Now that I have my front looking the way I want for now, I was wondering if the rear left and right excluding the center could go in the oven as the headlights for the clearing process?
Another thing I plan on investing in the switch bulb/Switch back LED. Have you guys done this? What is the equalizer (LED Flasher Replace) needed for this upgrade? They show EP 26, EP 27, and EP 20.(http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm) I know we do not go up to 150w and I am having a hard time identifying the LED Flasher Replace. Any input on this idea is more than appreciated, I think the ride would look real clean with a clear bulb that flashes orange when the signal is activated.

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jMal843

01 SSEi
20% Tint/Yellow Fog light Tint/clear headlights/60 SMD Xenon SwitchBack TurnSignal/SSS Ultra H&L Beam/SH Fog/clear tails w/Amber LED Signals/SSS Reverse Bulbs/Autolite 605 Plugs/180 t-stat/Power Stop C/D Front Rotors/EBC Ultimax Slotted Rear Rotors/EBC Red Stuff Pads/Intense FWI/MagnaFlow Hi Flow Cat
Standing By-Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge/Tuned PCM/3" Stainless Steel Downpipe/Plog/Resonator Delete/Dual Slant Tips

Some people have done it the same way as the headlights on other forums, I've never seen it done personally. These lights delaminate at the drop of a hat as it is, so I can't imagine it's fool-proof...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

To my knowledge, there is no aftermarket flasher available that will work as a direct fit with the 2000+ Bonneville. We have a flasher "module" that is integrated into the four-way flasher switch. The simplest solution in this case would be to add load resistors to act as dummy loads so that your turn signals don't flash too fast.

For swapping TWO out of four turn signals, use 6 ohm load resistors on each circuit (left, right). This is what I have, I simply spliced them into the rear taillight harness and tucked them out of the way. Try to keep them isolated from plastic or parts that may be sensitive to heat. For swapping out ALL FOUR turn signals front and rear, use 3 ohm load resistors.

An unfortunate side effect of this is that you won't know if your LED turn signals have burnt out. You also will not have any energy savings from the low current draw of the LED's.

I also went with http://www.v-leds.com for their 3057/3157 bulbs. Expensive, but I took advantage of the Black Friday deals they had and got these: http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED-Bulb ... 6-1-2.html - you will probably want similar. No need for a switchback bulb for the rear turn signal.

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler

This.

You don't have the parking light go through it, so IDK how you'd make a switch-back work w/o way too much work to be worth it. Plus it's illegal to have white light emitting from the rear in drive. People would think you're in reverse...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I'm running the same rear turn signal LED's and have been very pleased with them. They are very bright and look much better! Everything mentioned above is spot on! Good response Jerry!

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Eric

2005 SLE, Greystone Metallic, 152K.

A few mods..

For additional reference, these are the load resistors I have: http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fi ... 6-1-3.html

Install guides and other resistor packages with mounting brackets are available there as well. Snoop around!

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler

My Bonneville has the combination 4 way and turn signal all in one flasher. If you don't want to go through the trouble installing load resistors, there is a fairly easy fix.
remove the flasher assembly by prying it out of the dash (the 4 way flasher assembly) carefull not to damage the dash. Remove the flasher from the wire harness. Open the flasher assembly. You may have to break the clips holding it together. Remove the circuit board by prying on the case and black plug. It is held in the case by the front switch and button - it will eventually come out. There is a 4.7ufd capacitor between the relay (black box) and the pins. This must be replaced with a 22ufd 35vdc electrolytic (Radio Shack part # 272-1026). If you're not comfortable soldering, take it to an electronics store and have it done. That is all that is needed. Be carefull on re-assembling the circuit board back into the housing. The bulb on the front must[i][/i] be aligned to fit the recess in the front button. If you happened to break the tabs off when opening the case, wrap it with back tape. I used the 68 LED bulbs both front and rear. The flash timing is perfect.

Hi all, I am experiencing the fast flash as though I had installed LED bulbs or have a bad bulb, looking of the car I see all 4 bulbs working correctly, and all are the proper standard bulb. I tried a second flasher unit, and get a slightly slower (very slight) but still fast flash. I get the same outcome for left turn, right turn or hazards. Any recommendations on where to look next?

You need to wire in resistors.

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-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 247k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 98k miles

Ohm's law and a multimeter will get you the resistor ohm-age you need.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

I would need to add resistors even with standard (incandescent) bulbs?

update 2- i tried adding a 25 ohm and a 50 ohm resistor (one at a time) to the left rear turn signal circuit, neither had any impact on the flasher speed. From the wiring diagram I only see 4 bulbs, am I missing something somewhere in the circuit?

Sorry, I mis-read your post. I thought you got a fast blink after installing LEDs and didn't swap back to filament bulbs.

That's weird that it's still blinking fast. I'm not sure what the issue is.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Have you checked the bulb sockets for corrosion?

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Resident Tightwad

Screw you, Photobucket.

Yes, and I found a little corrosion in one, but that did not make a difference. I broke down and ordered a new flasher and that seems to have fixed it. Thanks