaft while you do this.

[2000Silverbullet]

A good evenings work. I can hear the sucking sounds already. Oh wait, that's just Bill sucking on his wheat beer after dinner. LOL
Still a fair amount of polishing work left to do.

[Sadden]

Nice.
I love seeing your P/P Jobs come together

[myfirstbonnie]

Would it be best to do the TB when we do the final assembly? There is no problem if it would be best to do it when both pieces are here.

[willwren]

You won't be able to 'feel' the lip when they're mated TB too deep and the throttle plate is in the way), and it's impossible to see it without running a borescope down through the vacuum tree hole. You might as well do it whenever, and just roll that sharp edge off a little.

[myfirstbonnie]

Ok, will do since I am stuck without a cam.

[willwren]

See the two holes here that look like eyeballs with teh bypass as the mouth? We're about to rape them in the worst way. These holes are drilled in at the factory after casting so when the needle bearings are pressed in, they don't compress air behind them and try to pop out. They're simply vents:



Closeup:


Surgeon's tools:

(L-R: "R" drill, 1/8-27 NPT tap, 2 homemade extended taps for the M90, and homemade grease extension with zerk)

After drilling, you can see the bearings. It's very important not to drill or tap into these bearings. If you induce a burr or split, they won't come out afterwards, and you just junked your supercharger:


After tapping the holes, I inserted my homemade extension, and forced the bearings out with grease pressure:






Pretty slick, huh? I actually have a slide hammer made for this purpose, but I have yet to find a supercharger it will work on. It typically destroys the rolled lip on the bearing and I go back to the grease method.



After the bearings came out, I started cleaning up some of the external surfaces in prep for coating. See this sharp casting edge? It's bad for coating, and will cause premature wear and flaking:


Here's some examples of similar edges smoothed out:






After that, I was bored (in spite of working a full shift today, and re-seeding half my lawn when Dex and I got home), so I got to work on the outlet again. For reference, this is where I left it yesterday (roughed in):


And this is where it is now:


I'm not really happy with the 'ripples', but I had no choice due to the very poor outlet casting quality. The only alternative would have been to remove a TON more material, and that's not a wise choice. Ultimately, the ripples will do nothing to harm performance, they just don't show any bling in a picture like this. The smooth surface is intended to prevent EGR/PCV buildup, reduce sharp turns or small bumps (from the casting), that can build heat under compression with hot air ripping by, and help guide the air cleanly out of the outlet.

That's all for tonight. Gotta go cook some chow.

[myfirstbonnie]

Did the bearings come out easy or did they have a little velocity? It's looking good so far.

[willwren]

I've learned to stuff a rag in the housing. The sneak out slowly, and the last squirt sends them out pretty good. You hear a 'tink', pull out the rag, toss the bearing, and go after the other one. One of my helpers got a nice grease stain on her sweater once (Linda at work) where the term 'gicky' was invented shortly thereafter.

[myfirstbonnie]

As of yesterday, almost all of my parts are ordered. The ones from Intense will be here next week. I will be getting the cam looked at on Monday and hopefully I won't have to get a new one, but as my luck has gone this far it will not surprise me if I leave with a boat anchor.

[Jrs3800]

No it won't be a Boat Anchor... It will be a Nice Trophy A Little expensive but still really nice...lol

[myfirstbonnie]

Today's progress was not much. I did not get down to deal with the cam issue, but will try again tomorrow. Remaining parts are on their way from Intense and are due here on Wed. Today's goal was to get the engine bay cleaned up and the transmission cooler connected so it by-passed the radiator. I thought I would take a few pictures to show where I am at.

Engine bay as it sits (notice the freshly rebuilt transmission with less than 2k on it):



Signs of an axle with a short life. This will be replaced before the engine goes back in.



Now, the engine. The front cover and water pump are not bolted on because it is missing a cam.




The knock sensor cover will come off yet to install the false knock kit coming from Intense.