NOTE: This is not just a poll; I would really appreciate comments/advice as well

Hi, I've been a lurker around here for awhile learning quite a bit about vehicles and maintenance in general (with scotty killmer/chris fix as well). This is a rather large post, I tried to give as much detail as possible and format it for easier reading. please feel free to skip to pictures/parts&problems or look at the scan data; all advice/input is greatly appreciated.

I am posting here to find a general consensus on weather or not it would be worth putting the $300-$400 to fix my 1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE N/A (not supercharged 158k miles) or if I should cut my loses and buy a new(used) vehicle.

The value of the vehicle is 700-1200 at most; however, if fixing the issues can push another year or two out of the vehicle I think it would be worth it. Not only will I learn a thing or two (first time doing this type of work on my car myself) but I really enjoy the ride and vehicle; not to mention finding another vehicle this size is quite difficult.

The problems I am having include loss of power/acceleration,UIM/LIM failure, valve covers leaking, transmission fluid leaking (and thus slipping) and possibly pcm/alternator issues (some codes below, all one time and never reappeared after clear;I also changed wires/plugs 2 weeks ago)
P1406 EGR valvue pintle pos cir malf
P0300 random misfire
P1106 MAP sensor Cir intermittent High voltage
P0133 Heated oxy sensor b1s1 slow response
P0706 Transaxle range switch performance

Below are pictures and descriptions of my problems:



~~~~~~~~~~~~Pictures~~~~~~~~~~
I noticed my coolant was quite low when I changed some spark plugs and wires a couple weeks ago and topped it off (about 6 qrts; have not checked it in 2-3 years and its had the green liquid since I bought it). since then I've lost 2 Coolant tanks and noticed allot of calcified green tint (burnt coolant?) and coolant around the fuel injectors and side of engine/transmission (failed UIM/LIM). looks like it was made in 05/2006


(below) transmission gasket failed on one side; it is really dirty under here so i needed to use UV Dye to find it.


some black/brown gritty sludge stuff in overflow tank (I saw some black floating oily looking stuff in the transmission too; it was a very small amount but it looks like a tiny amount of a black oily substance(looks like a patch of floating oil in radiator neck) is getting into the radiator.(no pics)


possibly some small radiator leaks on each side (hard to see driver side leak) so not all the coolant may be leaking around/in the manifolds (other coolant leak pics below)

engine pics; also crank case and dip stick dont show milky signs of coolant being mixed in with them (dipstick looks like clean oil) but it glows under UV light (detergents in the oil may also glow under uv light so im not so worried)

here is a link to an album with other pics of the engine, Bonneville, and repair reports from BlueDriver (some rust and massive clear coat failure....hot sun in AZ is more damaging than I expected) =/Car troubles shared album (google+)

~~~~~~~~~~Scan Data~~~~~~~~~~

I also have some scanner data (lemur BlueDriver) if anyone wants to take a look at it; included is some mode 6 data error codes/reports and some live drving data (some idealing some driving around also had some random stalls in 1 or 2 logs.
google drive spreadsheet several dates (lots of trips)

(I have no idea how to read Mode 6 data on this car)
Mode 6 Information:
• OBD Monitor IDs supported ($21 - $40), High sensor voltage for switch time calculation (constant), , Status: Test Fail MID: 20 TID: 04 MIN: - VAL: 0x8002 ✗MAX 0x7FFE
• VVT Monitor Bank 1, Lean to rich sensor switch time (calculated), , Status: ✓
Complete and Pass MID: 35 TID: 06 MIN: - VAL: 0x26 MAX 0x3B
• Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1, Lean to rich sensor switch
time (calculated), , Status: Complete and Pass MID: 41 TID: 06 MIN: - VAL: ✓0x63 MAX 0x168
• Oxygen Sensor Monitor Bank 3 - Sensor 4, Minimum sensor voltage for test cycle (calculated), , Status: Test Fail MID: 0C TID: 07 MIN: - VAL: 0xFF97 ✗MAX 0x00
• Oxygen Sensor Monitor Bank 4 - Sensor 1, Minimum sensor voltage for test cycle (calculated), , Status: Complete and Pass MID: 0D TID: 07 MIN: - VAL: ✓ 0x00 MAX 0x02

I really Appreciate all input and advice the community has posted here; Thanks in advance.
Please let me know if anyone needs additional pictures/information

~James

IDK if a poll post is the right place for comments , so my apologies if it isn't.
FWIW, I'm also a fan of Scotty Kilmer (and Ericthecarguy).
Your trouble with the EGR may be causing at least some of the other codes--- and power loss.
EGR valves can get carbon clogged or just wear out over time.
When the EGR sticks open, it creates a lean condition. The EGR code is indicating that the pintle is in the wrong position.

As for the driver's side coolant leak, have you checked the plastic elbow near the waterpump?
The elbow cracks and leaks coolant into that area.

IDK which manifold is the best.
I think I've read that Dorman manifolds include upgrades--perhaps someone will confirm or refute this.


It will certainly cost far more than a few hundred for another car that even runs---and you may simply be getting a different set of problems.

I just added the poll last second assuming it was an addition; didn't realize it may be taken as something else.

the coolant may be leaking at the elbows as well; but, its leaking all around the gasket too (thats why I'd get more elbows too--doorman metal ones)

I'm all for repairing/replacing things before they become catastrophic.

I wanted you to be aware of the EGR problem and its link to the troubles you've described.
Someone better versed in the ins and outs of the intake manifold may be able to tell you if the manifold itself could be causing the EGR problem.

The coolant leak on the driver side looks like it may be coming from a small crack in the radiator tank. It may be hard to see The crack but that happened to me on both of my Bonnevilles. How is the body? If it isn't rusty and the subframe mounts have no signs of failing, I say fix it all and the car will last you many more years. It will be less hassle than finding a new car IMO. Also parts are plentiful for these cars and easy to find.

_________________

-Ryan
2004 GTO....LS1, LSA supercharged 525whp, 6MT
96 SSEi...September 2010 COTM........GONE
04 GTP comp G.... December 2015 COTM........GONE
2013 Audi Allroad Quattro

I think you are the only one that can really answer the question. You should decide if you are willing to spend the time and money to see the project through. I faced the same dilemma. I have a '92 Bonneville SSE we bought new in '91. It was my wife's car. We put 305K+ miles on the car. It has the original drive train in it. If I had the money and was able I would rebuild the engine and keep the car. As it is, as soon as I can clean the car out of items, I'm calling LKQ to come get it. It has no rust.

So it boils down to, "are you up to it time wise, physically, mentally and financially?" If you are, then my vote is a definite YES! - BC

_________________
In Memory of Brad - 1/21/1977 .. 10/23/2013 ...... Aaron - 1977 .. 2017 .....
2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... PBCF user 2321

I think you will see that the general consensus is to fix it.

But this trans slipping you talk about - does that happen all the time or only when fluid level was low?

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

hi, I had the same 96 but SSEi- great car- If you have the will, time and cash, the people on the forum will help you with the knowledge part- I say go for it and keep her on the road for a few years more. Give you time to save money for your next Bonneville!!

the smell is most likely mold in carpet- can be killed with heat and its all good.

once you get her fixed up, she will be babemobile....lol

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

I say fix it! had the same thing happen to me last summer haha. first thing to do is drain all the fluids and start taken things apart if you are up to it. you should only have to buy the new gaskets for the LIM/UIM an not the whole set (unless you want to rebuild it all like I am). two to three days of nice weather and the right parts/tools and you will get this fixed no problem and have the car for many years yet. the biggest factor is time. are you willing to put the time and effort into doing this yourself or paying $500+ to have a shop do it. Like the others said keep an eye on the EGR and if you need any help don't be afraid to ask for help on here!

_________________
They call me...Snowflake
Mine:1998 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3800 II 250k miles (Bad engine)
MODS: all chrome lug nuts, ported UIM LIM, 180 T-stat
In Progress: Finished overhaul under the hood, & updated interior.

OURS(DD): 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100SFI 165k miles MODS: custom lights both front and back
Hers: 04 Pontiac Aztec Base model. More to come later

I'll take some subframe mount pics as I am unsure of current condition other than they are still attached; previously the car was mainly driven in ND. There is some rust and in fact I have no sway bar links as they rusted and broke off quite some time ago and I have yet to replace them.

I plan on buying whole new uim to avoid any issues and doing the work myself.




As there is a gasket leak I believe the majority of the time its due to low fluid/unsealed system. When fluid had been toped off (maybe with some Lucas too) the slipping subsidies/stops altogether.

I do know;however, that when it upshifts it feels bogged down or drawn out. Its not slipping in this case, you can feel the car drop back and upshift slowly; best way I might be able to describe it might be like your biking/walking through mud.

System was flushed 4-5years ago but I don't think the filter was replaced

Edit:how's the part list look any other suggestions?