have you tried moving coils around to see if the misfire moves? if doesn't move and is still misfire on #4 then I would suggest to replace the ICM. ( the plate that the coils sit on)

Hey guys, well im at a cross road sort of speak. Im still learning about the kr an should i get the aeroforce scan gauge from intense then order from overkill or vice versa? Im stuck lol

thanks again guys

MAF sensor is on top the throttle body.

have you tried replacing the thermostat? that could be stuck closed.

YES thats a great point Jer8778 hahahaha i completly forgot that too, try what Jer8778 has said.

replace your O2 sensor, the one before the catylic convertor.

T45 and WD-40 and use a rachet with a lil bar

i dont think that would do anything as i do that too sometimes, i seen a 3800 series 2 in a impala come in to my friends garage a week ago with the same issue and what we found was a a flywheel was broken and had to replace flywheel. how we found that was we took off the starter and used a flathead ...

a heavy foot and low maintenance. thats my guess, how is the motor hunting working?

do you know what the codes are? could be as simple as a garbage battery. or when you installed the starter you might have tighten the 10mm and 8mm bolts too tight and cracked the silonoid. try arking the starter and see if it spins up. just some suggestions.

if you had a bad injector you would have popped codes in P0201-P0206 for fuel injector circuit malfunction.
but to really check is to turn your key on to were the fuel pump starts then off, pull a plug 1 at a time and check if the plugs wet. This is were your eyes are going to be the judge on what ...

will be gradual if the catylic convertor is going on it, you will know when the exhaust starts to stink like rotten eggs and hard shifting in transmission and rattling in center of car, would sound like a loose heat shield. but if its P0420 thats an O2 sensor bank 1 (O2 before the catylic convertor ...

dirty injectors? try a injector cleaner. use with 1/4 or 1/2 tank.

any series 2 motor will work. only changes you will make is swapping the mounts.

can you post the codes for the check engine light? that would help narrow it down.

WOW!! i just listened to the youtube vid and your motors pooched!
especially if you found your oil metallic looking.

you are better off getting another motor instead of trying to repair a money pit motor thats going to run you into the thousands and will most likely just pop again.

sorry for the ...

the best way to remove the flywheel bolts is to remove the starter and have a flat head screwdriver to use to turn the flywheel and i believe the bolts are a 15mm or 18mm and use a wrench to loosen with the screw driver used as a wedge to stop the flywheel from turning as you take the bolts off ...

for bolts that connects engine to transmission, there is 6 bolts that are 18mm sockets, there are 5 that you can see but the 6th is the PITA!!
in order to get the 6th is you have to take off passenger tire and have about 4'ft - 5'ft of extension.
the bolt is between the engine and transmission ...

thanks guys

(bs009) i havent done any wire upgrades but the amp im running is Kenwood Excelon KAC-X1R a mono digital powered amp and i have 2 matching kenwood 12" rated @ 1300W each MAX.
These subs are bridged.
have added a 500K scosche capacitor so this wouldnt kill my battery

When you said ...

i meant to say a farad capacitor for sound systems and what i meant about volume was to turn my stereo higher if i had more battery power.
CCA is Cold Cranking Amps