Im going to do the UIM and LIM replacement. I am going to get...

APN UIM kit
GM LIM aluminum gaskets
elbows


Now, what else do i need/ should i do while i have it all off??

thanks

Brake parts cleaner - 2 or 3 cans
Shop rags
Two gallons of coolant if Dex is in there now, or if yours is more than three years old, otherwise save and re-use yours.
If you re-use your coolant, you will need a funnel and some panty-hose to use as a filter.
Heavy scraper
Thermostat housing gasket (paper)
Thermostat (180F)
Thermostat seal (rubber)
1/16" or 5/64" drill bit to drill thermostat flange
4 quarts of oil and a filter
Throttle body cleaner
Alcohol and Q-tips for MAF cleaning if needed
Silicone grease for o-rings
Vacuum cleaner
Valve cover gaskets if they are leaking
Blue threadlocker
3/8" drive deflecting beam torque wrench (2.5-ft-lb graduations) or inch-pound click torque wrench
Parts cleaning solvent or kerosene and a plastic pan
A couple of old toothbrushes (for throttle body cleaning)
Wire brush for cleaning up LIM and UIM bolts
From the dealer: a new o-ring for the tensioner to water pump nipple, and new vacuum fittings for the throttle body as needed

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1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

Bill wrote:
"From the dealer: a new o-ring for the tensioner to water pump nipple, and new vacuum fittings for the throttle body as needed"

???If the 96 is the same as my 99, I don't think he has that.

_________________
1999 SSE. 112k, Cleared Corners, Mobile 1, Energy Suspension endlinks. Ported and Polished LIM, NGK TR-55 Sparkplugs, 180 drilled Intense stat, Flow matched injectors, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, MagnaFlow Cat.

I am thinking the plastic tensioner elbow for the water pump was a change that occurred in 99. So, 95-98 use the o-ring on the aluminum nipple that is part of the tensioner assembly casting to make the connection to the water pump. The "help" kit gives you both plastic elbows and o-rings for ~$5. That's fine for the newer cars, but the older models, certainly the '96, may need that larger o-ring.

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1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

I just did my elbow a couple of months ago and I think they are the same and I used the Help kit. I have no leaks or issues. Other than that The 96 TB has 2 vacuum fittings, 97 and up only have one. the extra fitting on the 96 goes to the trans.

_________________

2007 Grand Prix GT L32
Poly endlinks, swaybar bushings and dogbone bushings. Drop in high flow air filter. Its a start!

2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (project BlackSheep) Bone stock for now, 5 spd and fun as hell! (Gf's Ride)
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten
1997 Dodge Ram Sport 4x4 5.9L The Beast!

OK, thanks for the list, it looks like it will be a few months to gather everything to make sure i am doing it right. just a few questions,

Drill the t stat housing??
would you suggest i flush the oil even though i dont think im leaking fluid?
Is the tourque wrench a necessity?
is there an in depth article that shows me how to do this. I see an artical in the tech section, but it doesnt go that far into the actual work

thanks

I copied this from a post on this forum and pasted it into a Word document. Now I've pasted it back here. I don't recall who posted it to begin with, but it is quite good. What's missing in this article is the mention of taking the tensioner off. There are just two bolts to remove the tensioner if you have already removed the alternator. Put the LIM in place and then install the tensioner with the elbows already in the tensioner. Lube the o-rings with dielectric (silicone) grease and they go right in. Much easier this way. Here is the article.

Drain coolant
- Use ¼ i.d. hose to put in radiator and drain into clean container for reuse.
Prep for UIM/LIM removal
-Remove battery (8mm and 1/2")
-Remove spark plug wires and boot heat shields from rear cylinders (2,4,6)
-Remove serpentine belt from alternator by rotating breaker counter clockwise to remove tension (15mm socket, breaker)
-Remove alternator support brace (??mm)
-Remove alternator mounting bolts (??mm)
-Remove alternator output nut and electrical connector (??mm)
-Remove alternator
-Disconnect MAP sensor harness from UIM
-Disconnect IAT sensor harness from bellows
-Remove airbox and bellows (Flat and phillips)
-Disconnect MAF, TPS and IAC sensor harnesses from TB
-Disconnect coolant temperature sensor from LIM
-Disconnect EGR harness from EGR valve
-Remove vacuum lines from TB and FPR
-Remove EVAP solenoid from bracket; move solenoid assembly out of the way (Flat)
-Remove accessory and brake booster vacuum lines from UIM
-Remove fuel rail nuts (10mm) \
-Remove injector wire connectors from injectors
-Remove fuel rail and tie up out of the way (Strap) Use a little WD-40 to get injectors to come out.
-Remove exhaust crossover--optional if have 8/10mm ratchet wrench to reach TB support bracket
-Remove CC and throttle cables from TB and bracket
-Remove TB support bracket (10mm)
-Remove TB (10mm)
Remove UIM
-Remove EGR heat shield (??mm)
-Move bundled harness(es) (IAT/MAF/TPS/IAC/EGR/injectors) out of the way
-Remove UIM bolts; remove UIM (8mm)
Remove LIM
-Remove remaining alternator bracketing from rear part of LIM (??mm)
-Remove EVAP solenoid bracket from front part of LIM (??mm)
-Remove EGR tube from LIM (10mm)
-Remove LIM bolts; remove LIM…coolant bypass elbow will break off (10mm)
Clean and prep block
-Stuff rags into all head ports, and place rag over lifter valley
-Pick broken coolant elbow bit out of tensioner (Flat)
-Remove old LIM gaskets and side seals from block; scrape area, clean with solvent (brake cleaner), and buff
(Now is a good time to inspect belt, hoses, and wiring harnesses)
(Also a good time to change plugs)
(Also a good time to change injector o-rings)
(Also a good time to inspect the valve cover gaskets for leakage)
(Also a good time to degrease the "hard-to-reach" parts of the block and tranny cover)
Clean and prep LIM
-Soak LIM bolts in solvent and wire brush threads
-Remove ECT sensor from LIM, being careful not to break plastic fitting (??mm)
-Pick broken coolant elbow bit out of LIM (flat)
-Remove stovepipe if replacing with aftermarket pipe (socket to fit inside, vise grips)
-Remove front coolant cap from LIM (10mm)
-Scrape away gunk from sealing surfaces, clean LIM with degreaser/solvent, and buff (again, use your favorite method)
-Examine LIM carefully for cracks, bad pitting and warpage (straightedge, magnifying glass)
-Replace front coolant cap with new gasket (10mm, 15 ft lb)
-Replace ECT sensor with thread sealer (??, 18 ft lb)
-Install stovepipe if replacing (hammer, socket on shoulder)
Clean and prep UIM
-Soak UIM bolts in solvent and wire brush threads
-Remove MAP sensor and PCV valve housing cover
-Remove vacuum fitting
-Clean inside LIM and runners with generous amounts of solvent/degreaser---it will be nasty
-Remove & discard main gasket, TB gasket, PCV o-ring, PCV valve, and vacuum fitting o-ring/seal
Replace LIM
-Remove rags from valley and head ports
-Place coolant bypass elbow into tensioner hole until seated (lube with anti-freeze OR vasiline if needed)
-Lay new LIM gaskets and new end seals in place; dab RTV in corners
-Lay down LIM, ensuring that bypass elbow seats fully in LIM and bolt holes and gaskets line up
-Place bolts and hand tighten (use blue threadlocker GM#12345493)
-Torque bolts, crosswise pattern, center to ends (10mm, 11 ft lb)
-Replace EGR tube into LIM (use blue threadlocker) (10mm, 21 ft lb)
-Replace EVAP solenoid bracket (use blue threadlocker) (??mm, 22 ft lb)
-Replace alternator bracketing (use blue threadlocker), ensuring fat wire harness goes under the armature (??mm, 22 ft lb)
Replace UIM
-Install new PCV valve and PCV housing o-ring
-Replace PCV housing cover and MAP sensor
-Replace vacuum fitting, using new o-ring/seal
-Install new TB gasket
-Insert runners into UIM
-Install new main gasket, ensuring J-tube hooked end points away from TB inlet
-Lay down UIM, ensuring EGR tube goes through hole in UIM and bolt holes line up
-Place bolts and hand tighten (use blue threadlocker)
-Torque bolts, crosswise pattern center to ends (8mm sock, 89 in lb)
-Reattach EGR heat shield (??mm, 12 ft lb)
Replace TB
-Replace TB on studs (use blue threadlocker on nuts; use red on rear nuts if studs are loose)
-Replace TB support bracket (use blue threadlocker, 10mm, 89 in lb)
-Reattach CC and throttle cables to TB and bracket
Drain oil
-Remove drain bolt and drain oil pan; catch oil in bucket (14mm, bucket)
-Remove filter and catch oil (bucket)
-Replace filter (AC Delco PF47)
-Replace drain bolt (14mm, 22 ft lb)
Replace other items
-Bring fuel rail down and attach harness connectors
-Install fuel rail, ensuring injectors are well-seated in LIM. Lube new rings with clean oil or Vaseline.
-Replace fuel rail nuts and torque (use blue threadlocker, 10mm, 89 in lb)
-Reattach accessory and brake booster vacuum lines on UIM
-Reattach EVAP solenoid on bracket
-Reattach vacuum lines to TB and FPR
-Reattach EGR harness to EGR valve
-Reconnect temperature sensor on LIM
-Reconnect MAF, TPS and IAC sensor harnesses on TB
-Replace airbox and bellows (flat and phillips)
-Reconnect IAT sensor harness on bellows
-Reconnect MAP sensor harness on UIM
-Make sure all harness wiring is properly re-loomed and re-anchored
-Reattach alternator bolts (use anti-sieze, ??mm, 37 ft lb)
-Reattach alternator contact (??mm, 15 ft lb)
-Reattach alternator bracket (use blue threadlocker, ??mm, 15 ft lb)
-Replace serpentine belt onto alternator pulley (15mm socket, breaker)
-Replace spark plug wires (use anti-moisture compound) with boot heat shields (use vaseline)
-Replace battery (use anti-moisture compound, 8mm , 1/2")
-Refill coolant (see Techinfo)
-Install new thermostat with new seal and new gasket (use blue threadlocker, 10mm, 20 ft lb)
-Install new radiator cap
-Refill oil
Checks
Start engine and allow to warm up; meanwhile:
-Check for coolant leaks at hoses, rad cap, bypass elbow, t-stat housing, LIM endcap, LIM gaskets, UIM gasket, TB gasket
-Check for oil leaks at filter and drain plug, LIM gaskets and LIM endcaps
-Test for vacuum leaks at all vacuum hoses and connections, PCV housing, TB-UIM, UIM-LIM and LIM-head interfaces
-Look for exhaust leaks at both ends of crossover pipe
-Watch for CEL codes
Test drive, then check everything again

_________________
1999 SSE. 112k, Cleared Corners, Mobile 1, Energy Suspension endlinks. Ported and Polished LIM, NGK TR-55 Sparkplugs, 180 drilled Intense stat, Flow matched injectors, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, MagnaFlow Cat.

hey, good deal thanks alot. I will save and print this a few times for when i need it.

No! drill the flange of the thermostat. That is the flat part of metal that surrounds the thermostat opening. The purpose is to provide an air bleed when the thermostat is installed.



yes


yes



The list provided here by Barry is excellent. Only a few little things missing.

However - it is NOT a good idea to buff sealing surfaces, especially on the softer aluminum LIM. Using abrasive discs or scotchbrite on the heads will result in abrasive particles dropped into moving parts of the engine. Never a good idea. And especially for the aluminum LIM, buffing or polishing can easily result in low spots that may not be apparent, but that will prevent proper gasket sealing.

_________________




1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

Just did a '97 on Saturday, and it had two vacuum fittings on the front side of the throttle body. Build date was 5/97.

_________________




1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

I was under the impression that 97 and newer had electronic trans and did not need the extra vacuum port. Thank you for setting me strait.

_________________

2007 Grand Prix GT L32
Poly endlinks, swaybar bushings and dogbone bushings. Drop in high flow air filter. Its a start!

2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (project BlackSheep) Bone stock for now, 5 spd and fun as hell! (Gf's Ride)
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten
1997 Dodge Ram Sport 4x4 5.9L The Beast!

You are right - they did get rid of the vacuum modulator. I'm just not sure when???

_________________




1998 3.8 Dodge Caravan 214K
2000 3.3 Dodge Caravan 175K
1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-dr sedan 25K (needs some work!)

So many parts on our cars have been revised or introduced half way into a model year

_________________

2007 Grand Prix GT L32
Poly endlinks, swaybar bushings and dogbone bushings. Drop in high flow air filter. Its a start!

2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (project BlackSheep) Bone stock for now, 5 spd and fun as hell! (Gf's Ride)
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten
1997 Dodge Ram Sport 4x4 5.9L The Beast!