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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:46 pm 
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Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi
I tried searching for my answer and couldn't find anything. I have only had a SC Grand Prix before and the boost gauge was just the LED bar. This car that I just aquired (2000 SSEi) has the dial gauge, while idling and light driving the gauge reads well below 0. my guage reads in KPA with the range -70to 70 10psi to 10 psi. Anyway my question is where should I be sitting on the guage when idle/light throttle. The gauge does rise to 5-8psi under hard excelleration. Is this normal, is the guage fubar, or do I have mechanical issues. I still have 5000k warranty and would like to resolve this before the warranty is up. If it is problem.

Thank-you for the help
Gaylon


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:56 am 
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Location: Browerville, MN
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP
Your gauge is acting 100% normal. When idling/light acceleration, your car is not using any boost, its under vacuum, thats why the gauge shows less than 0. The actual gauge is much nicer to have compared to the GP's worthless attempt. Under WOT, you should be seeing 5-8lbs, just as you are. Start modding and you can peg that gauge :twisted:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:01 pm 
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2000 SSEi *SOLD*
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Gaylon, i had the same issue, i thought my SC wasnt working when it was below 0 at idle. But members from here told me that the most it can go when you floor the gas pedal is like 7. Like Harofreak said, if you mod that bad boy, you can peg it. I havent moded anything yet, but am planning on doing a little some some here and there. I just dont have the money know.

I was wondering, what are the simpliest mods that are common for a 2000 SSEi. I just want to mod simple stuff, nothing big. Harofreak, i know you must know alot about this so can you tell Gaylon and I what to start with and how much are the estimate prices for them.

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*SOLD* 2000 SSEi | Midnight Blue Metallic | 120k
Supercharged decal 3rd brake light | Mostly stock| black leather interior | One of a Kind Tails | Custom SSEi Overlay | Painted Grille | Tints 20%(back) 35%(front)
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** NEW PIC's **----->: http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12985


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:14 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1997 Bonneville SSEi
180* thermostat, $10 or so
Gutted air box, cost of filter, about $50 or so.
Pulley change, 3.5" about $60 need a puller or know someone close with one.
PCM upgrade, $100 plus case learn.

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Mods, CAI, Gatorback SC belt, 180 deg. thermostat, sparkplugs 2 colder gapped @ .050, 3.1" MPS, intense™ PCM, AeroForce scan gauge, Flowmaster series 80 muffler, 3" Magnaflow cat , INTENSE™ Street/Strip Performance Shift Pak, 1.9:1 roller rockers, Oil Restricted pushrods, CompCam #105 springs, CompCam heavy duty spring retainers and valve locks, 17" wheels, 245/45 FirehawkGT tires,slotted rotors, cermaic pads, Wideband O2, MSD Blaster coils, MSD 8.5mm sparkplug wires, Stainless steel TOG headers, HP tuner, P&P LIM and supercharger, SSIC
Getting ready to install cowled hood, Project on hold!
Objects in mirror are loosing!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:47 pm 
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Location: Fairfax, MN
Year and Trim: 2009.1 G8 GT
2005 GXP
00ssei wrote:
I was wondering, what are the simpliest mods that are common for a 2000 SSEi. I just want to mod simple stuff, nothing big. Harofreak, i know you must know alot about this so can you tell Gaylon and I what to start with and how much are the estimate prices for them.


Please, don't jack this thread. Start a new thread and ask again.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 12:11 am
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Location: Detroit ,MI
Year and Trim: 2005 SLE

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2000 GP GT *SOLD*
your always, coming onto me dude. Get off. :angry4: your the only one tracking my posts and always say "stop jacking his thread" well, its none of you bizness to be saying that. [-X Its not your thread so shutup. If gator70(gaylon) had a problem with it, he would of told me or post it, so you should stop coming on to me like that.

I was just posting a similiar prob i had which you do and alot of other members do. Plus that info will also help gator70.

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*SOLD* 2000 SSEi | Midnight Blue Metallic | 120k
Supercharged decal 3rd brake light | Mostly stock| black leather interior | One of a Kind Tails | Custom SSEi Overlay | Painted Grille | Tints 20%(back) 35%(front)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
** NEW PIC's **----->: http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12985


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:30 am 
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Location: Browerville, MN
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP
Both of you are out of line.

Beast, you are not a Moderator, so don't act like one. That's what the "Report this Post" button is for.

00ssei, your attitude is not appreciated. You are posting off topic, boost pressure has nothing to do with first mods. Check Techinfo for first mod suggestions.

Both of you, don't post anymore in this topic.

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2004 Bonneville GXP | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod
2005 Town & Country Limited | Butane Blue Metallic | 200k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 150k | Official Bonneville Hauler


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:31 pm
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Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi
Thanks guys, if I drop to the 180 thermostat, will I still get enough heat for our frigid winters up here? Are the cat's the only real exhaust upgrade that I need to do. I have briefly looked around and haven't found a cat-back setup.

Gaylon


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:53 am 
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Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi
Sorry me again, thanks for the info on the SC gauge, it always worries me when I buy a new vehicle. Its nice to know that it is running right. I tend to get a little particular with my vehicles, I like them to be running like new.
Gaylon


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:07 pm 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi and 1994 SSEi
Ah, you are just like most of us Gaylon. :laughing3:

Got to have it running and looking just right. :)

I live in a similar climate to you......well maybe a little warmer. :P

You might run into problems with your car throwing an SES light if you switch to the 180 stat and drive less than 20 minute trips in cold weather. There is a built in trouble algorythm in the computer to tell you if the thermostat is stuck open. If it takes longer than a certain amount of time for the engine to warm up to 180 F then it trips the service code. It can be programmed out but that will cost you the loss of your computer for two weeks cause we're in Canada :roll: (and vehicle if you don't have a spare) and $150.
You can fool it by intalling a ZZP sensor for $50 :wink:

I think you can safely switch to the 180 as long as you don't drill a hole larger than 1/16"
Do some research in the Forum archives and Techinfo to see what I'm talking about.

Happy modding and I can't wait to hear your first response if and when you get to pop on a 3.4" pulley. :twisted:

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 69,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42#, Fuel pump voltage increase, WB O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, 255/50WR17, timing commander, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
1994 SSEi - SilverGoose, stock - 211,000 km - 180 Stat, K&N Filter, Super light 16" Alero wheels, clear corners, tinted tails, drilled & slotted rotors, ceramic pads and a new fuel pump - (March 2014 Car of the month)


Last edited by 2000Silverbullet on Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:05 pm 
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If you switch to the drilled 180, and you have trouble warming up, just go ahead and switch it to an undrilled 180. It'll warm up pretty quick, but won't get you much over 180. That's plenty of temp to run your heater hot enough to blowdry with.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:10 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1997 Bonneville SSEi
I'm in Wisconsin, and it gets flippin cold here. I'm running a undrilled 180* with no problems at all.

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Mods, CAI, Gatorback SC belt, 180 deg. thermostat, sparkplugs 2 colder gapped @ .050, 3.1" MPS, intense™ PCM, AeroForce scan gauge, Flowmaster series 80 muffler, 3" Magnaflow cat , INTENSE™ Street/Strip Performance Shift Pak, 1.9:1 roller rockers, Oil Restricted pushrods, CompCam #105 springs, CompCam heavy duty spring retainers and valve locks, 17" wheels, 245/45 FirehawkGT tires,slotted rotors, cermaic pads, Wideband O2, MSD Blaster coils, MSD 8.5mm sparkplug wires, Stainless steel TOG headers, HP tuner, P&P LIM and supercharger, SSIC
Getting ready to install cowled hood, Project on hold!
Objects in mirror are loosing!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:00 pm 
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Location: Browerville, MN
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danthurs wrote:
I'm in Wisconsin, and it gets flippin cold here. I'm running a undrilled 180* with no problems at all.


But you have a PCM designed to run on a 180 stat

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:26 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1997 Bonneville SSEi
I sure do. But I ran for a while without that. I did have a fair amount of flucuation when not moving. But still had no problem heating up.

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Mods, CAI, Gatorback SC belt, 180 deg. thermostat, sparkplugs 2 colder gapped @ .050, 3.1" MPS, intense™ PCM, AeroForce scan gauge, Flowmaster series 80 muffler, 3" Magnaflow cat , INTENSE™ Street/Strip Performance Shift Pak, 1.9:1 roller rockers, Oil Restricted pushrods, CompCam #105 springs, CompCam heavy duty spring retainers and valve locks, 17" wheels, 245/45 FirehawkGT tires,slotted rotors, cermaic pads, Wideband O2, MSD Blaster coils, MSD 8.5mm sparkplug wires, Stainless steel TOG headers, HP tuner, P&P LIM and supercharger, SSIC
Getting ready to install cowled hood, Project on hold!
Objects in mirror are loosing!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:27 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonneville SSEi
The "problem" is DTC P0128 which monitors how long it takes the coolant temperature to reach the thermostat regulating temperature. If it does not meet the preset criteria, the service engine soon light is lit, and that code is stored. I don't believe that code existed prior to 2000. This is a brief description.

The PCM monitors total accumulated air flow to determine if the engine run time is sufficient to reach engine operating temperature. If the coolant temperature does not increase normally or does not reach the regulating temperature of the thermostat, diagnostics that use engine coolant temperature as enabling criteria, may not run when expected. If engine coolant fails to reach a preset target temperature before a calculated air flow is accumulated P0128 will set.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:17 pm 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
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Mine used to set that code all the time before I had the PCM reprogrammed. I simply cleared it with my cheapo scan tool. It really doesn't harm the engine in any way. It's just used as a diagnostic tool. :wink:

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 69,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42#, Fuel pump voltage increase, WB O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, 255/50WR17, timing commander, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
1994 SSEi - SilverGoose, stock - 211,000 km - 180 Stat, K&N Filter, Super light 16" Alero wheels, clear corners, tinted tails, drilled & slotted rotors, ceramic pads and a new fuel pump - (March 2014 Car of the month)


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