Ignition Switch

[TenGHz]

My car has done something weird a few times now, and I'd figured I'd see what you all thought.

I go to start my car and I turn the key. The day time running lights turn on, but it doesn't even try turning over. I turn the key off and try again, and it fires right up. I've seen cars with bad starters and they usually click in some way, but, just doesn't try cranking. This isn't doing even that, it's like the connection in the ignition switch isn't making contact or something...? Is this a common problem? Is this a VATS issue? I don't see the security light start flashing when I try starting it. When it did it, I just got done with a car wash, but I don't think the first time it happened was after a wash.

Any thoughts? Everything else seems to work fine, and once it tries cranking it fires right up like it always has...

[bill buttermore]

To check this problem out, connect a test light with a bulb that will pull a few amps like a tail lamp bulb, between the small wire connection on the starter and ground. Place the bulb where you can see it from the driver's seat, then turn the key to start. If the bulb lights every time, the problem is not the ignition switch or the wiring between the switch and the starter.

Here are instructions for how to make your own test light, lifted from another post:

Here is a picture of one of my test lights. You need a length of lamp cord (16-18 gauge wire), a plastic lid from a spray paint can, a stop light bulb, and (optional) soldering stuff.

Drill a hole in the lid and run the wires through it. If you use one of the newer push-in bulbs, you can just bend the wires out from the base and twist one conductor from the lamp cord onto each. Pull the bulb against the cap without letting the wires touch and tie an overhand knot in the cord to act as a strain relief. Strip the ends of the wires and you are good to go. I solder the connections and tin the ends of the wires, then flatten them out and file them, so they will fit into electrical connectors, but just the bare wire will work fine too. The plastic cap protects the bulb, and if you use a translucent cap, makes the light easier to see. If you use long wires, you can run the lamp up to where you can see it eliminating the need for a helper.

[Archon]

If Bill's test shows that it is not getting power, you could have a bad ignition switch. There is a TSB for the 00 & 01s stating that plastic particles interfere with the switch contacts. Also, check the connections for fuse #19 in the under-hood fuse block. That is what caused 2000SilverBullet's no start problem, but he had other symptoms, also.

[TenGHz]

Well, she starts fine 99% of the time. I will try this if it fails completely at some point. The thing is it's so intermittent that it's hard to find...

Cool trick with the test light, Bill.

Thanks for the suggestions.