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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:37 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
i know this is a embarrasing question for me but i cant seem to find it. i changed it once on my 88 sse but that was like 2 yrs ago and i cant rember where it is.. im doing a fulle tune and cant find the darn pcv valve..

any ideas ? thanks.. lol.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:43 pm 
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It might be on a valve cover. Look for a hose leading to a valve cover.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:46 pm 
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In the intake manifold right behind the belt tensioner. It is a pain in the butt. Under the cables about half way between the ps pump and alt.

In this area:

Image


Last edited by myfirstbonnie on Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:08 am
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
In the intake manifold right behind the belt tensioner. It is a pain in the butt. Under the cables about half way between the ps pump and alt.

In this area:

Image



would i have to remove the alt and ps pump to get to it..? or should i be able to squeeze in there somehow.. im going out in about 20 minutes to go and try to get it done.. its the last part of my full tune up..
then when i get time on tuesday im doing a filter and fluid change on the trans... how that goes well..


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:12 pm 
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You can get to it if you pull the plug wires up and over and remove the alt to free up some room. It is pretty much right under that bend in the fuel rail in my picture. The thing to watch for is dry rubber. When I did my teardown, the grommet that seals it in the intake crumbled on me. I had to find a similar replacement at Napa. There is also a rubber hose that connects to the other end of the valve and goes into the plenum portion of the intake.


Last edited by myfirstbonnie on Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:24 pm 
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Here is a picture from my FSM that shows a little better picture of where it is. Item #1

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:35 pm 
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
o.k i found it but it was not by the ps pump and alt.. it was in the intake manifold right behind the front valve cover..

but i ended up ripping the rubber hose trying to get it off and i also can not get the old pvc valve out..

is there a trick to do it..? is it just supposed to pull out.. ? i turned and turned and its not a screw on one..

bujt it just wont come out/?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:38 pm 
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There is just a ridge on the valve and a grommet in the intake. These cars are old and the rubber is dried out and will be fragile. The part that sucks is that you will not be able to go to Napa or Auto Zone and get an exact replacement.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:31 pm 
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Location: allentown pa
Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
replaced pcv valve and car wont start..

things i have done in the last 2 days are

replaced plugs, wires, air filter, pcv valve, water pump, crank shaft sensor. and cleaned maf with maf cleaner.

belt broke and when it did it took out my crank sensor.. i bought a new one and put it on.. it does not seem like the fins from the balancer are hitting it and it seems to want to turn over but it wont..?

any ideas.? i need this car running by tiesday as my wife starts a new job.. thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:30 am 
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Check the connection to the crank sensor, the connection to the ICM, and make sure the plug wires are on correctly. Are you getting spark to the plugs?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:01 pm 
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1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
Check the connection to the crank sensor, the connection to the ICM, and make sure the plug wires are on correctly. Are you getting spark to the plugs?


im getting pretty good spark at the ignition coils.. all 3 of them.. im getting fuel at the rail..

i even tied starting fluid in the intake but it still did not start..

checked all wires for the crank sensor and they are o.k..

a neighbor of mine said it sounds like the timing is off..?

when i start the car it cranks and sounds like it wants to start but then it chokes and he said it sounds like somethings goes back or backwards..? i cant rember..


any other suggestions or ideas..? thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:07 pm 
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Did you do plug wires recently? Could you have possibly mixed a few up? Also, does this have 3 cylinders per coil or 2? It could be the ICM or the coils. If you have any local junkyards you could probably find 3 good coils and an ICM from a newer car for cheap and throw them in.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
00Beast wrote:
Did you do plug wires recently? Could you have possibly mixed a few up? Also, does this have 3 cylinders per coil or 2? It could be the ICM or the coils. If you have any local junkyards you could probably find 3 good coils and an ICM from a newer car for cheap and throw them in.



did the plugs and wires yesterday.. checked them 5 times over.. they are correct and the plugs are gapped correctly..

and all 3 coils are giving me very good spark.. plus i tried another 3 i had.. still wont start..


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:07 pm 
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Take a small lamp (194 etc) and bend the tabs and stick in one of the injector plugs. Turn the car over and see if the light flashes. Since you replaced the crank position sensor, I am wondering if you are getting injector pulses. Even though you have fuel at the rail does not mean the injectors are firing. If light doesn't blink, check the fuses.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:57 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
Take a small lamp (194 etc) and bend the tabs and stick in one of the injector plugs. Turn the car over and see if the light flashes. Since you replaced the crank position sensor, I am wondering if you are getting injector pulses. Even though you have fuel at the rail does not mean the injectors are firing. If light doesn't blink, check the fuses.



do you mean to take the plug off the injector and then stick in the light bulb..?

and i checked all the fuses and they are all good..


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:58 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
Take a small lamp (194 etc) and bend the tabs and stick in one of the injector plugs. Turn the car over and see if the light flashes. Since you replaced the crank position sensor, I am wondering if you are getting injector pulses. Even though you have fuel at the rail does not mean the injectors are firing. If light doesn't blink, check the fuses.



do you mean to take the plug off the injector and then stick in the light bulb..?

and i checked all the fuses and they are all good..


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:00 pm 
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Yes, the bulb should blink with the injector pulses.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:36 pm 
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1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
Yes, the bulb should blink with the injector pulses.



o.k i just got back from walmart and picked up a lightbulb.. i did what you said on 2 different injector plugs and the light did flash..

so that means the injectors are working right.. and i checked all fuses under the steering wheel and all are good..

so im at a lost on why the car wont start..

i took off the oil cap fron the valve cover and tried to start the car and the rods or lifters what ever they are called did move up and down so its not the timing belt..

please help with any other ideas or suggestions.. thanks.. this is a huge thing to get this car running..


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 12:00 am 
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First off, we have a timing chain and it is very rare for that to be a problem in your case. Is the cam position sensor and connector all intact?

So, if I understand correctly, you lost the serentine belt which took out the crank position sensor. You replaced those and put plugs and wires on it,and a new PCV valve, cleaned the MAF and now it will not start.

Check the connections to the MAF and even try to start it with the MAF unplugged. Did you gap the plugs to the correct gap? Did you do anything with the TPS?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 12:14 am 
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Year and Trim: 1988 sse - 80,000 on the clock and my first car...

1995 se wit da sle package- 120,000 on the clock and ticking stronger then ever...
myfirstbonnie wrote:
First off, we have a timing chain and it is very rare for that to be a problem in your case. Is the cam position sensor and connector all intact?

So, if I understand correctly, you lost the serentine belt which took out the crank position sensor. You replaced those and put plugs and wires on it,and a new PCV valve, cleaned the MAF and now it will not start.

Check the connections to the MAF and even try to start it with the MAF unplugged. Did you gap the plugs to the correct gap? Did you do anything with the TPS?



did nothing with the tps.
tried to start the car with maf unplugeed and tried switching the maf with another one.
checked the connections and wires on cam sensor and they seem to be good..


and yes you are correct about loosing my belt and doing everything else you mentioned..

also to be said.

i was driving about 30mph and heard/felt a thump and about a half a block away my car just died so i pulled it over and tried to restart it.. for about 10 minutes it would not start.. then finally it started but turned off when i stepped on the gas..

so i towed it home and noticed the the crank sensor was snapped in half and half of my belt was wrapped around the back of my harmonic balancer.. so i removed it and replaced the crank sensor with a new one..

the car then started right up and ran fine in park but as soon as i put it in drove or reverse it will automatically die within 20 seconds.. it would sould like it would hesitate and then stall..

so then i took off the harmonic balancer and checked the cranks sensor to make sure it was not being hit by the fins of the harmonic balancer. the sensor looked fine so before i tried to start it up again i replaced the spark plugs and wires.
i replaced the pvc valve and air filter then i cleaned both maf's i had with maf cleaner.

then tried to start the car and it would not even start since i did all of this..

the plugs are gapped to 0.45 like the specs say on the sticker right above the radiator.

and i went over the firing order 3 times to make sure it is correct and i also even tried putting the old spark plug wires back on with no avail and i even tried changing the coil paks. all 3 of them..

still wont start.. it will crnak and choke but thats all..

it wont crank and crank and crank. it will crank for about 5 seconds then sound like it chokes and stop doing anhthing untill i turn the key again..


i been at this car since tuesday of last week for about 5 hours a day and cat figure anything out.. its gotten me to that pint of ripping my hair out..


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