Curts '62 Galaxie (as of 7-3-09)

[PRD2BDF]

Go for it

[clm2112]

Here's a change of pace... instead of hijacking this thread, I hijacked the entire project

Brad found himself being spread a bit thin...like too little jam on toast. So, I'm going to buy the '62 Galaxie and take the project in a little different direction. The goals for the car are similar...clean the car up and use it as a driver. No trailer queen restoration, just fix what is bent and broke.

The car isn't coming to my home initially. I've lined up a fellow in Daytona who does nice restoration work on old cars. I'm going to send the car directly to him to address all the bodywork and trim. I figure that will be a six month task. I'll be gathering up the driveline and mechanical parts in the interim (as well as wrap up my own projects...like the '87 Camaro and the boat project.)

Changes:

The engine will be a roller cam 302. Pretty easy decision, I already have a complete engine and a second short block that have been rebuilt. E303 Cam, 0.030 overbore, Hyperutectic flat top pistons, iron E7TE heads, dual plane squarebore manifold, Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb, Duraspark distributor, stainless shorty headers. Your basic hopped up mid 80's Mustang motor. If I like the car and end up keeping it for a few years, I'll finish the second motor like a early 90's F-150 EFI motor.

Transmission will also follow the Mustang mold: Borg Warner T5. Probably with a hydrualic throw-out bearing instead of trying to use stock Galaxie clutch linkages with the Z-bar arrangement. Another possibility is possibly a T56, though the T5 is a simpler and cheaper arrangement.

Last, the front drum brakes have got to go, so a disk brake conversion is on the shopping list.

I figure this will take a year and probably run about $8000. Less than building an AC Cobra and avoids the legal issues of driving it on the street.

[sandrock]

The drum brake setup was also on my list to get axed. You will need to source mid-70's T-Bird or Grenada spindles, the rest is easy to get but I forget what cars to source from. I found that the electric fan assembly from Dons van will fit the radiator assembly perfectly, BUT...if you are going with the 302, you will need another radiator as the factory one uses the external expansion tank that bolts directly to the intake manifold on the old FE motors. Also, I know of a guy in Orlando that has a few Galaxies that had manual trannies, so he might be your best source for pedal assemblies and the two-door XL center console should you want one to put in it.

Honestly, I'd much rather see Curt with this car than anyone else. This Gal has much potential and is in relatively good shape, even it being in pieces right now (which makes things easier for the bodyman and for you Curt for the engine and trans transplant). It's gonna take me a few trips going up to Daytona to get all the pieces to you over time...I have pieces everywhere, even in my sons room

[clm2112]

I've been reading up on the front disk conversions. Following the write-up on FordMuscle using 77 Granada or Thunderbird spindles with all the related parts runs about $600 and requires sourcing a used pair of spindles. There are also three vendors that sell kits to accomplishes the same thing (SSBC, DFproducts, and MasterPower) using all new parts for about $600 to $1100. Some include a new booster and master cylinder and proportioning block. I figure I'll budget $1000 for the conversion and do the hard lines in stainless steel while the body is off the frame. I also need to consider replacing the rims, since just about everybody is telling me stock rims don't fit with disk calipers. I'm thinking of old style Cragar or Keystone rims...something a 1960's hotrod would be wearing.

The fellows at work have already made their suggestions...some of which don't deserve consideration. One fellow thinks I should turn it into a low-rider (air bags, wire basket rims, etc.)....I suggested he attend therapy.

Bill Ellis in Daytona has the ability to work on the body off the frame (he got a Falcon on the rack right now) so while he is doing that, the frame can come home for doing the brakes, fuel lines, motor mounts and driveshaft. Then take it all back to his shop for the final assembly.

Expansion tank for the radiator is an off the shelf item. I've got a choice of a reproduction 289 tank that mounts on the engine, just like the original, or an aftermarket catch can that mounts to the body or off the back of the radiator. I'll cross that bridge a little later. I thinking the car should look like what some kid with a base model would have done to the car to race it in the late 1960's..so nothing really modern showing up in it.

[sandrock]

Yeah, you will need to find new rims for it when you do the conversion. I was thinking Crown Vic PI rims with poverty caps, or the newer Mustang Bullet rims which have that Cragar look to them. Frame-off, huh? Won't take much now...just undo the steering column and the body mounts, and off it comes.

You will need to either locate a new fuel tank, or go fuel cell. I crawled up under there one day and found the tank had been bondo'd, and is now weeping a bit. Fuel sender also needs to be repaired.

[clm2112]

the newer Mustang Bullet rims

That's one of the canidates. American Racing sells a copy, even with the matte gray spoke & center section. The classic Cragar SS is probably my first choice. These would have been brand new in 1965, and would have been a typical choice for a 60's hotrodder.

Frame work, beyond cleaning, might include boxing the channels. I have to give that some though. It was standard on the station wagon and convertible cars, but it adds even more weight. Long term it is probably a good tradeoff if it stiffens the frame up for the next 40 years. (I'm thinking about Carolyn's driving years from now.)

Fuel tank is something I thought about as well. Probably splurge on a stainless replacement tank with a sump and a return line. I don't need that to run a carb, but it will come in handy should I later decide to use fuel injection. I don't care for the idea of putting a fuel cell in..it kinda overkill on a car that isn't going to ever see a race track, plus it takes up more space than the stock tank (or holds less fuel if I stay within the stock tank dimensions.)

[2000Silverbullet]

It will be a fun project but be careful, every one of my projects cost about twice as much as I originally thought......$8K----> $16K

[clm2112]

Nah, I'm pretty good at estimating the costs. I may miss by 10%, but I usually come in low so long as I stick to the plan. But even if the car ends up at $10-12K, it still would be in line for what a restored car goes for in this area. I'm not trying to win car show trophies...I'm looking to drive it.

Not trying to stick with the stock FE motor is a blessing. Initial cost and long term usage costs by using the 302 are so much lower, even though I'm giving up about 60hp (still comes in a rated power higher than the base model inline 6 cylinder.) Also lighter in weight.

Worst case on the bodywork is about $2500 in replacement parts. Less if I opt to use fiberglass fenders instead of steel.

[sandrock]

There won't be much to replace aside from bumpers and possibly the drivers fender that got fooked sometime in its life. The radiator core support I was able to bend back into shape, though it does need a finishers touch. Shaving the emblems and the stainless trim will save some cash too.

The rear gear is 3:1, so keep that in mind when you choose the gears for the trans.

[01bonneSC]

Ditch the E7 heads, they suck. You and ur motor would be much happier with after-market, or late 60s-early 70s iron heads if budget constrains, although getting those to run roller rockers will cost about as much as just buying aftermarket.

[clm2112]

Not sure I can agree with that. The pair of new E7FE heads, ready to install, was $300. There's no aftermarket head made that can match that price point. This motor needs to run with a carb and on 87 octane gas. From my perspective, stock iron heads are the way to go. Casting looked pretty good as well (smooth runners, minimal casting flash) Just had to plug the AIR ports and install. Not expecting much more than 200hp out of the motor.

[Blownville]

Not sure I can agree with that. The pair of new E7FE heads, ready to install, was $300. There's no aftermarket head made that can match that price point. This motor needs to run with a carb and on 87 octane gas. From my perspective, stock iron heads are the way to go. Casting looked pretty good as well (smooth runners, minimal casting flash) Just had to plug the AIR ports and install. Not expecting much more than 200hp out of the motor.

I haven't been on in a while and just caught up on this post. I am building a 66 Falcon and I am also using a late model 302 out of an 88 Mustang. It was rebuilt about 10K miles ago and is completely stock. I did some reasearch on the B,E, and F303 cams and found that there is little to be gained if I was to swap to one due to my stock heads. I would love to know how well yours runs with the alphabet cam you are using. I also feel you should be putting out closer to 235-250HP with that combo as the stock roller motors produce 225HP stock. I am leaving mine stock due to the major expenses of all the parts I needed just to get the motor ready for the older setup and have some flash to it. I plan to do a write-up on it but want to wait till I have more progress on it. I currently only need a set of pullies and everything under the hood is complete, but since the motor and trans are out I need to replace all the floors. Once that is done I will start showing my progress. Keep up the the awesome details!!

[clm2112]

Yeah, my estimate is intentionally conservative (hey, it's me, whaddaya expect ) But I figure I'm running a better shortblock and roller cam of a late 80's efi motor, but saddling it with a 600 cfm carb. It may or may not breath as well as the factory efi 302...but I figure it will perform no worse than my estimate. Around 200hp/180 lb-ft should be enough to move this car around while still doing OK on gas milage thanks to the low displacement and overdrive gear.

Much as I would like to put a pair of AFR heads on the motor, there's just no money in the budget for it. I've still got an identical 302 roller cam motor in the short-block stage as a backup. Once the car is up and running, I might finish the 2nd motor with better heads if I can scrounge an extra $1200 somewhere down the line. Until then, I'll just keep it wrapped up in it's plastic baggie.

Still picking the car up tomorrow. U-Haul confirmed they have the dolly waiting for me tomorrow morning, Brad wants it out of his garage, and the restoration guy is ready for the car to show up at his shop. For better or worse, away we go!

BTW, on your 302, what are your plans for the accessory drive...going with V-belts, Serpentine, or some aftermarket arrangement? It's an issue I have to address as well and would like to hear how you are resolving it. I'm only going with two accessories...alternator (probably a GM SI one wire style) and a power steering pump (Saginaw P-series would be preferable, but anything goes.)

The engine bay is going to end up being super-clean...probably with room to climb in next to the engine The big regulator Brad pointed out goes away. Ignition is a Duraspark II module, pretty small unit. I'm going to try and keep the firewall as clear of stuff as possible. I've also got a GM HEI style distributor... I may give that a try before using the Duraspark distributor. Both have steel drive gears for use with the roller cam.

[Blownville]

Ok as for mine I am also running an HEI dist. I have a 70 front cover that came off the motor that was in the car, and I picked up a 80 aluminum water pump. I bought a new balancer and flexplate for the 50oz. balance. I had 70 pullies but didn't like the setup and gave them with the other motor. I am planning to get the Gilmer Belt drive so I do not have any belt slip like I had on my Ranchero. I realize some people may not like the blower size pulleys and belt but I love them and dont want to spent $200 on March pulleys. I have a chrome Tuff stuff 100amp alt. and I picked up a billet alt mount kit on Ebay. However the alt. mount kit wont work! So I have to just use the threaded adjustable rod end and lower bolt and mount it to the passenger side. That is the same way I had it on my Ranchero. I am running a performer RPM and a rebuilt (by me first time!!) Holley 600cfm universal. I also have long tube headers and will be running 3 inch Flowmaster 40's. As for your carb setup I have to disagree and say you will be making more power with that carb. either way although you would be able to run a 650 dbl pumper with a stick for sure cause I have done it in my 85GT I used to have. The motor was a stock 90 motor with only milled heads and Weiand action plus. In my Ranchero I had a .060 over 302 with 9.5 compression GT40P heads and a 262 cam with 480 lift. I was running a performer RPM air gap and Holley 600cfm universal carb. That motor made right around 325HP and ran very strong. I would post a pic of my current motor when I get home from work but only if you would like. I don't want to hijack any threads.

[clm2112]

I don't want to hijack any threads.

HiJack Away! Let's see it as I needs some ideas

[Blownville]

Ok I dont have the pulleys yet though as I need to come up with the $130 for them. I will post some pics when I get home tonight and just an FYI the belt drive I am getting has a groove in the back of the pulley to run power steering off of with a V-belt. I am only running an alternator and that is all I need.

[Blownville]

Ok here is a few pics of my motor. The water pump and alt are just loosely threaded on to give you an idea. Sorry that they are a little blurry I don't know what happened there. THe one shot of the heater hose outlet is the $23 fitting I had to buy in order to run this dist.


Here is a link to the Gilmer belt drive video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PVplALM1Tk






And the motor pics enjoy............

[clm2112]

That looks pretty good. That HEI looks exactly like the one I found out on ebay two years ago. I didn't keep the generic module, I went ahead in installed an MSD digital module with a rev limiter in it.

Just curious if there any caveats when using the different harmonic balancer styles (3 bolt vs. 4 bolts)...you know, stuff like you find out on Chevy's when dealing with Short Water Pumps vs. Long water pumps. Or did Ford do it the smart way and keep the lineup of the balancer and water pump throughout production (even though they switched from 3 bolts to 4 on the balancer.)

And the gilmer style belt drive is pretty cool. Just listening to the video I kept looking for the supercharger to go with the whine of the belt.

[Blownville]

Thanks! I have been working very hard to get it the way I want it. As for the harmonic balancer I think there are differences as I have found some posts on machining some thousandths off of the crank pulley. Yeah that Gilmer drive is awesome and sounds pretty cool too even though there is no whine, but hey what are Bonnevilles for right! Lol! Do you happen to have a link to that MSD module? I never knew they had built in rev limiters! Thats awesome!

Some other things to note that you may or may not know but this is useful for others would be that the Ford 289/302 used about 6-7 different front covers and like the same amount of water pumps. There is a difference in the balancer and flexplates/flywheel that changed in 1980. The 79 and down use a 28oz internal balance and the 80 and up used a 50oz external balance. With the dist. I got lucky and almost screwed because I was originaly going to use the 1980 302 that was in the car and had a cast iron cam gear. I instead bought the 88 306 with a roller cam. After I got the dist. I almost forgot about the gear. I looked at the gear on the dist. and it looked different than that of a cast iron gear, but I was unsure and didn't want damage. So I took it to my local performance shop and found out it is a hardened steel as the Ebay auction stated. The bad thing is if I would have just stuck it in the old 80 motor I would have ruined the cam gear!! Whew!! Dont forget about the air tube holes. They make plugs that I think are called Thermactor plugs that plug the holes. Ok one last thing about the pulleys. I had 1970 pulleys and alt. brackets that had a two groove setup. I will post a pic of the old motor below. They had the inner belt going around the water pump and the crank! The outer belt went around the waterpump, crank, and alternator. I dont know why they had the inner belt slipped on to just the waterpump and crank. Thats why I want the Gilmer drive. It will look good sound good and I won't have any belt slip. Ok that is about all I can think of for now. If you have any more questions let me know.

[clm2112]

The HEI module is an MSD 83645. They are sold for circle track racing.



I've got the 50oz Flywheel and 4-bolt 50oz imbalance harmonic balancer on the first motor (the one I want to use because it's the closest to completion.) Had the rotating assembly balanced using the the flywheel and balancer on it, so I'd like to avoid changing them. I've noticed a plethora of different water pump styles available for the 302...wasn't sure what I would need to match up with both the radiator inlet/outlet setup and line up the pulleys.

Timing cover I'm using is an aluminum replacement with the fuel pump boss, front dipstick hole, and timing tab at about 10 o'clock. Looks like it's right for the balancer since the marks line up at TDC #1 on the motor. The other cover I had was cast iron and came off the PCM marine 302 that came out of the boat. It was too far gone to reuse, but was in a different configuration (I guessing that it's a 79 or older setup even though the motor was assembled in 1987....water pump inlet was on the opposite side, 3 bolt 28oz imbalance harmonic balancer.)