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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:29 pm
Posts: 29203
Year and Trim: 00 Regal
For some of you that don't know me well, I'm BillBoost and I have a tumor. My tumor is called modding. Frequently I try and test things that others say can't be done. The car has many mods on it and is nearly done getting the latest mod. An intercooler and wiring harness/pcm change to 1999.

Pre intercooler engine mods:
Intense-Racing S1X cam
105# springs
SLP Headers (Required modifing front trans mount)
Gen V M90 supercharger
Northstar TB
GM LQ4 Maf sensor
Intense FWI intake
Mezier electric water pump
2000 alternator, tensioner bracket and ps pump bracket
PRG fuel rails with gauge
42.5lbs injectors

Being that an intercooler will allow you to run a smaller pulley than the nosedrive can accept (2.8"). I acquired a snout turn down tool and performed the turn down on the car before taking it apart. This project happened over two to three weeks you will notice that in the pics there are some changes and differences that I don't really mention.

2.7 fitting like a champ.
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Turndown tool
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Work beginning
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The alternator positive post would hit the supercharger once the charger is 2" higher on the Wbody store intercooler. I needed to talk to a guy that runs an alternator rebuilding shop.
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Being in New England aluminum corrodes quickly. I aimed for a good looking coating and hoped it wouldn't slow heat dissapation too badly. Krylon Wrinkle paint was chosen for it's texture. Due to cost, I chose this over a true thermal coating that claims true heat disipation. Please note that while Krylon claims no cooling properties some have noticed temps to decrease quickly. This aided in the decision to use the Krylon over the expensive one.
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The ported lower intake manifold is swapped onto the engine. The size of this hole was determined by the core that partially sits into the lower intake manifold.
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The intercooler sitting in place. Overall I used the paint on the supercharger, intercooler and lower intake manifold.
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Charger in place for test fitting.
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Here we see inside the supercharger inlet where I filled and smoothed EGR port. You can not run an EGR with an intercooler. The fins will fill up with carbon etc from the exhaust and ruin the intercooler.
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Got an answer from the alternator rebuild guy that this one can't be spun to move the positive cable. However he pointed out that once I had removed the plastic cap on the back that the cable attaches it has a post/spacer. Cut the spacer and post clean and reduce how far it sticks out. Simple, effective and works like a charm.
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Needed to figure out the routing of the hoses since they come off the intercooler on the passenger side aiming straight at the overflow jug. Pulley and belt on charger to give me an idea of about where it will sit.
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Seems like this is the land of a million test fittings.

Pulled the rear rail to route plug wires and decided the 1999 wiring harness was going on tonight
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Test fit #325, not fully happy with the routing of the harness under the charger.
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We are looking at the BCS and injector #5 connectors. A little on the short side.
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Cut the injector connector off, added wire via solder and heat shrink. It's time to measure how long they need to be, solder and heat shrink the other end.
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Twist in line, heat with soldering gun (Weller 140/100 which will solder in high wind :Thumbs )
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Slide the heat shrink tubing up
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Use the overkill heat gun to shrink the tubing
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Added loom to the bcs and temp sender wiring, test fit #326
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Had a double connector here from the electric water pump turn on wire. Decided it was messy and a quick dab of solder would do the trick and leave one connector. As things have it..I would remove that one wire later.
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Test fit #327, decided the wiring would fit nice around the T stat housing. Now which way will this fuel line fit?
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Most likely over the charger
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Happy with everything for fitment and location. Time to put on the cooler. Used some gasket maker where the pressure would be greatest. Below the gasket, on top of the gasket.
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Put the cooler onto that sandwich and added gasket maker to it. Preparing for the next gasket. I made my own gaskets from standard paper gasket material.
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Laid top gasket on cooler
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Somehow the camera ended up on a poor setting. Gasket maker on top of gasket and added the hoses to the cooler.
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Dropped charger on and bolted it down. Didn't notice camera issue yet. :D
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Ok, something is up with the camera, camera man is becoming aware...
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Getting better by steadying off the battery.
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Found the setting. Let's get rolling with pics now. All the bolts on the charger housing look the same.
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A little gasket maker is visible under the charger. The left or back cooler outlet is up against the bolt, leaving no way to support the nosedrive. Luckily it rests a good amount on the cooler and I have little worry.
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Overall pictures at that point.
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Here I forgot about pics and mounted the supply fuel line, map sensor rail and determined the bracket from SC to alt bracket works fine if you enlarge the alternator bolt hole in the bracket. Load the evap soleniod onto it and snap pic.
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Things are painfully slow while making tons of trips to the store as my mind and plan keeps changing. Overall I'm happy at this point except that my buddy and I didn't get any maxifuse relays (stock relays) for this project. Which put the wiring at a temporary stand still until the next weekend when I could go to the junkyard again.

Need a place to exit the engine bay behind the bumper. Found this hole behind the battery.
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With the hoses coming through that hole, I have concerns of them getting rubbed and chaffed. Not wanting to spring a leak, let's add some 1" hose as a buffer over the 5/8" hose from the core.
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Battery out to illustrate the location. Upon seeing the hole, the thought of clean and tidy was in place.
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Battery back in. Hoses held together and routed nicely. Thinking the overflow could become a resivour for the intercooler. Hmmmm
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Adding the heat exchanger, bolting it to the lower radiator support
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That tab needs to be cut.
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Top brackets
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There is actually clearance to the headlight bracket. Not the best pic of it.
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Pump with brackets and flow detect kit attached
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Bumper cover back near car for placement and test fitting. It's nice that I didn't care about the paint on it at this point. :lol:
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And on
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With pump bolted in place, I twisted the brackets to get it turned for maximum clearance and best overall placement.
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And naked again. The line going up into the fender is the supply. The return line is tied to the bumper and will route to the top of the heat exchanger.
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Neatness counts for a lot. Factory looking mods are my favorites, or mods most follks wouldn't be able to notice because they look like factory.

Wiring to the intercooler and flow detector.
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Tucked away
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Typical 96-99 SSEi should have two relays on the passenger side of the maxifuse center. AC and I forget. There are now four in my case. IC, Elec WP, AC and I forget.
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Instead of having two spare fuses in the fuse block, all the spaces are taken. Both pumps suggested 20 amp fuses. Upon removing their inline fuse holders, they were routed through the factory maxifuse center for individual fusing.

Intercooler 20 amp fuse (Replaces spare fuse location)
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Intercooler high power relay (previously an empty location)
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Electric water pump fuse (Replaced spare fuse location)
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Electric water pump high power relay (previously empty location)
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Used the coolant bottle as a resivour (sp) for the intercooler and the highest spot makes this ideal for burping air out of the system.
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It needs a new coolant container and some slight revisions, works great though.

Only one or two hints if you look deep that the wiring isn't from the factory.
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Fresh electrical tape gives me away
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Worlds funniest vids have nothing on me. Fairly unprepared. At the opening of the vid please notice the red light, this is part of the flow detect kit that I was able to locate. It's purpose is red = no flow to IC, green = you have flow. The sounds you will hear are the pump starting (light flips to green) and the coolant moving around in the res tank. The input is aimed toward the top of the tank (poor design, will be revised) and there is quiet a lot of flow from the pump (20 gpm). Note to viewers, only reason I wasn't jabbering in the vid is because my buddy was still sleeping and after painting the bumper and helping until 2am.

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Looks like it's grinning doesn't it?
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Newly painted bumper by Pete
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What's the round thing on the car...a tire?? That thing seemed optional since the car was on jackstands for two weeks or more.
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For the time it's back on it's feet. Intercooler res developed a leak. Somehow it's not a surprise as I overshot the size of one hole with a step drill and tried to goop it as a temp fix until I can pick up another.

Side note: 1999 and 1997 pcm's have some differences. I originally moved all the changed items from the 97 programming into the 99 and it would run for 5 seconds, and start sputtering and dying out when the icm handed the engine off to the pcm. Ken (99 ssei) had a TM issue and mentioned it which later led to me putting a stock 99 SSEi bin (tune) into the pcm. Presto the car runs after the hand off. I'll load the changes nearly one by one to see which one causes the running issues, then document it.

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Last edited by SingsCountry1967 on Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:16 pm
Posts: 41
Year and Trim: 1997 SSEi 40th Anniversary
13.07 @ 106.5
You're a very industrious guy Boosty :wink: :beerchug:

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 8:48 am
Posts: 3702
Location: Rochester, NY
Year and Trim: Past-1993 SSE
Past-1993 SSE SC
Past-1993 SSEi
holy cow! A Shiny bumper...

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 7:41 pm
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Location: Palm Bay (space coast), FL
Year and Trim: 1996 SSEi
Looks very similar to the way I did my IC. Bet you had a much easier time installing the heat exchanger and routing the plumbing with the bumper off...makes me wish I bummed a ride for week and did it that way instead of teaching the neighborhood kids new swear words while trying to install everything with the car intact. Nice work. :thumbup:

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1996 SSEi (year confused and on the road again at last) : swapped 4T65, cammed and intercooled among other things
Best ET: 13.208
Best trap: 104.96mph


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Posts: 1250
Location: Aurora, Illinois
Year and Trim: 2002 SSEi
Wow, you sure do stay busy. Looks good.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:33 pm 
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Tonight was the finishing touches on the resivour tank since the first one had a hole issue.
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Finished engine bay
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Money shot
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:38 pm 
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Nice :) I love the use of the resivour tank. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:56 pm 
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Location: New York
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looks awesome bill, i wish i was a pro like you ;-)... and I wish I had a supercharger.

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Last edited by Phoenix on Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Location: Central Canadicut • ONBF_03 x2 • ONBF_04 • NEBF_06 • NEBF_07 • ONBF_07 • NEBF_08
Year and Trim: 2009 G8 GT
Is that a new tank Bill?

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2003 Granite Metallic SSEi - 180,000 miles – All factory options
Essentials: rebuilt trans. w/ INTENSE shift kit | INTENSE FWI | INTENSE PCM | INTENSE drilled 180 t-stat | Aeroforce scan gauge
Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds | Energy Suspension endlinks
Exterior: cleared corners, cleared tails, red calipers, dual chrome exhaust tips
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:10 am 
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Oh yeah it is Pete. After the swiss cheese issue it was required. BTW once the hole gets close to size, you can turn the step drill by hand and finish to the right size in a slow and orderly fashion. :bhuh:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:13 am 
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Location: Central Canadicut • ONBF_03 x2 • ONBF_04 • NEBF_06 • NEBF_07 • ONBF_07 • NEBF_08
Year and Trim: 2009 G8 GT
3rd times a charm. :lol: Where did you find one so quick?

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2003 Granite Metallic SSEi - 180,000 miles – All factory options
Essentials: rebuilt trans. w/ INTENSE shift kit | INTENSE FWI | INTENSE PCM | INTENSE drilled 180 t-stat | Aeroforce scan gauge
Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds | Energy Suspension endlinks
Exterior: cleared corners, cleared tails, red calipers, dual chrome exhaust tips
Interior: GXP steering wheel


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:00 am 
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Localish yard in Springfield. There are always plenty of H bodies to choose from. Super careful drilling was the key to success. :banana:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:20 pm 
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Excellent work Bill, with the hood closed it looks like an AC condenser. At first I was going to ask you about hood clearance but you obviously got that under control. I can't really tell from your pictures but it looks like the coolant lines coming out of the IC are very close to the SC belt. I am guessing with all the work you have done, you have solid motor mounts and coolant hose movement is not an issue. The car looks great, black boosted 97 FTW!

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1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten
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Last edited by Roadtech195 on Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:36 pm 
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The IC lines are actually a good distance away from the belt, just hard to see from the pics. ( I only know because I'm the guy holding the spray can in the pic. lol)

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2003 Granite Metallic SSEi - 180,000 miles – All factory options
Essentials: rebuilt trans. w/ INTENSE shift kit | INTENSE FWI | INTENSE PCM | INTENSE drilled 180 t-stat | Aeroforce scan gauge
Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds | Energy Suspension endlinks
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:38 pm 
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Good job on the bumper man :beerchug:

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Poly endlinks, swaybar bushings and dogbone bushings. Drop in high flow air filter. Its a start!

2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (project BlackSheep) Bone stock for now, 5 spd and fun as hell! (Gf's Ride)
1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten
1997 Dodge Ram Sport 4x4 5.9L The Beast!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:42 pm 
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I'm guessing thats a JY bumper considering it has the chin again ;)

Can I ask why you dismantled the SC to winkle coat it? Seems like a lot of extra work in masking everything off.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:54 pm 
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Pulled the SC apart to fill the EGR hole and clean out the little bit of gunk that was present from the EGR. It ran with an EGR for a little over a year or about 25K miles. Dismantled, cleaned, filled egr hole, sanded the filler, cleaned again and reassembled.

This also gave me a chance to change the bolts. A Gen V comes stock with a shallow button head bolt that uses a torx bit. They always fight coming out and frequently strip the head and need to be drilled. New bolts went in at the same time and match all the other bolts used to bolt it down etc.

Yes it was more work to mask it off, and then once assembled it received another light coat to keep the seperate pieces from showing.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:58 pm 
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So you are using the radiator overflow for both intercooler and engine coolant overflow? Interesting...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:04 pm 
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Quote:
So you are using the radiator overflow for both intercooler and engine coolant overflow?


As long as both fluids are the same ie. coolant, then it's a perfect solution. I like it. :thumbup:

It lends itself to filling that reservoir with ice for track days. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 7:30 am 
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Put a lot of thought into the res bottle. Nice to hear the compliments on it. Many guys complain about getting the air out of their intercooler setup. This is due in part to the intercooler core being the highest point in the system. The tank can be filled and become the highest point. The radiator will displace a little coolant (3/8") into the overflow tank with each cycling. There will be a little heat from that, not much though. It is located in the potentially hot engine bay, and is also the output or heated side of the core. Potentially it may need to be insulated from the engine bay temps.

The IC and coolant overflow bottle were filled with AnyColor coolant and can be mixed with any coolant on the market.

With a 20 gallon per minute pump, there was a desire for a large capacity of fluid in the system.

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