Any Hockey Puck Breakthroughs?

[Grimm]

Well, my car tried to scare me today. Backed into a parking spot at work, and noticed a small puddle in front of the car. I had noticed a very small one last night in the driveway after I got out as well. Didn't smell like coolant, so I was fearing transmission fluid. It sort of looks orange/pink, but hard to tell for sure. Dipstick looked fine. Looked under car, and the front part of the frame in front was wet and dripping. Still stumped until I found out the trans mount has fluid in it. Could see wetness by the mount. Started it up and hit the throttle and could see the mount coming off the frame, and caught one tiny bubble of fluid at one point.

So are there any updates on the hockey puck mount? I'm a little worried about vibration, but I'll give it a try. So I'll pick up a few pucks, an 8" #8 bolt, some washers and nuts, and a pack of bushings (I'm assuming the Dorman pack I see online at Advance for $5 would suffice?). Then it looks like a bushing goes between the head of the bolt and the frame, and then one between the washers and the bracket? Will the bolt be long enough to put one between the bracket and the nut?

[SSEiMan01]

8" will be longer than needed, so thats good. Order will go bolt head, washer, swaybar link bushing, core support, hockey pucks, washers (to fit), bracket, washer, lock washer and nut OR nylon lock nut.

[redzmonte]

its actually not bad... especially if you get some sort of isolators between the ends of the bolt to keep the vibrations down. Mine is just bolt, pucks and washers and the vibrations are not bad... but i am going to get some bushings of some sort to try to eliminate the bit i do get.

S

[01bonneSC]

I would put the bolt head on top and not up from the bottom. And a bushing between the mount and the top of the pucks will help with vibs as well.

[harofreak00]

I would put the bolt head on top and not up from the bottom. And a bushing between the mount and the top of the pucks will help with vibs as well.

Explain your thought process, doesn't make sense to me.

The bolt should go in from the bottom. If you have the nut on the bottom, you probably will have a little bit of the bolt sticking down under the subframe, just asking to scrape that curb.

A bushing between the mount and the top of the pucks will only help with vibrations while in reverse and the mount is wanting to push down.

[Paragongx]

I imagine gravity is the thought process. If the nut comes off somehow, where's the bolt gonna go if it's put in from the bottom? And once the bolt is gone, what's gonna happen to the rest of the parts? Went through a similar discussion with control arm bolts on my Mystique.

[harofreak00]

If the nut comes off, the same effect is going to happen, no matter if the head of the bolt is on the top or bottom.

Just another reason to use locking nuts.

[01bonneSC]

Yes, incase the nut comes of for what ever reason(catastrophic nut/lock washer/loctite failure do to solar flares or whatever ). I always do this if I can with whatever I am working on.

And the bushing between the mount bracket and the pucks to dampen the natural vibrations even more. They still vibrate at idle. If I had thought about it when I did mine I would have.

[Grimm]

I'd wonder if you could even get a socket on the nut in that hole under the frame.

[harofreak00]

Yes, plenty of room.

[00Beast]

Provided you drill the pucks right, they should be a slip-fit, and hold the bolt up from the bottom. Definitely bolt head on bottom. I used a normal mechanical lock nut and a nyloc nut, just to be safe. Hasn't moved in the 2+ years I've had it.

[olblueeyesbonne]

How about a boat trailer roller, which will be slightly softer than hockey pucks, thus absorbing some of the engine vibrations.

[01bonneSC]

This is what I used for mine:

I still got one of these in my garage. I cut it a lil shorter than mine as to not touch the trans cooler lines. Works great though! Vulcanized rubber sandwhiched between 1/4" steel. There is a hole drilled through for a 7" or so bolt. Of course youll need to supply washers/nut/bolt. Also you'll need to grind a bit at the bottom of the bracket so it will sit square in the car, I just didnt do cause I wanted it in, prob fix that sometime this summer...