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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:13 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1998 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi
Trying to remove the harmonic balancer on my 98 SSEi but cant seem to figure how to keep the crank pulley from turning.

What is the easiest way to do this?


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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:26 pm 
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You can wrap a belt around the HB and waterpump pulley so that it tightens on itself and hold it in place. Or find a way to hold the flexplate.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:34 pm 
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95naSTA wrote:
You can wrap a belt around the HB and waterpump pulley so that it tightens on itself and hold it in place. Or find a way to hold the flexplate.



I have no clue how to hold the flexplate. My try the first the first idea, thanks.

Any other suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Flexplate (aka flywheel) is the large gear that the starter engages with to turn over the engine. Should be a small (plastic IIRC) cover near the starter that you can remove to view the flexplate. I find a little heat from a propane torch helps get the HB bolt out from the crank.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:15 pm 
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Remember that heat burns the rubber face, so if this balancer isn't bad and you're removing it for another reason, flame would be bad.

Remove the plastic cover beneath where the engine and trans bolt together. It's actually a 2-piece cover, three 10mm socket head bolts. One forward, two below IIRC. Then stick a socket extension through one hole in the flexplate so it jams up against the under side of the motor as you try to break the bolt free. Think about the direction it will turn when you do this.

You will likely need a cheater pipe or long breaker bar. If you have an impact wrench, you don't even need to hold the flexplate. Tightening is the reverse.

PLEASE NOTE:
If you borrowed or rented or purchased a puller (I hope you did, you need one), the bolts are NOT likely in the kit. You need three M6 bolts to thread into the balancer. If you use the wrong thread pitch, you WILL strip out the holes and cause a major headache.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:51 pm 
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willwren wrote:
Remember that heat burns the rubber face, so if this balancer isn't bad and you're removing it for another reason, flame would be bad.

Remove the plastic cover beneath where the engine and trans bolt together. It's actually a 2-piece cover, three 10mm socket head bolts. One forward, two below IIRC. Then stick a socket extension through one hole in the flexplate so it jams up against the under side of the motor as you try to break the bolt free. Think about the direction it will turn when you do this.

You will likely need a cheater pipe or long breaker bar. If you have an impact wrench, you don't even need to hold the flexplate. Tightening is the reverse.

PLEASE NOTE:
If you borrowed or rented or purchased a puller (I hope you did, you need one), the bolts are NOT likely in the kit. You need three M6 bolts to thread into the balancer. If you use the wrong thread pitch, you WILL strip out the holes and cause a major headache.



I was able to get the crank bolt off and as you stated the threaded bolts that came with the puller kit are too big for the holes in the balancer.

So I got some 1/4"-20 bolts from Home Depot but the probleming I'm having is that I only see two 1/4" holes in the balancer and no 3rd hole. What should I do? Think I should use the claw type puller device instead?


Last edited by Bonnie98ssei on Sat May 21, 2011 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:59 pm 
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There only 3 open slots in the HB and the bolt holes are directly in the center of those but recessed.

You have to use the correct bolts. If you need something to match it to, it's the same thread as the upper intake to lower intake bolts. I just use 3 of the longer ones usually near the throttle body since I have them laying around.

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98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.6@104mph, 30MPG Hwy
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 8:03 pm 
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95naSTA wrote:
There only 3 open slots in the HB and the bolt holes are directly in the center of those but recessed.

You have to use the correct bolts. If you need something to match it to, it's the same thread as the upper intake to lower intake bolts. I just use 3 of the longer ones usually near the throttle body since I have them laying around.



Found 2 of the recessed holes, couldn't find the 3rd. I'll look at it again tomorrow when I get better lighting outside.


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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 9:01 pm 
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willwren wrote:
Remember that heat burns the rubber face, so if this balancer isn't bad and you're removing it for another reason, flame would be bad.

I've done it twice with no problem. Normal propane torch with the flame directly on the head of bolt. Heated it up less than a minute & the previously stuck bolts came right out. I think it's just enough to soften that reddish orange goo on the bolt.

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Last edited by Mechanical Mike on Sat May 21, 2011 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 11:03 pm 
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Maybe this will help you - from techinfo.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8267

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 12:09 am 
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DO NOT USE THOSE 1/4-20 BOLTS! 1/4-28 would be closer, but both will strip out your balancer. Get the correct bolts like I already posted. I had to remove one in my shop from a 2k Bonneville that had used the wrong bolts before, and it was a NASTY trick to get it off the motor, and the motor was out of the car at the time.

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 10:21 pm 
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Simplest way....loosen lug nuts on the passenger wheel, jack up car on passenger side front,set jack stand, remove passenger wheel, remove splash shield on the inner fender wall, loosen serpentine belts off the balancer, use an electric impact tool to remove crank bolt, use Lisle puller 45300 to remove harmonic balancer (Sears sells it). Installation is the reversal of the above steps. I used my inpact driver to set the crank bolt back on. I'm a 2-2.5 on the mech scale and it took me less than an hour! Be sure you put the belts back on straight...it'll squeal if you don't....ask me how I know!


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 10:45 pm 
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I just pulled mine today to replace the crank position sensor. I found this video on youtube on how to remove the balance nut and for me it worked with only one quick crank of the key. BUT I don't know if there are any negatives to doing this this way. I tried an impact first but it was not getting to bolt lose so I went ahead and tried this video and it worked.

If anyone knows and negatives doing it this way please post up.
Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_-FsVvNr40

AND as already stated above, I used 6M bolts and they fix perfect.

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Last edited by Whitecrystal1 on Sun May 22, 2011 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 10:48 pm 
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clasko2 wrote:
Simplest way....loosen lug nuts on the passenger wheel, jack up car on passenger side front,set jack stand, remove passenger wheel, remove splash shield on the inner fender wall, loosen serpentine belts off the balancer, use an electric impact tool to remove crank bolt, use Lisle puller 45300 to remove harmonic balancer (Sears sells it). Installation is the reversal of the above steps. I used my inpact driver to set the crank bolt back on. I'm a 2-2.5 on the mech scale and it took me less than an hour! Be sure you put the belts back on straight...it'll squeal if you don't....ask me how I know!



A little late, but thanks for the thoughts anyway. Most electric impacts don't stand a chance if the crank bolt is properly torqued. 95% of the bolts out there will require a HIGH quality pneumatic impact or a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Edit:

Don't follow that YouTube video. That's the most dangerous method out there. Use the proper tools in the proper manner for removing the bolt.

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PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers


Last edited by willwren on Sun May 22, 2011 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 11:01 pm 
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willwren wrote:
Most electric impacts don't stand a chance if the crank bolt is properly torqued. 95% of the bolts out there will require a HIGH quality pneumatic impact or a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Yep, an electric impact did not work for me.

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1995 Bonneville SSE L36 Dark Polo Green Metallic **R.I.P. 4/28/10 236,400 miles**


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