hi, if the oil pressure never goes to red, I would not worry about it. It may be the sender like you say or higher viscosity oil may raise pressure a bit Find the leak and repair and then you can turn your eye to the sender.........where do you live? maybe one of the grease monkeys here can help ...

does anyone know an easier way of reinstalling the fuel rail? any help will be greatly appreciated!

what seems to be the rail install issue - its pretty straight forward


gas keeps leaking thru the injector o-rings from the fuel rail. i just looked at them again tho, the ones that are leaking ...

You may have damaged the engine when it overheated, do a compression check to rule out other potential problems. Did you also replace the lower intake manifold gasket? From what I read you should consider a new mechanic, his or her's skills seem questionable.
Good Luck

no, did not replace the ...

hi, your high oil press. may be unrelated to the rest - is it pegged at max? what do you consider high?

you say oil leak, find out where its coming from and its probably misaligned valve cover gaskets but that wont cause a puddle very fast

this is a solid engine: its hard to kill unless you try ...

well in september i tried to drain my coolant from the drain plug to stop a really tiny leak around the thermostat housing but couldn't get the nuts loose so i gave up. well the drain plug broke without me knowing and it leak ALL my coolant out and stalled in traffic once ( i thought the worst ...

ok i checked the vacuum hoses you mentioned and couldn't find any cracks or leaks and there were no damaged nipples however i took off the hose for the vacuum reservoir again and there was no vacuum or air at all in it, and with the car running i could hear air being sucked in through the hose. so ...

ok i know this topic has been discussed many times before but i think my problem is a little different. the air only comes from defrost and floor, not the main vents. by the way i have electronic climate control. now i read it could be a vacuum issue but on my other bonneville the vacuum cylinder ...

hey wasup guys i haven't been able to give an update so here it is: i drove it like that for a couple of weeks just extremely short distances and avoiding any bump, driving fast and hard braking. i bought a subframe mount from autozone and had someone experienced remove the old bolt and put the new ...

this car is really starting to aggravate me. i replaced both the sensor and the pcv valve, and it's still acting the same!! i would love to replace the maf sensor but i don't have anything that could take it out. (6 point screw with hole in middle). ugh this is my favorite engine but it's really ...

can anyone tell me if i need to replace the whole subframe, or can i just replace the bushings with brand new ones because i can't afford to get a whole new subframe.

man, i just bought this car 3 months ago, finally got the check engine light to turn off, just bought the plates and title for it today, and now it seems like i have to get a whole new car. i'm doing a lot of research on bad subframes and none of the stories are good. i don't have the money to get ...

Hmmm. The bolt must have rusted. If you can get the old one out (WILL be difficult), it should be as simple as replacing the bushings and the bolt, making sure the bolt tightens up...

ok thanks. i can't fix it myself but i know a few reliable people who can. of course i know it's not a good idea ...

^^ thanks for that.

Can you get a picture of what it looks like now? The problem is that the body rusts out around where it bolts on, and there isn't much you can do to fix it short of dropping the subframe and replacing all the rust with clean metal, and a proper nut insert in the body to attach it to. Which usually ...

yea it's the subframe mount. can you tell me the estimated cost to fix it, and the damage it can do if not repaired??

saw a rubber washer or o ring bouncing in my rearview mirror, and immediately after the steering wheel got misaligned and im hearing a knocking noise when i hit bumps. i dont know what the piece is called but i looked under the car and on the driver side near the wheel it looks like a bolt for the ...

well i am happy to report that the CEL is off! i repeat, the check engine light is now off. i can't get any maf cleaner or even another maf because of my budget right now but i took it out, blew hard on it, scraped off some of the built-up carbon with a flathead screwdriver GENTLY and put it back ...

well no the check engine light is still on and i'm still getting hesitation when i start it but there's no noise, high idle, or stalling or surging while driving. once i replace the maf, i'm sure all my problems will be solved once and for all!

hahaaaaa my dumb self not putting in the o-ring properly was causing the noise and high idle. the car is now starting on a dime, and earlier before i fixed it the CEL wen't off for about 3 minutes but came back on. (the CEL has been on since i bought the car 3 months ago).