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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:30 pm 
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OK, I noticed the other day when I drove the wife's 03 SSEi, that the power window on the passenger side wouldn't work. Later I find the rear windows don't work either. Today the wife tells me that the power locks don't work on those three doors. The drivers side door works fine (lock and window and outside mirror). I also found that the pass side mirror doesn't work either. Thinking that we blew a fuse I pulled the back seat and checked the fuses for the rear door (Fuse 18) and the passenger door (fuse 25), both look good to me.

What else can be the problem?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:34 pm 
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You couldn't have described the problem better ;)

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25362

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 2:27 am 
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had same problem, that was exactly what was needed. Have fun though, and just a suggestion, give everything a really good cleaning while you have the seat(s) out.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:28 am 
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After I posted this thread, I did some searching and found that link you post harofreak. I thought, that's exactly what my problem is.

About 3 months ago we let our daughter use the Bonneville while we were gone. When we got home I noticed the drivers side carpet was wet and couldn't figure out why. Still not sure where the leak is, but I'll pull the seat and fix the wiring.

The heated seat on the drivers side quit working a couple years back and I think that I understand the problem there and how to fix it. So while the seat is out I'll try and tackle that one too.

Thanks for all the direction and help. I'll let you know how it all turns out.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:36 am 
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While everything is apart to fix the leak/wiring, it's a good opportunity to clean the interior up. :)

Glad to see you benefit from the forum! :beerchug:

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Last edited by SSEiMan01 on Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:26 am 
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How do the covers for the seat bolts come off? I looked at them but couldn't figure it out and I don't want to break them.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:28 am 
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Working on changing the plugs and wires right now, I hope to get to the seat a little later.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:42 am 
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Use a flat blade to pry them. You probably will break a one or two, they aren't really designed to be removed easily.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:14 am 
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OK, thanks for the advice. Plugs and wires done. Worst part was trying to get #6 wire off.

On to the wiring issue under the seat.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:38 pm 
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No corrosion on the connector. :banghead:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 2:08 pm 
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I am dumbfounded. There has to be another issue with the serial wiring that runs to the door modules. Did you see any other signs of water under the carpet?

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1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:14 pm 
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harofreak00 wrote:
I am dumbfounded. There has to be another issue with the serial wiring that runs to the door modules. Did you see any other signs of water under the carpet?


I totally agree. We have seen this problem so many times and it is always that connector right there. Maybe the wire is broken somewhere between that connection and the drivers door module...

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:25 pm 
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Not really any sign of water there at all.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:27 pm 
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I don't understand that connector anyway.....what does it do?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:34 pm 
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Just to make sure I read your first post right (which is very clear, one of the best explanations I have seen)

The mirror on the passenger door, and power locks as well as windows on all three passenger doors will not work at all no matter if you use the switches on their own doors or the main switch on the drivers door... correct?

On the drivers door, you can roll down your own window and operate the power door locks, but it only locks / unlocks the drivers door... correct?

As said in the topic that harofreak linked you to, the door modules communicate via that tan wire. Signals get sent back and forth from the three passenger door modules to the main drivers door module. If that wire is broken anywhere you could have problems with one, two, or all three of the passenger doors not working.

Do you have a multimeter? I would remove the door panel on the drivers door and check for continuity between that splice under the drivers seat and that wire where it goes into the drivers door module.

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2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

MattStrike wrote:
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:41 pm 
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Teebee03 wrote:
I don't understand that connector anyway.....what does it do?


Those tan wires are what the door modules use to communicate back and forth. These cars aren't like the old cars where things are simple - when the key is on, it sends power to your window switch.. when you push the switch it completes the circuit, power goes to the motor, and the window goes up or down.

On these cars, from a passenger door, if you hit a switch, a signal is sent from the switch module, to that door module, which then sends a signal through the serial bus line (tan wires) to the drivers door module. That module determines if the key is in the proper position to allow the window to roll up or down, it then sends a signal to either allow the window motor to have power. If that wire is broken, corroded, frayed, or anything else other then perfectly clean and intact, the signal will get lost and the passenger doors will not work.

That connector just ties the wires going to each door module together so they can communicate with each other.

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1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

MattStrike wrote:
It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!


Last edited by crash93ssei on Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:04 am 
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crash93ssei wrote:
Just to make sure I read your first post right (which is very clear, one of the best explanations I have seen)

The mirror on the passenger door, and power locks as well as windows on all three passenger doors will not work at all no matter if you use the switches on their own doors or the main switch on the drivers door... correct?

On the drivers door, you can roll down your own window and operate the power door locks, but it only locks / unlocks the drivers door... correct?

As said in the topic that harofreak linked you to, the door modules communicate via that tan wire. Signals get sent back and forth from the three passenger door modules to the main drivers door module. If that wire is broken anywhere you could have problems with one, two, or all three of the passenger doors not working.

Do you have a multimeter? I would remove the door panel on the drivers door and check for continuity between that splice under the drivers seat and that wire where it goes into the drivers door module.


Yes that is correct. Power mirror (on passenger side), power locks and windows do not work (passenger side and both back doors), whether I use drivers side controls or the controls on the door itself. The drivers side mirror, window and lock all work on that door.

Yes I have a multimeter. I am assuming that the wire in the door is the same color....yes?

So, please explain what the connector module does, because it appears that when fixing it, it is replaced with wire....right? Why didn't they just run the wires straight through instead of using this connector? I still don't understand what that little connector does.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:24 pm 
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Yes, the wire in the door is the same color. There is also a connector that goes to the door that you can use to verify continuity between that splice under the seat. Pull the plastic door sill plate up and you will see the connector up under the dash by the EBrake pedal. The wire there is still tan and you can test for continuity there. If that tests good, then next step I would take is pull the door panel and check for continuity between that connector and the connector on the drivers door module. There is two tan wires in the door harness after the door module, I don't remember what one, but one of them will have continuity to the connector under the dash, the other is a jumper to another spot in the door. If you have continuity there still, then I would begin to suspect the drivers door module.

That connector under the seat - one tan wire runs from one front door to the other, the second tan wire runs from one back door to the other. That connector simply connects the two wires together so that the door modules can communicate with each other.

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2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

MattStrike wrote:
It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 7:12 pm 
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I'm at the In-laws this weekend, I'll do some checking after we get home. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 5:48 pm 
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OK I found the wire near the parking brake pedal and checked it for continuity.......we are good there.

Would it be smart to go ahead and cut the wire and splice in a new piece even though there is no corrosion showing on that connector?


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