Fixing up suspension and anyone have a scanner?

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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putertopia
Posts like an L36
Posts like an L36
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 8:37 pm
Year and Trim: 1997 Pontiac Bonneville SE (H4U)
Location: Chambersburg, PA
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Fixing up suspension and anyone have a scanner?

Post by putertopia »

I've finally gotten fed up with my dated 120k mile suspension on my car. With every beginning of a turn comes a tap of the brakes so that I'm sure not to roll off the road in the turn. I just sold my 94 SSEi, so I'm putting some money into the green one to make it a daily driver for longer. I just dropped $235 (I'm not arguing on that price :lol:) on front Monroe-matic struts, rear Monroe sensa-trac shocks, and a set of Raybestos springs so that my ass end and expensive exhaust tips don't skip and drag at every little bump in the road.

I'm going to stop at Autozone and grab some stuff to freshen up the swaybar as well that everyone has mentioned. Anyone have any other suggestions? This car is NOT capable of doing a burnout, and the front tires are pretty bald after 20k miles. Even though I drive spirited, not one time on dry pavement have these tires spun so I'm assuming I also need an alignment which should stiffen things up in the turns.

And speaking of the lack of tire shreddage, anyone locally have a scanner/tuner that could help me figure this thing out? It STILL shudders up hills in lockup, just like it has since I bought it, except now it's so bad that if you keep your foot on the gas while TC is locked up and RPMs get low enough, the car actually jerks back and forth now :shock:. Yes, you have to drive my car like a manual by depressing the gas pedal more than 60% to keep the TC out of lockup and keeping it in the upper RPM range or else your in for an interesting ride that's always sure to trigger comments from your passengers. What's weird about all of this is that I still get 30-33 MG on the highway and she does have a healthy amount of power once you get it above 20 MPH. I feel kind of like I'm driving a torqueless Honda sometimes :oops:

O2 is Denso and has been replaced, wires have been replaced, fuel pressure is OK, ignition coils have been cleaned and tested within spec, TPS has been tested and is within spec, MAF has been cleaned multiple times but I have no extra to test against, Vac lines have been gone over multiple times (story of my life), and if I were to imagine what KR feels like (sudden lack of power one second then full power the next and very spotty powerband) then I'd say I have more KR than if I were to take a stock SSEi and throw on a 3" pulley.

Who can possibly help me make this 120k mi GM vehicle last me through the next two years of school without a new motor?
- Josh

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1994 Bonneville SSEi - 136k mi - FWI, 180* T-stat, Fresh upper gaskets
1997 Bonneville SE - 110k mi - H4U, 3.06:1, Tinted Tails, Bridgestone Potenza G009 225/60/16s
Performance: INTENSE PCM, INTENSE 180* T-stat, Gutted air box, K&N air filter, Ported LIM, Borg Warner Wires, NGK TR-55 Plugs, Adjustable Trans Modulator.
Bells and Whistles: Flowmaster 80 crossflow muffler w/ quad tips, 2x Kicker CVR12 Subs in vented box, 1000W RMS 1-ohm American Bass Amp, Alpine MRP-F200 4-channel amp (temporary), Infinity 60.7CS 6.5" Component System (front), Blaupunkt 3-way 6x9s (rear), Pioneer DEH-P6900UB Head Unit, Hardwired Whistler Pro 58 Radar Detector, Hardwired Navigon 2100 GPS
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