chevy p/u
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dwight
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chevy p/u
i don't use these rooms that much so i really don't know where to go. If i'm in the wrong place, let me know where to go. The question i have is not bonneville related but it is gm related. I have a 1993 chevy cheyenne 6-cyl, tbi. I need to know if everytime that you start and stop the engine, does the rotor always come back to the no. 1 plug? Again forgive me if this is not the place to ask this question. Thanks Dwight!
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Re: chevy p/u
Moved to Your Other Ride.
You will get more visibility if you choose a better subject heading.
You will get more visibility if you choose a better subject heading.
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

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2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
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Re: chevy p/u
The rotor does not go back to the #1 plug. It will stay synch'd with where the crankshaft is rotated to.

WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
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01bonneSC
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Re: chevy p/u
Are you trying to put it at TDC on number 1?
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00Beast
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Re: chevy p/u
The engine does not always end with the #1 cylinder @ TDC. It ends wherever the engine comes to a stop at. The easiest way to get it to #1 TDC is to take a paper towel or a rag and roll it up, stick it into the plug hole w/ the plug out and the engine disabled so it won't start, and turn the crank with a wrench on the bolt on the balancer until the compression forces the rag out.
Also, when the proper timing is set, the rotor points at the post a few degrees before TDC, as that is what timing advance is.
Also, when the proper timing is set, the rotor points at the post a few degrees before TDC, as that is what timing advance is.
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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myfirstbonnie
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Re: chevy p/u
Or just locate the timing mark on the HB and hopefully nobody removed the indicator.
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dwight
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Re: chevy p/u
the problem i have is it will turn over and acts like it wants to start but doesnt. It has been sitting for a minute and i did take 1 plug wire off to use on another car. When i had to move the truck i did so w/o that 1 wire, would that have moved the timing off. I'm thinking distributor coil or the electronic module. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!00Beast wrote:The engine does not always end with the #1 cylinder @ TDC. It ends wherever the engine comes to a stop at. The easiest way to get it to #1 TDC is to take a paper towel or a rag and roll it up, stick it into the plug hole w/ the plug out and the engine disabled so it won't start, and turn the crank with a wrench on the bolt on the balancer until the compression forces the rag out.
Also, when the proper timing is set, the rotor points at the post a few degrees before TDC, as that is what timing advance is.
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00Beast
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Re: chevy p/u
You just removed a plug wire, but didn't mess with the cap, distributor or rotor? As long as you put a wire on there and it goes to the right plug there is nothing that you would have disturbed. All the timing happens inside the distributor, the wire is just responsible for carrying the spark from the distributor to the plug. As long as all the wires go from the correct post to the corresponding plug, there is nothing else they could mess up.
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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myfirstbonnie
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Re: chevy p/u
This should be OBD I, do the jumper and get any codes. Should be able to use this procedure:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =51&t=8689
Or you can get the Haynes book and it will tell you how to pull the codes.
How long has his beeen sitting without being driven? You moved it with a missing wire, but did not specify if this was recently, a DD or was done 6 months ago.
Check all sensor wires and check for fuel at the TB. Verify the throttle plate is wet right after starting. If wet, press the accelerator a little when trying to start.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =51&t=8689
Or you can get the Haynes book and it will tell you how to pull the codes.
How long has his beeen sitting without being driven? You moved it with a missing wire, but did not specify if this was recently, a DD or was done 6 months ago.
Check all sensor wires and check for fuel at the TB. Verify the throttle plate is wet right after starting. If wet, press the accelerator a little when trying to start.
Last edited by myfirstbonnie on Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dwight
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Re: chevy p/u
It has been sitting 6 months or longer, but i would start it up and let it run to keep it healthy. I had no trouble with it starting. Then a couple of months ago i had to pull a wire maybe two, 1 for sure, i think it was no. 6 wire. I know that it would start up and run because i had to move it sometimes, i tried starting it about 2 weeks ago and it would crank but not start. I have voltage to coil, which i thought that might be the problem but isn't. I have a couple of other checks that i can do later today, but if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate the help. thanks!
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myfirstbonnie
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Re: chevy p/u
You have replaced the wires, correct? And verified they are all on the correct positions?
Check for fouled plugs, spark to the plugs and fuel. Check all wiring to make sure nothing looks worn or frayed.
Check for fouled plugs, spark to the plugs and fuel. Check all wiring to make sure nothing looks worn or frayed.
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Re: chevy p/u
Make sure there aren't mice or rats living in the airbox or something, or have chewed through wires. You would be shocked at where those little buggers can get into...
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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dwight
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Re: chevy p/u
Do i need to set tdc on the No. 1 plug or does it matter?
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01bonneSC
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Re: chevy p/u
Set it to that to do what?dwight wrote:Do i need to set tdc on the No. 1 plug or does it matter?
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viper8907
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Re: chevy p/u
If you're trying to reset the timing, then yes you need to set the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder.dwight wrote:Do i need to set tdc on the No. 1 plug or does it matter?
-Tom

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2003 Silverado Ext. Cab - Charcoal - 128,000 miles - Stock...for now.
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myfirstbonnie
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Re: chevy p/u
I would check it first. If it hasn't been messed with since it was last running it should be ok. The timing will not move on a non running engine. Have you tried getting the codes? Have you tried giving it a shot of starting fluid.
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dwight
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Re: chevy p/u
I guess what i mean't was, once you set it on tdc, does or is it supposed to always come back to that cyl. number when you turn off engine. My manuel say's you tdc it on the no. 1 cylinder, so it should always come back to that number 1 cyl.
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Re: chevy p/u
The distributor is gear driven. When you stop the engine, the distributor stops too. Say #5 is on the compression stroke when the engine stops, the rotor will be approaching the the contact to fire the #5 plug. When you restart the engine, #5 will fire first.

WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
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00Beast
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Re: chevy p/u
Your engine has a 1/720 chance of stopping at TDC of the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder (there are 720* in one 4-stroke cycle, and TDC is only 1 degree). The engine just stops when there's no more force pushing the pistons down, and the compression works against the cylinders. You have to set it at #1 TDC to set timing when re-assembling an engine if you have removed the distributor if you turned the engine over while it was out or if you didn't mark where the rotor was upon removal.
If you are still not clear, TDC is when the piston is at the top of its stroke in the bore. It happens twice a cycle, at the end of the compression stroke, when the plug has already fired and the burning mix is pushing against it, and at the end of the exhaust stroke when it's being pulled down by the crankshaft, and pulling the fresh fuel/air mix. TDC is just the position of the piston.
If you are still not clear, TDC is when the piston is at the top of its stroke in the bore. It happens twice a cycle, at the end of the compression stroke, when the plug has already fired and the burning mix is pushing against it, and at the end of the exhaust stroke when it's being pulled down by the crankshaft, and pulling the fresh fuel/air mix. TDC is just the position of the piston.
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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dwight
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Re: chevy p/u
[c olor=#0000BF][/color] Ok, i got it now. I was under the impression that when you set at no. 1 that it would always return to no.1 pos. Before i asked you that question i looked at the rotor and it wasn't at no.1 so i thought thats's why it wouldn't start (silly me). Thanks a lot guys i appreciate the info, now if i can just get it started. later!


