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 Post subject: Detonation under boost
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:46 pm 
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Location: Brooklyn, New York
Year and Trim: 1995 SSEi
My first post here at new forum.
Car chocked and has bad detonation/knocking under boost.
When adding gas gently no detonation but when it start reaching area after 4 in boost gauge,it starts detonating.
And sometime it's like you have to play back and forth with gas pedal to find area when it starts accelerating and not hesitating under boost.
It has #5 cylinder misfire but it was there since I bought this car two years ago and there was no hesitation/detonatio/chocking.

Any idea where to look,what to clean etc? I was researching back on old forum some time ago but didn't find much in relation to my particular symptoms.

New spark plugs.
New wires.

I don't know why signature isn'r here. I did add it in my profile.

It's 1995 Bonneville SSEi

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:44 pm 
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if you have missfire on cyl 5, have you checked cyl 2? How about checking the resistance on the coils?

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 4:57 am 
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[quote="Wes"]if you have missfire on cyl 5, have you checked cyl 2? How about checking the resistance on the coils?[/quote

That would be too easy :)

Scanner shows misfire on #5 only.
Coils,ICM, PCM, fuel injectors - everything was swapped and rechecked.
It's something else with that misfire.
Right now I'm more concern about detonation/chocking .

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:28 am 
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Inspect carefully for vacuum leaks. Start the car and let it idle. Spray carb cleaner carefully around all the vacuum connections, the base of the supercharger, and where the LIM meets the heads. Also around the EGR (each end of the pipe from the valve to the LIM). When you find a leak, the carb cleaner will be sucked in and will combust, slightly changing the idle.

If you run lean under boost, it will cause your symptoms. In addition, it would be good to check your fuel pressure:

1. Key on (no start), wait two seconds for prime, key off, repeat 3 times. What's the pressure?
2. What's the pressure at idle?
3. What's the pressure with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR at idle?

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 1:35 pm 
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willwren wrote:
Inspect carefully for vacuum leaks. Start the car and let it idle. Spray carb cleaner carefully around all the vacuum connections, the base of the supercharger, and where the LIM meets the heads. Also around the EGR (each end of the pipe from the valve to the LIM). When you find a leak, the carb cleaner will be sucked in and will combust, slightly changing the idle.

If you run lean under boost, it will cause your symptoms. In addition, it would be good to check your fuel pressure:

1. Key on (no start), wait two seconds for prime, key off, repeat 3 times. What's the pressure?
2. What's the pressure at idle?
3. What's the pressure with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR at idle?



Fuel pressure was checked. Everything is as per FSM specification. I didn't check it while driving though,only at idle.
Maybe when pressing gas pedal sharply caused weak fuel pump not to deliver enough fuel?
I will recheck pressure and post it here.

LIM and supercharger gaskets where changed recently (a month ago or so). There is no leak there and this condition was present before changing gaskets and still present now, so I think that can be excluded.
I will re-check vacuum lines again more carefully. Maybe I missed something.
I don't know if it helps but will clean that ground bus under a carpet on driver's side. I think there is another on passenger's side. I'll be doing it tomorrow. Today I'm taking rest after night shift. Will post update after finishing .

Thanks for replying.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 2:00 pm 
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recently going through the ordeal of a weak pump, I can say from experiance, that just idle pressure is not sufficient. You must drive it to get an accurate reading.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Wes wrote:
recently going through the ordeal of a weak pump, I can say from experiance, that just idle pressure is not sufficient. You must drive it to get an accurate reading.


I will try to get reading while driving.
Dunno if that hose is long enough to be able to close a hood and find a place to check it without interruption of other cars.
It's a *dang* big city with a lot of cars. LOL

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:06 am 
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Ok. Kind of late response.
I couldn't do it sooner,was very busy.
Here is the pressure reading.

Pressure after three ignition On 39 PSI (allmost 40)
Pressure at idle 36 PSI
At idle, vacuum tube off FPR 41 PSI

When rev engine to 3000 RPM pressure rise to 39 - 40 PSI a moment ,then drop to 35- 36 .
Doesn't drop lower. I guess FPR does it's job.

Another scanner data,maybe usefull :

Fuel trim at idle 143

When rev engine fuel trim reading drop to 125.

One more question.
Is 13.3 volts a little too low at running engine ? When I turn lights on it even drop to 12.9 sometimes and isn't going higher than 13.1.
But isn't going lower either.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:38 am 
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Your fuel pump is shot. You should be reading 41 psi MINIMUM with no load.

Anything in the mid-30's or lower is just spooky. Stay out of the boost until you get it fixed, and if you're running a smaller than stock pulley, go back to stock now.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:42 am 
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:stupid: I had the same symptoms on my 96 and it ended up being the fuel pump internally eating itself away

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:50 am 
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Thanks for quick reply.
I guess you are right.
Next thing is to fix it.
How much is a reasonable $$ for pump and replacement job?
This one I won't be able to do by myself on the street like I did with LIM gasket,supercharger etc.

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