Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
myfirstbonnie wrote:First, I would rather spend the extra money and do it once and not have it leave me stranded because it decided to fail again when most inconvenient. Second, this is not an item that lasts only a few thousand miles. It will easily last a long time.
Second, we need to confirm this is the issue before we go throwing money at it. To the OP, have you had this checked? Also, take the belt off and feel all the pulleys and accessories and make sure they all spin freely.
First, you said second twice.
Second, if they last that long.. why not get from a junkyard?
He shows he has 209k on the car. If it is the original, that is very good. Now if he gets one from the JY with ...................180k on it, looks like 20k and he is changing it again. If he puts a new one on..............................209k more. So figure 20k on a used one, the math works out to 10 used ones at $10 each equals $100.
A new one $75-$100 and change it once and no more need to change.
This is one of those wear items that adds up to be cheaper and less hassle to change one time and not have to worry about it every 20k miles.
To me, this is like telling someone to get a water pump from the JY for $2.
Well, I took it to a mechanic that I hadn't tried before but that I trust the person who referred me to him. This mechanic works on all my buddies cars, which include a '97 Trans Am with LT1, a mint condition 88 Fiero which is a show car, and a 2002 Bonneville SE. Matter of fact, he just got done doing some work to my buddie's Bonneville. In any case, I told him the problem and the symptoms, and he called me back saying it was just the belt, not the tensioner. I asked him what belts he used - he preferred Gates. So, okay, we'll try that then. He ran diagnostics on the charging system, and I think he said it was cranking about 130 amps at 1500 RPM (I THINK - not sure if that was exact or not), but in any case, it was the belt. The belt is nice and tight now, I can only move it about 1/2" as opposed to the 2 1/2" approximate that I was able to push/pull it before. I got on the accelerator a bunch of times (there goes my fuel economy) to make sure it behaved okay. It did.
On a sidenote - my buddies Trans Am just had the plugs and wires changed, so we went for a quick drive up the highway. He got it up to 125 with one gear left. It ran much better!
Mine was $16 new from Kragen's. The gatorbacks run like $23 here. A half-hour job max. Your mechanic is proposing a ball-point robbery.
Be sure to support the engine with a jack and block of wood when you pull the motor mount bolt. It's 18mm, by the way. Tensioner bolt is 15MM left-hand thread.
CDawg011 wrote:woooaahh.. no way..... you can get one from a junk/salvage yard for like 10 bucks max!! i got one for 5!! and they should NOT be that high especially for this common of an engine.
