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 Post subject: Power Door Lock Problem
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:14 pm 
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97 Bonneville Ei

Problem:
When ever I press the power door lock switch the door locks only engage approximately 30% and don't lock or unlock. It's the same whether I press the drivers or passenger door lock switch and the further away from the drivers door the weaker the locks function and sounds. It almost reacts as though I'm getting around 10 volts to the door lock solenoid. They work manually so all four locks are not stuck and the alternator is charging between 13.0-13.3 volts at idle. If I press either door lock switch rapidly twice, they tend to engage at around 80%, but only 60% of the time.

The key fob stopped working so I can't try that function. Any suggestions as to the problem?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:07 pm 
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maybe a bad relay - some are under the drivers seat

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:33 pm 
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Thanks for the reply rpacody,

I'll see if I can find the relay and swap it out, I would figure it was more of a bad connection or ground since it seems to be lacking power.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:59 pm 
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If you suspect a wet floor, your ground buss connections under both door sills could be the problem. They are located near the front of each door opening. Search for "ground buss", there are lots of pics posted.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:25 pm 
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Thanks for the reply Sonoma_r2

I gather you're refering to the photo below which I found while doing the search? By the way, no wet floor but it's still worth looking into.

Image


Last edited by Maymybonneliveforevr on Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:00 am 
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I checked the ground buss and there doesn't seem to be any corrosion so I put it back together and the problem still exists. I've done a search and read the relay is under the drivers seat below the carpet but can't seem to locate it. I've then read it's under the passenger glove box. Anyone know which one is correct for the 97 model year?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 1:07 pm 
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Haven't had the problem on my 98 (yet) but think I read someplace that it is in a housing (box) that contains 2 relays under the seat but not sure

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:12 pm 
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box under the glove box


Attachments:
99 right ip fuse panel.jpg
99 right ip fuse panel.jpg [ 327.82 KiB | Viewed 7036 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 5:59 pm 
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Thanks sonoma, I'll check tomorrow as Michael has the car and is at work at the moment.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:26 am 
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I changed the door lock relay and found no difference. One thing I did notice is when the relay was removed, I pressed the passenger door lock switch and the drivers door lock worked great. None of the other door locks worked as the relay was out.

Any other suggestions I can try?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:37 pm 
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Switches possibly? :dontknow:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:53 pm 
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might try finger pressure on each of the lock slides in the doors one at a time while using your fob and maybe find a weak actuator

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Last edited by RPACODY on Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:04 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:37 am 
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SSEiMan01 wrote:
Switches possibly? :dontknow:
The problem is the same whether I use the drivers or passenger door lock switch so you think it maybe both switches?
RPACODY wrote:
might try finger pressure on each of the lock slides in the doors one at a time while using your fob and maybe find a weak actuator
You think one actuaator would case problems with all 4 door locks?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:43 am 
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was just thinking it might be a way to isolate if one door was causing a problem robbing voltage (maybe a dumb idea but easy to try) – did you clean BOTH busses?

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Last edited by RPACODY on Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:06 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:46 am 
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Could be both switches, actually. Ya never know. But I would eliminate everything else first then use the switch theory as a backup. :)

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88 Cutlass Ciera Brougham International | 120k mi | White w/ Dk Claret Int. | Roller to be S2 L67/4T65E-HD | 1 of ~5100 3.8 FE3 Int'l series
91 Riviera | S2 L67 Swap/4T60E | 127K mi | Antelope Met. w/ Tan Int. | Saved From Death By Crusher
92 Bonneville SSE | L67/4T60E | 77K mi | Med Slate Grey w/ Two-Tone Grey Int. | Low Miles Time Capsule
92 Lumina Z34 | LQ1/4T60E | 177k mi | Torch Red w/Grey Int. | Rusty In Odd Spots
99 Tahoe LT | L31/4L65E | 276k mi | Spiral Grey Metallic w/Grey Int. | Truck for Truck Things and Portable Concert Hall
03 Park Avenue Ultra | 212K mi | White Diamond Met. w/ Shale Int. | Southern Time Capsule
05 Acura RL | 155K mi | Carbon Grey Pearl w/Ebony Int. | The Super-Hooptie Daily


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 1:37 pm 
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RPACODY wrote:
did you clean BOTH busses?
I didn't realize there were two, I only checked the drivers side, is there one on the passenger side?
SSEiMan01 wrote:
Could be both switches, actually.
Well then I'll have to replace one of the switches and check.


Thanks for the suggestions guys.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 9:54 pm 
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there is a Buss (pic above) on driver and passenger side - bad buss could give you poor ground and low voltage clean both as common to many electrical problems

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:41 am 
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So far I have:

replaced both driver and passenger door lock switches
replaced the door lock relay on the passenger side under the glove box.
replaced the 20 amp fuse located near the relay.
cleaned driver and passenger side ground buss.

Problem still exists, if I press the door lock switch quickly twice in either the unlock or lock position, it seems to work 80% of the time.


Last edited by Maymybonneliveforevr on Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 7:30 am 
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I've fiddled around with this a bit more and can't seem to figure it out. My previous posts lists what I've tried already and I don't know what else to try.

Any suggestions please.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:29 pm 
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Just a bump if anyone has any suggestions.

Thanks


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