harofreak00 wrote:Yes you need an EBCM. I have them. PM or email me at andrew.suderman@gmail.com. I'll need the 2-digit code off the top: EE, ER, TR, DD, LL, etc...

Thanks Email Sent...

Looking like I may need a EBCM also? getting C1214/1248, I cleared the codes started car and right back on, 2000 Bonneville

Mine are starting to go on my 2000, Do U have to mark the needle position with tape for the stepper motor? How difficult is it itself to remove cluster, i've had the trim piece off before, simple as removing some screws and unhooking harness? If u pull a needle out of stepper motor, can the stepper ...

nos4blood70 wrote:Use the Dormans, all 6 are the same. I did mine in November. What a difference! Replace the rear motor mount while you're in there.

Subframe bushings:
Dorman 924-044

Motor Mount:
ACDelco 25723646

That Dorman # also works on a 2000 Bonne?

My tire place checked the car out, we put two new tires on front as they were needed, shimmy is still there, especially taking off or turning to the right which is the side that’s worse They said the sub frame bushings are pretty lose or worn, that could be the cause? That’s about only thing left up ...

These can be recalibrated using the following procedure:

Calibration Procedure without a Scan Tool
1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the Instrument Panel Control Module.

Important: The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage ...

I’m having this exact problem, have replaced passenger axle, pass lower control arm, new rotors and calipers, new drivers side wheel bearing, new sway bar end links, Has new struts in front, n new air shocks in back also,switched front tires to back, it’s still there! It’s at it’s worse at 60 . It’s ...

So Driving to work today alt gauge was doing some funky moving back and forth and the lights were flickering as it was moving sometimes under 14, but then right back up , kinda sweeping back n forth? I checked connections and everything is tight and plug wasn't loose etc.
Any ideas?

Update, was a faulty TPS Which was new in july!

The car for the past month maybe month and half has been starting In the morning and at idling at 1500 then it would idle down after awhile if I left it, I just figured with the cold weather that was normal usually I just warmed it up for a bit then went to work and all was fine a few minutes later ...

Alt switched, gauge went right up, tested old one and failed on dc bolts and stator test. I just they battery charger on my battery to give a full charge for now, I’ll see how it goes and if I can get by til spring I will otherwise I do have another battery out of my truck on maintain to use.

It was kinda my thoughts too, so if it is failing even tho its reading right when it comes back on gauge would it still show up when their testing it now that its reading right and appears to be charging?

Shows my car uses only a 105 amp? That sound right?

Its starting to get that cold wave in january here in wi, and yesterday went to start car after work and car was idling and then the check gages popped on ,but then went off. I didn't think much about it, but then got down the road to a stop light, and as i was sitting there the volt gauge was in ...

Just wanted to update, Its been a week now and everything is working as it should still! All lights off etc. When i started seeing the issue going into park
from drive, and then seeing how my key switch was I was almost certain that would solve it, cause there was a common pattern i was seeing, and ...

I like to update threads I start especially if it’s a issue that gets fixed , so many times people go on forums but never update what fixed their issues!! Well I think my issue is resolved with the ignition switch , you can hear the distinct clicks now etc.

https://youtu.be/tM-TzvX9kCA

Switch will be here tomorrow, gonna install Saturday , looks pretty straightforward to change it?

It's not a question of whether you can or can't install it without disconnecting the battery, because you can do either. The problem is that when you install it, depending on where the actuator position sensor limits are stored, the old controller (whether it be the head or IPIM) will have those ...

So got the radio n the heater control, took up to my friends shop so he could unlock radio, we’ll got it unlocked but the screen doesn’t come on lol, must not be any good, I’ll take back to junkyard tomorrow. I took a chance and installed heater control without disconnecting battery and it didn’t ...

If you can get them cheap, it's certainly worth a try. With the radio, it will not work until unlocked with a Tech2 scan tool. When you install the replacement, it will read "THEFTLOCK" on the display and aside from warning chimes, will be completely inoperative.

As for the HVAC, if I'm not ...

Ok I'll check them when I can, My radio the cd doesn't work and the screen is not always reading perfectly like it comes in and out on some of the letters etc and the junkyard locally has one for 30 bucks, and i see they also have a heater control for 30 so i thought why not try it too, is there ...