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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:10 pm 
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Hey Everyone

I need some suggestions on what would cause the lack of heat /coolant to go to the heater core? I have taken the glove box out and have verified the actuator moves when I move the temperature knob. I went out and felt the heat hoses and there a luke warm at best while the radiator hose is at normal temperature/HOT. The temperature on the guage was at 190. I bought the car about 2 month ago for my son and unfortuantly did not verfy it was working.

There has been a lot of work done on the car's cooling system . New radiato, new water pump but I have notice they left the dextrol in it. Any help would be apperciated, I plan on draining the dextrol out as soon as I verify if I need a new heater core.

If I do need to change the heater core can some direct me to post because it looks like a bear.

Josh


Last edited by Joshuabonnie on Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:26 pm 
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You can check if the heather core is getting good flow by disconnecting the lines at the engine and running your garden hose through one. It should flow at a very good rate with little to no resistance to flow.

Hopefully it is not the heater core.... those are NOT easy to swap out in the '92 - '99 years...

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:13 am 
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Thanks I will give that a try. It does not look easy at all, the lines look like a real pain.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:16 pm 
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Do as stated above but, reverse the flow that the core normally would see. There should be flow arrows on the tensioner where the heater hoses attach. With reversing the flow to the core you should be able to blow some of the dex-kill mud out of the heater core.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:39 pm 
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Thanks for the information just got done trying to flush it and the return hose is so caked up with crude I could not get anything to flow. So I guess I will be headed for Heater core change, wish me luck not looking forward to removing those hose clamps.


Josh


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Unfortunately then I for see lots of :banghead: :angry4: :cussing: :cussing: :cussing: :cussing: in the near future for you. :poke:

When I replaced the heater hoses on mine it took forever, on top of the scraped and bleeding knuckles. Buy the time I was done I wanted to kick the GM engineer in the balls for that great location and the use of the constant tension hose clamps for this particular application that you can't hardly get to. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:54 pm 
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There is a specific tool for getting at those clamps, costs about $25 - $30. http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?pa ... 921x00003a is what you need if that link don't work do a google search for cable operated hose clamp pliers. Absolutely worth the cost.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:26 pm 
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Hey still need some help out with the no heat situation. First off I bought the plyer from autozone ( cheap piece of craps) to use for the heater core change but I thought I would try to flush one more time. So I built my own flush noze like this one http://www.jbtoolsales.com/Thexton-356- ... flush-Tool only for 12.00 at Lowes and it work great both forward and backwords.

Now that I got it cleared out I toped it off and started the car waiting for the heat to turn up but still no heat. So what should I do next could it be air bubble or is there somthing I am missing . Oh the Top heater core hose did get warm this time but not as much as the radiator hose.


Any help would be great.

Josh


Last edited by Joshuabonnie on Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:06 pm 
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Hey does anyone have any other idea regarding the heat on my 92.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:24 pm 
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Sorry, was going to comment on this when I first seen it but got side tracked...

Anyways, it sounds like the coolant level is still a little low and not flowing to your heater core. Either that or there is blockage somewhere in the system preventing the coolant from reaching the heater core lines. If your heater core or lines were blocked up then there is a possibility that the points that the lines connect to on the block could be partially plugged as well, that would be worth looking into if you are 100% sure the coolant level is full.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:54 pm 
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Hey Thanks!!! I am not sure at this point of anything. I believe there is a blockage somewhere because I have done a revers flush tonight from the heat core lines to the top radiator hose which flowed clean then I revers filed it from the heater core and the thermostate. I also replace the thermostate and it got to operating temperateure but still no heat.

How hard is it to remove the metal lines from the engine and clean and replace. Not sure how they lock in.


Okay any other suggestions I am pretty much done and have no clue.


Josh


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:00 am 
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The metal lines aren't hard to remove on an SSEi, but I am not sure if they are the same on an SE without the supercharger. If they are the same there is just one nut that holds them in place and an O-ring to seal them. If you pull them out just make sure that the bores they go into are good and clean before you put the lines back in, use some RTV to seal and lubricate as well as new O-rings.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:05 am 
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Do you know what the lines are called, so I can get some new ones or the right O rings. What type of RTV would you use.

Josh


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:12 am 
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Not sure what they are called, or even if they are the same as on an SSEi. As for the O-rings, when I had my old '93 SSEi apart I just found one that fit but wasn't too large to keep it from going into the bore.

The lines should be fine even if they are plugged up, just clean them out good and reuse them.

I will see if I can find a pic of when I did mine...

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:21 am 
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Thank you that would be great. He did your 93 have a heater control valve, I dont think mine does but thought I would ask.

Josh


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:25 am 
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Not sure about a heater control valve.

I looked but I couldn't find any pics of the lines... I will dig around and see if I find any others though.

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2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:43 am 
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Thanks I apperciate any help!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:08 pm 
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So still no heat in the Bonnie but did notice something odd with the A/C on, it felt like the out side vent were sucking air through like the defroster is on. So with that being said any idea like we have vacum issue?

Josh


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:56 pm 
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When I replaced the heater hoses on mine it took forever, on top of the scraped and bleeding knuckles. Buy the time I was done I wanted to kick the GM engineer in the balls for that great location and the use of the constant tension hose clamps for this particular application that you can't hardly get to. :roll:


I figured since I was replacing the heater core anyway, what the hell. I took a long chisel and broke the nozzles off even with the firewall.

The heater core took some jockeying to get it out but I didn't have to remove anything, got it from underneath. I also tossed the weird clamps that need the pinch tool (can't remember their name) and used regular hose clamps. I used replacement hose from the roll at NAPA, greased the inside so the hoses would slip onto the nipples easily, and slid the clamps down the hose and tightened them with a long extension. Kept the weird clamps up top because they were easy to get to.

Made the job a lot easier, maybe an hour.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:10 pm 
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What where the symptoms that cause you to replace your core. I am not sure if thats my problem since I was able to flush it.

Josh


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