alright i got the video uploaded on youtube http://youtu.be/ELJi6rgHYj8.

Im not sure if the harmonic balancer is bad yet didn't have a chance to work on it today. also can i not just reuse the balancer bolts, and for that matter the bolts on the piston rods too? i know with some bolts such as the ...

Zeik75 wrote:Alright thanks guys ill get the video up tonight and ill go ahead and get a new harmonic balancer. But os it possible to change the timing chain with it in the car?

Yes.

It is normal for the connecting rods to move or slide side to side. The question is: Do any of them move up and down against the crank journal? That is what you will find if the problem is a worn rod bearing causing a knock. That bearing shell in your hand looks pretty good for 166K. Crank journal ...

Can you help us help you by saying the year, make, and model you are working on? Is this posted in the proper forum?

If you haven't already done so, when the "no start" condition exists, pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. Look and smell for the presence of raw gasoline in the hose. If gasoline is confirmed, change the FPR.

vogie01 wrote:....How hard of a job is it to do the top end? Upper, valve covers, and LIM....

You can judge for yourself. The procedure for replacing the UIM and LIM gaskets is shown step-by-step in Techinfo here:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =53&t=3591

Rod knock is caused when the connecting rod strikes the crankshaft instead of sliding around it. The bottom, or big end of the connecting rod is lined with a thin, soft bearing in the form of a split shell, and is separated from the smooth surface of the crankshaft journal by a layer of oil under ...

After you re-fill the radiator and engine with coolant when the engine is cold, get a mechanic's mirror and a flashlight. Drop the mirror down to reveal the parts shown in the photo above. Shine a light on the mirror. The light will reflect onto the dark engine, illuminating it and allowing you to ...

Well, no coolant in the engine will cause it to overheat! Hope you didn't damage anything. Never put coolant into a hot engine - can crack cast parts, pretty much all the important stuff in there. Here are some places where leaks commonly occur on the L-36:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120 ...

Overheating may be caused by low coolant in the engine. Check the coolant level in the radiator in the morning when the engine is cold before you start it up. Should be full to the top. The recovery tank will not function properly when there is a significant leak in the system, and so, is not always ...

Copied the following from the Techinfo article on replacing LIM gaskets and UIM. Removal of the alternator is part of that job. This was written for a '97 L-36, so should be pretty accurate.

As Dick advised, disconnect the battery by removing either cable, then...


Remove belt from alternator ...

Could be the ignition switch. You could test this by wiring a small lamp (I use a resistor and an LED these days) to the ignition feed from the switch to the engine, and watching to see if it goes out when the stall condition is present.

Also, take a look to make sure the flat square of mastic is still covering the large opening at the side of the rear bench. As I recall, the trim panel beside the seat needs to be removed to access. That was one source of leaks on my '95

Where can I find that 3m strip caulk? Have you ever changed the rear rubber seal on the back window?
Any parts store that sells 3M products should be able to fix you up. I let the professionals re-seal my front and back glass when they leak. Most are put in with urethane these days and the seal is ...

Hi thanks for your help. I took out the rear seat and pulled rear portion of carpet up. Under rear seat is wet, the carpet and pad is soaked in the rear mostly behind the driver seat. When I look on the drivers side where the seat belt rolls back in the rear it looks like water might be coming in ...

The way most have approached this task is to remove the seats, console, carpet, etc. as needed, then have a helper spray water in a "rain-like" fashion while the observer inside searches for the incoming trickle. If the water is coming from under the headliner then, yeah, its gotta come out to ...

A lot of Don's pix are gone, but there is still a boatload (sorry) of good info and other pix in this thread.

Be patient, and read the whole thread; several others chime in with pix on likely places where leaks occur.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... f=19&t=176

AFAIK, the APN kit is only available through that site.
Yep, I think that's right. Would sure be nice if they were available locally; that's why people pay more for the Dorman, because they don't want to wait for shipping. In this case, if you can afford to be patient, you not only save money but ...

If you are buying the parts yourself, the APN UIM is a much better deal than the Dorman. Unless they have changed it recently, the Dorman costs more but does NOT include a heat shield in the failure prone EGR passage. APN is the better choice. Here is the link for the APN manifold:

http://www ...

Is the blower fan iworking properly (lo med hi) and diverting air to where you want it (windshield, floor, dash)? Where is the coolant level? Is the overflow tank full? Low coolant can starve a heater core. Check the coolant in the morning before the car has been started by opening the radiator. The ...