Hello. Just got a call from the mech. about my 02 ssei. It is not the dampener bushing that is making the loud knocking noise, it sounds like its internal, like the crankshaft. Previously, the car died in the car wash and had to push it out. It would not turn over. Started 3 hrs later and put in on a trailer to the mech. Now what?

Was it showing any signs of knocking before the car wash?

Sorry to say, but internal knocking is the sound of a new engine.

Where are you located?

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Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

I should clear something up. It is hammering, not knocking. Last week I had a new converter assembly put on to clear up some codes(can't remember which ones) and after about 100 miles, I got code P0243 wastegate solenoid. I have a crapsmen computer and it did not show this code all the time. I would show a service engine soon after deceleration but no code. I am not a mech. but not stupid either and am wondering if I spun a rod. It locked up in the car wash and started 3hrs later after it cooled off with the hammering now present. I have had the car 6 months and now have 154000 on it and just started doing the maint. that should have been done. I am located in SE North Dakota. Taking the car from this mech. to one I trust 2 hrs. away but would like some opinions. By the way, LOVE the site.

Is the sound from the top or bottom of the engine? Did it run hot or overheat?

Could be a spun bearing, but to determine for sure you may need to investigate. Put the car on stands or ramps and listen to the bottom end with a stethescope or screwdriver to the ear. Listen along the edge of the oil pan where the bolts are and see if you can locate the knock.

Also, P0243 is for the boost control solenoid, we do not have a wastegate. There is a solenoid and vacuum actuatr that controls the bypass for boost. They are located on the side of the SC near the TB.

Where in SE ND? I'm in central MN and shouldn't be too far away.

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Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

I am from Gwinner, ND. I will have it diagnosed tomorrow for sure with my TRUSTED mech. and update. In the meantime, I have found 2 options for a used engine. 1: T&A Salvage in Valley City, ND has one with 150,000 on it for $900 list (maybe $800 or better) or 2: SWEngines out of AL has one with 38,000 for $1245 shipped. Will do the LIM & UIM b/4 install on either regardless. Any opinions?

Have you looked on www.car-part.com? There are a lot of engines with less than 70k miles for less than $1k...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I have been hearing that the series 3 engine is not only cheaper, but more available. May want to look in to a swap? The basic mechanicals are the same, and only a few parts do not interchange.

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~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

The engine is toast. It looks like I blew a gasket and then lost a rod bearing. I think I'm better off with the cheaper engine that I can get my hands on TOMORROW. Any suggestions for the swap to look for and do besides the gaskets and other normal maint.? Thanks for the replies. Greatly appreciated.

Replace the LIM gaskets with the aluminum framed gaskets, and inspect the other gaskets, including the front and rear main seals, considering how hard they are to do w/ the engine in the car.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

What ever mileage motor you end up with, look at the internals before you buy if you can.
Even if you can only look at the rockers through the oil fill cap in the valve cover. Make sure that it's not a baked on brown/black look in there. If the oil was changed regularly it should still look pretty clean in there, even with some mileage on it.

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1999 Bonneville SE with the heart of a 07 Grand Prix