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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:03 pm
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Year and Trim: 1997 SSE
So I decided after 200k miles on my 97 sse, I would start rebuilding the suspension. For about a year now I've been replacing parts, (and in some cases replacing them again) and I'm getting pretty fed up.
First of all, I won't buy any Mevotec brand parts from Rock Auto again. Pretty much junk imho.
Anyway, I started getting a popping noise from under the car, especially when I turn and accelerate at the same time. When it's wet outside it's really bad - sounds like something is broken. It took me a long time to figure out what it is, but I finally found it a few days ago. The new Moog control arms I installed about six months ago have broken welds where the front bolt sleeve is welded to the arm. Fortunately they have lifetime warranties. But it still sucks that they broke. I got two replacements from Rock Auto and after I installed them, all was good. I felt like a genius, cause I've been chasing that stupid noise for so long! Now, after about 50 miles, I think the new ones have broken! I can't tell if I'm doing something wrong, or they have a quality problem. I guess I'll get a couple of arms from the junkyard, put new bushings in them, and give that a shot. Has anybody ever heard of this problem? Also, everything was torqued properly. (I'm pretty anal about that stuff)


Last edited by BW13 on Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:01 pm
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Location: Central Illinois
Year and Trim: 1992 SSE
2009 G8 GT
I put Moog control arms on my 92 and haven't had any problems.

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WHITE WHINE - IT'S INTOXICATING. 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over)
15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Easy Performance Gen 3 Air/Fuel Calibrator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers and 10" Subs, 1300 watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, McCoy Motorsports Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim Trailblazer mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 6:11 pm
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Location: Chicago, IL
Year and Trim: 2003 SLE
Got a photo?

I have Moog arms on my 2003 with about 20k miles on them so far with no issues.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:54 am 
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Year and Trim: 2004 Bonneville SE
To confirm you should torque down when the arm is level (normal ride height). Tightening while at an angle will cause stress when the vehicle is lowered.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:03 pm
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Year and Trim: 1997 SSE
I tightened the control arm pivot bolts with the car's weight sitting on the control arm as it normally would. I'll post a picture of a broken one today. This should be a no brainer, so I'm a little baffled.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:19 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1997 SSE
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r4xGrvTBsMq4RuUf6

Hopefully this link works.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:01 pm
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Location: Central Illinois
Year and Trim: 1992 SSE
2009 G8 GT
The bushing pressed into the subframe makes me want to throat punch someone.

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WHITE WHINE - IT'S INTOXICATING. 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over)
15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Easy Performance Gen 3 Air/Fuel Calibrator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers and 10" Subs, 1300 watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, McCoy Motorsports Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim Trailblazer mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 12:21 am 
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Year and Trim: 1997 SSE
I agree. I never paid much attention to it, but I just don't understand the design. If the control arm is bolted solidly to the bushing, how is it supposed to move? Just the flexing of the bushing I guess. I think the designer was stoned! If it was a shoulder bolt, then maybe I could see it, but it's just bolted solidly to the bushing. The rear mount is no problem, but this front one.....I think they need a do-over.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... LZ586rP2FO


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 12:45 pm 
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Do you have a friend that's a welder? I've never looked at OEM ones, but that weld that only goes half-way around the tube part might be most of the issue. Have a welder make another pass on between that tube and the control arm right below the head of the bolt, the entire way around, in addition to fixing the existing weld break. Probably a lot less hassle than going through the RMA/Warranty process.

And, yes, the bushing deflects rotational in this setup. It might seem like a bad design, but they last a lot longer than the bushings on, say, a W-body LCA. And if the center pin of the bushing ever did separate and free-rotate it wouldn't really matter anyway because the intended job the bushing does isn't to stop rotational motion; that's just a side effect of it's manufacturing process.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:03 pm
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Year and Trim: 1997 SSE
I think I'm just going to get a couple of junkyard control arms and put new bushings in them. I already have the fairly new ball joints on the current ones that I can use. The oem arms look a lot beefier in the area of that pivot point. Even Moog has some suspect parts these days I guess. I feel confident that the breakage is simply because it couldn't take the stress. Plus welds should never pop loose like that. Thanks for all the support and suggestions, this has been driving me crazy! I'll post an update when I think it's finally fixed.


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