Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)
Tightened up the cornering feel and sharpened the response. Noticeably less lean in turns. Not as much as a larger sway bar but a cheap and quick mod that takes it part way.
I used Suspension Energy 9.8120R end links on all four corners. Polyeurethane bushings with larger diameter (3/8") link bolt.
The rear was a breeze and no alterations were required. A simple bolt on.
The front was a bit trickier. I had to trim the metal spacers 1/4" in order to get the nut started but it fits perfectly otherwise.
The OEM links with soft rubber bushings, plastic spacers, 5/16" bolts are in the parts bin.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Mounting locations will vary from one vehicle to another.
The bolt can be installed with the threaded end up or down.
Washers must cup toward the bushings. The bushing nipple
is intended to center the end link assembly in the sway bar
and control arm mounting points. Have the vehicle at ride
height when installing end links for proper seating of
bushings. Use a 9/16†wrench and rachet to tighten the
assembly until the bushings start to bulge slightly (Do not
grease or over tighten!). Check all clearances around
brake lines, tie rods, and control arms with a full turn of the
wheels to the left and right.
Last edited by golfyeti on Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark The Familyman's Trans-Am
Intense 3.4 MPS, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, copper NGKs TR55's, MSD wires, MSD coils, BWD ICM, MagnaFlow High Flow Cat, drilled 180 'stat, solid front mount, Monroe Max Air rear shocks, Moog rear mounts, Moog suspension bushings, cleared front corners, 190,000 miles
Just did my fronts as well - you either need to take 1/4 inch off the spacer or apply a pry bar to keep everything in place to thread the nut.
Haven't done the rear yet - would be nice if someone made a larger aftermarket bar.
_________________________________________________________________
2001 SSEi - NEW MODS in L32 - FWI, colder plugs, 180 t-stat, 3.5 pulley, 1.95 rockers, TOG headers and just about every Intense Trans upgrades they recommended.
OLD MODS in L67 - include FWI, colder plugs (Autolites), 180 t-stat, 3.4 pulley and 1.95 rockers.
(Previously owned '95 SSEi, RIP)
67goat wrote:JHaven't done the rear yet - would be nice if someone made a larger aftermarket bar.
The GXP bars are an upgrade.
Boosty - You may have just made my day Do you happen to know the diameter? (doubt the dealer could look up the diameter)
_________________________________________________________________
2001 SSEi - NEW MODS in L32 - FWI, colder plugs, 180 t-stat, 3.5 pulley, 1.95 rockers, TOG headers and just about every Intense Trans upgrades they recommended.
OLD MODS in L67 - include FWI, colder plugs (Autolites), 180 t-stat, 3.4 pulley and 1.95 rockers.
(Previously owned '95 SSEi, RIP)
1993 sle wrote:i have a set ( as well as the entire GXP suspension) in the garage. I can get you a measurement
Sweet - let me know. I think the SSEi stock size is only about 20 mm.
_________________________________________________________________
2001 SSEi - NEW MODS in L32 - FWI, colder plugs, 180 t-stat, 3.5 pulley, 1.95 rockers, TOG headers and just about every Intense Trans upgrades they recommended.
OLD MODS in L67 - include FWI, colder plugs (Autolites), 180 t-stat, 3.4 pulley and 1.95 rockers.
(Previously owned '95 SSEi, RIP)
19 mm to be precise.
You have to be careful when adjusting spring rates and sway bar size front to rear ratios to help keep a neutral cornering attitude and also to satisfy the stabilitrak settings.
There is a possibility that going to a larger rear bar will create more oversteer if you don't stiffen up the front equally at the same time.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
That's a pretty good point. I think around a 24 to 25 mm bar in back would do wonders on our cars - in stock form they have quite a bit of understeer (Factory's intent). Anything more proportionately (30 front 25 rear) I'd guess would probably start causing some mild oversteer. Not sure how the computer control would be affected - what exactly does it control? braking differential maybe? I don't think we have valving in the struts that would be affected by that do we?
_________________________________________________________________
2001 SSEi - NEW MODS in L32 - FWI, colder plugs, 180 t-stat, 3.5 pulley, 1.95 rockers, TOG headers and just about every Intense Trans upgrades they recommended.
OLD MODS in L67 - include FWI, colder plugs (Autolites), 180 t-stat, 3.4 pulley and 1.95 rockers.
(Previously owned '95 SSEi, RIP)
I believe you need to take a measurement of the distance between the sway endlink hole to the hole in the control arm, with the sway bar arm directly parallel to the control arm drilled hole angle.
Not sure if that makes perfect sense But for the front, its usually pretty simple and just consists of the the distance between them with the sway bar parallel with the ground.
Otherwise of course, someone could always just post the part number.
John Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
Recently I did some of this work and we should keep in mind that the technical names are End Links are at the ends of the sway bar and the Sway Bar Bushings are the bushings that are held to the subframe by a U bracket with the bar passing through them. If we use the wrong term at the countrer, we could order the wrong item. This almost happened to me.