Why should you change your spark plugs & wires?

Bad spark plugs and wires can cause rough engine idle, your engine to misfire, engine hesitation, and loss of horsepower, changing spark plugs will never add horsepower but the change will restore any lost power and may solve any problems listed above.

Before doing anything on your car make sure you have the knowledge and tools necessary for the job.

I used a Spark plug socket and the corresponding ratchet with an extension. The socket has a rubber coating on the inside that wont damage the plugs and will allow an amount of 'give' so you don't crack your heads or damage any part of the spark plug, I highly recommend using a spark plug socket as opposed to a normal socket.

Changing spark plugs isn't hard, and anyone can do it. but on our FWD cars the engines placement (sideways) makes it a bit more daunting than say, a RWD car.
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At first glance you can see the front 3 plugs covered by their metal heat shields.

I recommend doing each plug & wire one at a time. This avoids confusion and will stop you from having any major problems when you first start your engine.

You will notice that one end of your plug is connected to your distributor and the other end to your spark plug, each plug is connected to the distributor and marked with a number 1-6, that is your corresponding cylinder. Each plug has to be connected for your engine to optimally run.

Starting from the bottom,

The first wire you remove will be to your first cylinder, simply remove the wire and spark plug, you may need to 'break' the plug from where it's currently sitting. Once it's out insert your new plug, (IMPORTANT!: DO NOT CROSS THREAD, IF YOU DO YOU NEED TO BUY NEW HEADS!!) You should feel it seamlessly fit in, if there is any resistance before it's finger tight simply remove it and try again. Make sure you have the correct length wire and pop it on, you should actually hear a 'pop' or feel it. If you don't hear, or feel the 'pop' press a little harder.

Continue these steps for the next two front plugs, this is the easy part.

The most daunting part of changing plugs and wires in the 3800 series II supercharged engine is reaching those back spark plugs! It really is uncomfortable. The best way to do it is

First, kneel on your car. It may sound weird but these plugs are REALLY hard to reach.
My knees sat one above the radiator and the other just below the fuse box where the hood sits.
Then, literally laying across the supercharger I reached down and grabbed the wire boot. It should be brown in color, there are no heat shields on the back of the engine, or at least not on mine! This is the number one problem i found when searching for ways to change those back plugs, people didn't want to kneel over their engine bay in order to do it. BUT THATS THE EASIEST WAY.

When you tighten your plugs I recommend just a tiny turn passed finger tight! There are correct torque specs that go with each type of plug, I used autolite iridium plugs, so once they were finger tight i turned them 1/16th.

If this helped you at all, you believe this is good info, or you have anything to add, or think i should change (hey, maybe i'm flat out WRONG) Feel free to post below.

When you're ratcheting out the plugs try not to hit your firewall, I can still feel the insulation on my hands, it isn't great.

Do not mix your wires! this would be terrible as they're all pretty uniform, it is best to do them one at a time, and make sure you have the correct length wire.

That's all I have for now, If I can I will try to add pictures.

If you're just visiting the website please register!

All sounds good to me.. my hands are still healing from doing mine this last weekend. The rears completely suck haha. Especially the last one in front of the O2 sensor. Also, I've learned the hard way to NEVER use 'platinum' plugs in supercharged/forced induction engines. The burn too hot and literally wore out the day I changed them. Copper or Iridium are the way to go and if you go down a couple heat ranges, (Autolite 104's), you can get rid of/prevent KR.

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1997 Grand Prix GTP "Black Ice, 'cuz it's slick" - 17" Motegi Racing Rims, Hankook Optimo Performance Tires, 'Big 3' Wiring Upgrade, Weapon R Secret Weapon Intake w/ Ram Air, Larger SuperCharger lines, AutoLite 104's, U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete, Cat Delete, Turbo Flowmaster Mufflers. 342bhp, 327 lb-ft torque, 9.091 boost psi @ 6,012 rpm.

Our cars don't have distributors, those are the ignition coils.

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-Ryan
2004 GTO....LS1, LSA supercharged 525whp, 6MT
96 SSEi...September 2010 COTM........GONE
04 GTP comp G.... December 2015 COTM........GONE
2013 Audi Allroad Quattro

Which other forum did this come from?

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

This post is great, because now I can install the 104's I bought. The back three were definitely the ones i was concerned about, and now I dont think it will be a problem! One thing though, on the front three, when I try to pull on the boot, it seems really tough to get out, and I'm afraid of tearing the wire. Are they a lot stronger than I think? In the back of my head I know they have to be but I always get scared to pull too hard.

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Just went outside to see what I could do, and found that my hands couldn't reach back there through the top. I'm not sure how I'm going to go about doing this. I was thinking about just replacing the first 3 now, since those are easy, then maybe going to a shop and have them gouge out my wallet to spend 15 minutes under the hood. Would only replacing 3 for a while be harmful to the engine?

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Kelvin VanderVeen

PERFORMANCE MODS
180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT, AUTOLITE 104'S, ZZP VOLTAGE BOOSTER
APPEARANCE MODS
LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, TAN INTERIOR TRIM, CLEARED CORNERS

You can do it. I'm 6'6", 380 and have ham sized hands and can do it. The easiest way to do it is either to remove the alternator, or the rear lift bracket (2 - 13 mm nuts on the backside of the exhaust manifold) then your hand can slip right in there and easily get at the back 3 plugs.

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Just pulled my plugs and regapped them. the plug wires might be tricky if they have been on there a while but its not that hard.. did the rear drivers side by reaching around the side of the motor between the motor and the brake vac booster.

S

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Shane "RedZMonte"
2004 Z16 Z06: Virgin
2000 SSEi: Kenwood DDX512, 3.25" MPS, ZZP DP, PLog, Puck Mount, NGK TR7's, DHP Tuned
1995 Monte Z34: T04e "60" turbo, 42.5# injectors, Borla Catback, OBDII swap, DHP Tuned, Much more...

I'm probably just going to go the alternator route. So would I just unbolt it, and my arm should slide right in?

_________________
Kelvin VanderVeen

PERFORMANCE MODS
180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT, AUTOLITE 104'S, ZZP VOLTAGE BOOSTER
APPEARANCE MODS
LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, TAN INTERIOR TRIM, CLEARED CORNERS

I did end up breaking a wire.. but that's because I knew I had a spare set and was desperate to get it off haha. Some of them can be a huge pain.

_________________
1997 Grand Prix GTP "Black Ice, 'cuz it's slick" - 17" Motegi Racing Rims, Hankook Optimo Performance Tires, 'Big 3' Wiring Upgrade, Weapon R Secret Weapon Intake w/ Ram Air, Larger SuperCharger lines, AutoLite 104's, U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete, Cat Delete, Turbo Flowmaster Mufflers. 342bhp, 327 lb-ft torque, 9.091 boost psi @ 6,012 rpm.

I took the front three off, just for fun and to understand it a little better, and found there was a 'Vick's vapor rub' like jelly on the ends of the plugs. I'm guessing this is some sort of anti-seize, and not some horrible car disease, correct?

_________________
Kelvin VanderVeen

PERFORMANCE MODS
180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT, AUTOLITE 104'S, ZZP VOLTAGE BOOSTER
APPEARANCE MODS
LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, TAN INTERIOR TRIM, CLEARED CORNERS

no need to pull the alternator.. i reached the 1st 2 rear plugs from the top with the cover off. easy as pie.

the goop on the plug is spark plug boot grease.. keeps the plug wire from sticking and also allows a better connection between the plug and wire. i would suggest small ammount of anti sieze on the threads ofthe plug and the goop on the end of the plug for the plug wire to go into, makes replacement next time easier..


My wires broke the 1st time they came out, would suggest a plug wire removal tool or a good set of channel locks and light pressure.

S

_________________
Shane "RedZMonte"
2004 Z16 Z06: Virgin
2000 SSEi: Kenwood DDX512, 3.25" MPS, ZZP DP, PLog, Puck Mount, NGK TR7's, DHP Tuned
1995 Monte Z34: T04e "60" turbo, 42.5# injectors, Borla Catback, OBDII swap, DHP Tuned, Much more...

Just got my spark plugs replaced, and it was actually a lot easier than I thought! I actually stuck my arm in where all the pulleys and belts are behind the alternator. Its still a little tough seeing what you're doing, but with a lot of elbow grease, and a little cussing, you can get it pretty quickly. It only took me about 45 minutes, and this is the first time I've ever changed spark plugs on this car.

I did manage to break one of the wires, but fortunately, since I have the project car, it happily donated one of its wires for this car

_________________
Kelvin VanderVeen

PERFORMANCE MODS
180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT, AUTOLITE 104'S, ZZP VOLTAGE BOOSTER
APPEARANCE MODS
LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, TAN INTERIOR TRIM, CLEARED CORNERS

Did mine in the 2002 SE today, plugs and wires... took me no longer then 15 minutes during the Michigan meet while BSing with other people

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Ryan

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one