Coolant Elbow Questions

[96LSS]

Hi folks - I replaced the upper plenum and LIM gaskets about 40,000 miles ago using the good information on this site. Last night, I smelled anti-freeze when I pulled the car into the garage. After checking it out, I saw that it was coming from the coolant elbow between the tensioner casting and the intake manifold. I've got a couple of questions:
* do I need to put anything special on the o-ring to make the seal last longer?
* what's the best way to clean the female holes in the casting to assure a good o-ring seal?
* the check valve/restrictor in my angled heater hose pipe disintegrated. How important is this and where would i get one from?

Hopefully, I can round up all of the parts tomorrow to put it back together. I've also got the serpentine belt off and dropped the oil pan to replace the gasket.

Thanks!
Jim

[BryceSwartzwelder]

Howdy Jim,
Regarding your questions, here goes.

*There are a variety of products available, normally silicone based, to lubricate the o-rings. Silglyde part number bk7651351, is a product available at napa stores often used for this. Applied to the o-ring and mating bore to reduce scuffing the ring during assembly. Petroleum based products may effect the o-ring in a negative manner. I am unaware of products that actually prolong o-rings. Some people use anti corrosion compounds (commonly used in electrical connections) to ward off corrosion and oxidation. There are countless supplemental coolant additives available as well which reduce pitting from cavitation in cylinder blocks and heads though i don't know if they support o-ring longevity.

*Fine emery cloth will clean the bores quickly, or a stiff round wire brush when available.

*The coolant elbows are available readily. Napa part number BK 6601736 (about five us dollars). There are red packages of "HELP" items available at most auto parts stores. The elbows are HELP part # 47065 (2 in a package). I am uncertain if this is what you are looking for as i don't recall them having restrictions. The restriction likely retain flow for the engine itself and limit flow to the heater core to improve a/c efficiency. I would be more concerned about deteriorating parts personally. That material has to go somewhere and its going to likely accumulate at the heater core.

I hope that helps.
Bryce

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

Sil-Glyde or other 100% silicone lubricants will only work for a little while before the leak starts up again. Others on here have had good luck using RTV silicone sealant on the O-rings to prevent leaks.

I used Sil-Glyde, and the O-rings leaked 2 weeks later. I'll try the RTV sealant next time.

[Archon]

* the check valve/restrictor in my angled heater hose pipe disintegrated. How important is this and where would i get one from?

Is the piece shown in this diagram, coming off from the top of the tensioner? If so, those are the heater pipe adapters. You could get one from the dealer, or from a junk yard.

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[96LSS]

Thanks for the replies. The picture showing the heater pipe adapters is what I need. The top one has (had, in my case) some kind of a valve or restrictor in it.

Thanks again,
Jim

[BryceSwartzwelder]

Thanks for the replies. The picture showing the heater pipe adapters is what I need. The top one has (had, in my case) some kind of a valve or restrictor in it.

Thanks again,
Jim

That being said, the part numbers i previously posted for the elbows are invalid. Sorry.

[Archon]

Bryce, as I understand it, he has both problems. One with the elbow from the LIM to the tensioner and the other with the heater pipe adapters, so your information would be accurate and helpful.

[bill buttermore]

Regarding cleaning the o-ring bores: The o-ring bores are aluminum and easily scratched or gouged. That is why I would not recommend a stiff wire brush, but rather a fine (00, 000, 0000) steel wool with a bit of brake parts cleaner to help remove any adhering crud. If the bore is clean and smooth, and the o-ring new and without defect (check this out before installing), then a lubricant like silicone grease should allow the ring to be compressed and slid in place without damage. (If a dry o-ring is pushed into a dry bore, the ring can be damaged causing a leak.)

Many install the new ring into a clean dry bore with RTV silicone instead of grease. This method has a pretty good track record on this forum for resulting in a leak-free seal.

Regarding the heater hose device: On my 95 SLE, the hose into the heater core included what appeared to be a check valve. I assumed so because it had a direction of flow arrow cast into it. On the '95 the valve was a separate plastic piece spliced into the rubber part of the hose.

[2000Silverbullet]

Many install the new ring into a clean dry bore with RTV silicone instead of grease. This method has a pretty good track record on this forum for resulting in a leak-free seal.

I agree. 100% leak free for the life of the intake gasket until next time it has to be removed.
Clean all corrosion and wipe well with thinner, dry and apply thin smear of RTV high temp red. (other colour RTV will also work)