Bondo?

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Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

Just came across this today. I was sanding part of the rear drivers side door to re-paint it and then wham, the sanding block went through. It was rusted from the inside out. I pulled some of the metal out with pliers. Should I fill with bondo?

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Re: Bondo?

Post by PLAGUE PHANTOM »

Your better off replacing the door.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

I was also going through that scenario too. I can pick up one around here from a junkyard for about $75-100.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by harofreak00 »

The chances of finding a door that doesn't have rust in that same spot is pretty unlikely. Even the 2000+ have the same problem.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

That is true. Ill just try to bondo it. Ill buy a gallon for $15 and get some hardener. Cant really make it any worse. Ill check out some "how to" vids.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by sandrock »

You don't want to bondo that. Bondo will hold moisture and over time will rust away what is surrounding it. And since it's in an area that will jostle around a lot, a glob of bondo is not choice.

Best option is to at least look for a door that's in good shape.
2nd best option is to look for a door with at the very least a good door skin.
3rd best option is to patch weld new metal then bondo on top of that.

If you MUST fill it, use JB-Weld stick putty. Unlike bondo, it won't hold moisture. And unlike bondo, it isn't flexible so you will need to prep the area GOOD so it will get a good bite when it cures. It sands easy enough. Bondo on top of that for finishing.

FWIW, bondo or any body filler for that matter is only good for 1/4" buildup. Best at 1/16th-1/8th range.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 00Beast »

Bondo's gonna crack and fall off. Your best bet is to get some sheet metal and fix it properly. Anything else isn't gonna last.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by PLAGUE PHANTOM »

Every Bonneville I have seen in my local junkyard has not have any sort of door rust. Most have had just knicks and dents.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by harofreak00 »

On the inside, not outside? Take a picture of your car in the same spot...
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Re: Bondo?

Post by PLAGUE PHANTOM »

Back door or front
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Re: Bondo?

Post by harofreak00 »

Rear door
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

All of the moisture must have got in by that little breathing hole on the inside of the door. It is a shame too because the car sat in long moist grass for like nine months and it was minnesota so it didnt make it any better. I have already replaced two rusted brake lines because they were leaking and my fenders have lower through-rust. Its always something since this car was neglected for so long.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by Arrowhead »

Maybe go "Old School" with a metal patch panel riveted or spot welded and then some real body solder. After that..... you'll have an old fashioned "lead sled" ! :wink: (Some of my Michigan ancestors did that soldering for the "big three" back in the 40s & 50s)

http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/leadin ... 4AodohQAhg


http://www.google.com/search?q=body+sol ... e&ie=UTF-8
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

Haha, that is a good idea. it went through on the other side now, so it is a "full hole" now. My dad had already brought up the metal patch rivet idea, so that may be a reasonable option. Thanks for the input Arrowhead. Got a bunch of good ideas now. :)
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1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

are 92-99 Pontiac Bonneville doors interchangeable?
1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Stored -All stock, Sony CDX-GT570UP HU w/ Scosche HD 6.5"'s front/Alpine S 6x9 rear, 153,000 miles
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 00Beast »

As far as I know, the doors are the same, but the trim changed, not sure about the locator holes in the door skin itself (for the trim).
Last edited by 00Beast on Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

Okay, I thought so. It would be nice if the locator holes were in the same position. Otherwise, I will just stick to finding a 96-99 door.
1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Stored -All stock, Sony CDX-GT570UP HU w/ Scosche HD 6.5"'s front/Alpine S 6x9 rear, 153,000 miles
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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Re: Bondo?

Post by PaulyGXP »

sandrock wrote:You don't want to bondo that. Bondo will hold moisture and over time will rust away what is surrounding it. And since it's in an area that will jostle around a lot, a glob of bondo is not choice.

Best option is to at least look for a door that's in good shape.
2nd best option is to look for a door with at the very least a good door skin.
3rd best option is to patch weld new metal then bondo on top of that.

If you MUST fill it, use JB-Weld stick putty. Unlike bondo, it won't hold moisture. And unlike bondo, it isn't flexible so you will need to prep the area GOOD so it will get a good bite when it cures. It sands easy enough. Bondo on top of that for finishing.

FWIW, bondo or any body filler for that matter is only good for 1/4" buildup. Best at 1/16th-1/8th range.
I agree with this. Find yourself a door! Pretty sure a 96-99 door would fit as well, just have to swap the moulding so it matches yours
~Pauly~

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Re: Bondo?

Post by 3800SERIESII »

On top of it. Been calling the local auto salvage places. Probably wont find a door in my color since it is not very abundant. But I am sure I will come up with a decent one in the next month.
1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Stored -All stock, Sony CDX-GT570UP HU w/ Scosche HD 6.5"'s front/Alpine S 6x9 rear, 153,000 miles
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE- Now a parts car - HAI, Muffler Delete, Summit Y-pipe, 250,000 miles
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Re: Bondo?

Post by LeSabre in Buffalo »

Since you're repainting anyhow, just repaint the new to you door.
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