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 Post subject: 1995 L36 Suspension
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 2:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:19 am
Posts: 123
Year and Trim: 1995 bonneville se L36
NEW
F Rotors pads calipers
F Complete Struts & mounts (07/16)
F subframe rusted out & 4/6 new bushings welded in (not front 2 near grill) (10/16)
F P side wheel hub
F p side reman. cv axle
Camber bolts & alignment
ICM
R wheel cylinder x 2
Tires are all 4 & 5 32nds
All 4 break bleaders are bleed

I should do D side hub? i hear it popping sometimes
The subframe mounting holes were rotted out & had 2b welded. Would this throw off anything?
When i drive down the road i feel every bump. I know its 22 yrs old but should ride smoother w all these new parts i think. I Also when i start engine i can feel it rumble in the steering wheel?

Thanks
Justin


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 Post subject: Re: 1995 L36 Suspension
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 8:49 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6882
Location: Philadelphia
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
What brand front struts and rear shocks? Low dollar replacements will ride shty. Rear spring rubbers replaced?

Get each corner in the air and check for play in the tie rods, ball joints, and wheel bearings. If there's no play, no reason to replace anything. If so, replace and get another alignment since aligning with worn parts won't actually align the car.

You should not need camber/crash bolts unless your aftermarket struts didn't come with a slotted bottom mounting bolt hole. There's a ton of adjustment stock. If you do, the car might have been in a front ender at some point.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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 Post subject: Re: 1995 L36 Suspension
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 8:19 pm 
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SSE Member

Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:19 am
Posts: 123
Year and Trim: 1995 bonneville se L36
Yes F struts are ebay cheap both were 90 w free shipping. Camber holes were not big enough to adjust alignment,.
Rear shocks have not been touched or shock mounts Is rear rubber u were talking about?
All sway bar bushings and links are factory, I assume.
Would control arm bushings be bad F or R?
Does 95 se have trailing arms and/or lateral links?

Thanks
Justin


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 Post subject: Re: 1995 L36 Suspension
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 11:27 pm 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:47 pm
Posts: 6882
Location: Philadelphia
Year and Trim: 95 SLE
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10 and 11 for spring rubbers. Google image searched for that pic.

Only LCAs on the rear. No lat/trailing arms.

Yes the bushings could be bad. Something else to watch for when you're yanking on each wheel checking for play.

The front has the most weight and will react the most to cheap parts. If I had to guess your eBay struts are probably contributing the most to a bad ride. I'm assuming you got a spring and strut combo. Who knows what spring rate they attempted to emulate or if the valving even works well with that spring rate. GM had different variations for each suspension RPO code.

All of the rubber bushings tie rods etc. would mostly just make for sloppy steering.

_________________
Image
95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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