You could try removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter, as well as flushing and replacing the fluid. I don't think you necessarily need a new transmission, and the parts for this are less than 20 bucks, so it's worth a shot. Does it take a while to go into gear when it's really cold ...

@AJT agreed. A defective battery can still show 12.6V and not be worth anything. I see it all the time... Here's one thing to try: take a measurement of the CCA, trickle charge the battery until it completes a full charging cycle and then take another measurement. If it shows 12.6V and the CCAs that ...

Have you tried having it tested for a parasitic drain? This can be tested at your local advance auto parts, as part of the system test (battery, alternator, starter, as you said). If there's nothing pulling your battery down and you've verified that the battery itself and the cabling is good, you ...

I would check your PCM fuse, it should be located under the dash on the passenger side right next to the PCM itself. You've got to remove the hush panel to get to it. I got a couple screwy codes and cruise stopped working when mine blew... I think it's a 10 amp if I remember correctly.

I know on my 1993 Bonnie, you can jump diagnostics terminals and count the blinks. I'm pretty sure the 1995 Bonnie is OBD2, though, and I don't know how you would go about doing that for the OBD2 system. See if you can borrow a scan tool, for sure!

One way to tell if you're getting spark (if you've ...

Finally figured this one out! My low cooling fan relay was defective, but the high was good. I swapped out the bad relay and now my fans are cooling when the car reaches about 200 degrees. I'm satisfied now, I'm gonna take this thing out for a spin since I've been hesitant to drive it in the summer ...

I wish I had seen this post sooner... If the shimmy seems to get a bit worse when you coast, I wouldn't think it to be the coils. As far as the front end work goes, I will never again replace just the balljoints on a stock bonneville, haha. You can get the control arms with bushings and balljoints ...

Alright... So I used the thread tape with the old sensor (which wasn't bad to begin with, just old) and my gauge is working properly again. I still can't explain the cooling fans not coming on. The coolant temp sensor is now also brand new, but still no change. I tried cutting the A/C on too, still ...

Thread tape is actually what I used, not sealant. I had some Teflon tape laying around from a plumbing job I just finished and figured that it would work well on that sensor. I'm running to grab a biscuit and I'll let you know here in a couple hours how the uninstall/reinstall goes

I think you guys hit the nail on the head. I did use sealant because I tried installing it dry and it was leaking when the engine reached operating temperature. That makes sense that it cannot find a ground and the gauge registers incorrect temperatures. I think I'll try cleaning it up when I get ...

Well, I replaced both the temp sender and coolant temp sensor. I know the sender is responsible for the gauge, and it worked fine before I replaced it. I probably should have left well enough alone there, but I figured I would just go on and replace it since it was original. I did notice that there ...

I've moved on to troubleshooting the cooling system and can't seem to get it right. Neither of my cooling fans will run, not even when I turn on the A/C. Before I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the coolant temp switch/sender, my gauge was accurate. Now it just shoots over to 280 degrees as ...

Gentlemen-

Disconnecting the evap purge solenoid produced no change at all... However, I FINALLY found the problem. I believe I may have crossed a wire when I mended all this wiring in the engine bay, specifically, the wiring for the oxygen sensor. I disconnected the O2 sensor at the harness and ...

That's what I thought might have happened, too. But wouldn't it run poorly from the very moment it fired up? The vacuum leak is around a couple of the fuel injectors; I need to get new o-rings for them, and probably just replace them altogether. The only reason I noticed this was a small burst of ...

I'll unplug it tomorrow after work and let you know what happens... That's a great thought and I didn't even think about the evap canister at all. I'll try that and let you guys know what happens with what i do tomorrow evening!

Thanks for the reply... I did replace the battery shortly after beginning my troubleshooting. It's a brand new autocraft gold that's only 2 months old and is throwing about 12.6v. Now, before I mended the engine bay wiring for the ICM and crank position sensor, I did have to replace the PCM fuse on ...

I swapped the ICM out last night for a brand new one and nothing changed. Still ran fine for almost exactly a minute and then sucked a bunch of air and died. This is such a profound change, too. It's like she runs great and then all of a sudden starts sucking air through a straw, haha. It is also an ...

Thanks for clarifying the MAP thing, I wasn't sure if I was missing it or it didn't exist, lol. As far as the ICM goes, I just tested it with a DIS tester and it was green across the board... Tested great! As for the PCM, I did swap it out with a new one (and swapped the PROM) and nothing changed ...

Alright, I went as far as to swap the MAF for a known good one and didn't change a thing. Runs fine for about a minute and then starts sucking a ton of air and sputters out. I wouldn't think it to be a vacuum leak considering I can tell that the extra air is going through the intake. The TPS seems ...

Ok, so I cleaned the MAF today and didn't really see any change. Car runs fine for about 1 minute, then sucks a bunch of air through the throttle body and it dies. It's an immediate reaction, too... Like a sensor just randomly sent a bad reading. This car has 310k on it and the MAF is original, but ...