Hi StraTact,

I'll get pictures when I have a chance.

By the way, I need a torque converter too...

Any known-good brand that could be recommended here?

Thanks.

Taking notes… However, the mods I am looking for are more intended to increased life and reliability than performance. Therefore I need to make sure it helps this goal (let me know if I am misunderstanding and how: I want to learn :) ).

Sure, If I can get a few ponies out of it, I will not complain ...

The suspensions are new (a few thousand miles), springs and shocks.

The body will get a good inspection once the engine is out; but there is no apparent damage to it.
It's been regularly greased over the years... oil leak, drive axle boots...
And it is an AZ car, so low exposure to humidity or salt ...

I would like to make my SSEi reliable again.

For starts, I have read the info contained in http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/performance/topic24362.html.

I am planning to do all the fixes required for an "upgrade" although the end goal is not more performance, but doubling its life (yes ...

Hello,

I actually got my steering wheel controls down to repair them. Their mechanics are quite simple.
The huge buttons work more or less like rockers and press on small rubber rods, themselves kept in a cylindrical passage.
These rods then push on the micro-switches that are soldered on a very ...

I've gotten some news. It was not the oil pressure switch, but the wires were completely exposed around the connector area. It took me a while to figure it out because it was all hidden under electrical tape.
The big clue was that it became a hard short after I actually touched it.

It will take me ...

Thanks Mike.

I'll give a look at that on saturday when I can focus.

Sorry Will,
I have updated the initial post to be more specific.
Thank you for your time.

Hello Guys,

I have a problem with the fuel pump fuse which blew up a second time in a week period.
The fuel pump was old and was already giving me grief, so I had it changed as a precaution -> The car would take a couple seconds to start instead of starting right up. This part seems ok right now ...

So final update:

It fixed both my trunk switch in the door and most of all: I can drive it to work tomorrow.

To answer you, Sandrock, there is a gauging hole / guide in the assembly, you can actually see it on the close-up picture of the broken part. Aligning the holes as described in the ...

Since it all comes in one piece, I decided to replace the whole thing, instead of trying to check the voltage out.

Deposed the switch, here you can see a crack in the plastic housing that is supposed to be driven by the gearbox command axle (I'm sure there is another name for that).
http://i1038 ...

I have a hard time getting access to the other side of the purple cable, though.
I think I need to put it on stands to go from below.
I'll update the forum when I get it running again… or fail to do so.

Thank you for all your help.

Checked pin G: hot when key is on start position. So if I beleive the schematic I have, it must be around the park/ neutral position switch and my starter.
Which also mean that the starter enabler relay is ok (the one at the stearing column if i have understood correctly)

Thank you again.
Depending on how work goes today, I may be able to take the day off tomorrow and finish the debug.

Forget what i just deleted. I need to go to work now and my sweet and tender half will drive me there. Ill look at the cable tonight.

Thanks for your patient instructions.

Yes, the light goes off a few seconds when left at the last position before the start position.

The security light goes off when i am on the contact position. Which seems normal.
Same issue with spare key

Main power ok.
Command does not come through.
Re-fastened the command line.

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I have tried to start in neutral, but no luck.

1 and 2 happened at the same time, this is why I have mentioned them both.
I am willing to accept a defective switch though…