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 Post subject: how to remove can sensor
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:30 pm 
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what is the easiest way to remove the cam sensor?


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:42 pm 
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Unplug the connector, remove the bolt and pull it out.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:08 pm 
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It may sound easy,but how hard is it to get too?

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:29 pm 
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Where is it located?? what does it take to get to it?


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:40 pm 
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On the timing cover, just below the water pump.

What is your issue?


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:53 pm 
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what do i need to move to get to it? p0341 code, my car keep shutting off


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:34 pm 
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P0341 is Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

Please use techinfo to list the definition of the error codes. Although some of us live for cars, we do not have all of them memorized. This is a common one though.

Before you replace the sensor, do the following.

Have the code cleared and see if it returns
Remove the sensor and verify the interrupter is still there, this is done by using a mirror and flashlight and slowly rotating the motor

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Check the wiring harness for breaks or rubbing

As for the stalling, check for any codes after this happens. Next, check the crank position sensor connector and condition of the wiring. Also check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Does this happen after driving for awhile or while the engine is still cold? It sometimes points to a failing CPS or fuel pump.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:55 pm 
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cuts of while drivng, whats cps? well couldnt be fuel pump, because before i turn the car on i can hear it humming


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:57 pm 
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cps = crank position sensor

Fuel pumps can get warm from running and cut out. When they cool, they work fine.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:58 pm 
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could this also be a fuel filter or bad gas?


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:00 pm 
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for me to change this sensor, is it hard? all i will have to do is remove the waterpump?


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:03 pm 
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If the fuel filter was plugged it would not be an intermitent thing. It would have problems running.

You can change the fuel filter if you do not know how old it is, they are cheap.

To change the cam sensor, no. It is on the timing cover, but do not replace it until you have done what I suggested before (unless you just want to throw money at it)

The crank position sensor requires the wheel to come off and the harmonic balancer.


Last edited by myfirstbonnie on Tue May 03, 2011 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Going to do it in the morning just as you stated. But sorry i forgot to add, my code readed cam sensor circuit, is that still the same thing? when removing the balancer, just unscrew the bolt in the middle or do i need a special tool


Last edited by xvr843 on Tue May 03, 2011 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:49 pm 
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The cam sensor is in the timing cover and you need to check the things listed before. This is for the code P0341. It is most comonly caused by the loss of the interrupter (magnet) from the cam sprocket.

The crank position sensor often causes stalling when the sensor if failing and is warm. It is located behind the harmonic balancer. To remove the HB you need to be able to break the bolt loose which there is an article in techinfo for. An impact also makes it easier to remove the bolt. You then need a puller to pull it off the crank.

I also suggest you check the fuel pressure at idle and then see what it does when you bump the throttle.

It would also be helpful if you could check it right after it stalls.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:54 pm 
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perfect! Thanks, one more question, so replace both sensors (under the water pump, behind balancer) because i rememebr seeing 2


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:58 pm 
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Why do I not get the feeling you are understanding me?

Do not replace either sensor until you verify the interrupter, check wiring to both sensors, and check the fuel pressure.

If you want to throw money at it, then go ahead and replace them both, but when it still has the code and stalls, we will continue diagnosing it.

Not that I am saying your sensor are good, but we need to do a little troubleshooting and investigating before putting money into parts.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 10:59 pm 
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First off, you should have left this in your last topic.

Secondly, you need to pull the sensor and ensure that the interruptor is there.

There is nothing at this point that leads to the crank sensor. Lets not worry about it till later.

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Good catch Ed.

Mods can we get this merged here:

http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25496


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:11 pm 
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i understand what your saying, i rather go ahead and replace them while i have the cash to do so. i can get the part really cheap being that my gf works at Autozone.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:21 pm 
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First off, i would of ask in the last topic if someone would of chimed in! im new to this stuff, its kind of hard for me to really catch on. For this to be a helpful site you people are rude


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