There's always lots of hype about brakes so when I ran across this video, I thought it did a good job of explaining some of the realities...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8

I also thought the comment "You sound too intelegent to be a car guy lol." posted by someone was pretty funny!

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I find this topic very interesting, because it's always compared to what racing brakes use (have you ever seen a set of street brakes with a rotor that was glowing orange???). Street brakes have to grab cold, grab hard, in a DD. It's nothing like what you'd want or expect from a racing situation. All three of my Honda motorcycles (84, 85, 86) have "drilled" brake rotors, all three are the original 'from the factory' rotors, that have held up to 30 years of regular use and have outlasted several sets of pads, and each have held up to teaching/practicing panic stops repeatedly in a controlled situation.

Corvette J56 rotors are drilled, and from what I found have had decent success at the track.

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The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I guess the only point behind posting the link is that some of the issues apply regardless of whether you're talking racing cars or not. For drilled rotors there's still less surface area, there's still uneven heating/cooling which as you pointed out, probably isn't a big issue as a DD. There have been members however that did experience cracking around the holes so it isn't possible to say that it is completely a non-issue. I've never bothered with drilled or drilled/slotted rotors and I've never had a problem. Personally, I believe in purchasing good quality pad, rotors and calipers (if/when replacement becomes necessary). I've always seen such hype over something that for probably 99% of members is really a non-issue. I felt the video explains rotors quite well whether it be identifying the pitfalls of drilled rotors or simply the benefits of vented and/or thicker rotors.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I'd agree that good quality rotors and pads are going to be good. From what I'd remembered, it was the cheaper drilled rotors that had cracking issues because the holes weren't initially cast into the blank.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67