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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:54 pm 
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So my car's been experiencing the 4T65 malaise going around lately. For treating the symptoms, a TransGo shift kit was installed, along with a new filter and 14 quarts of new Valvoline Maxlife ATF. So far it seems to be working flawlessly. Shifts are very quick and positive, much more so than the shifts done by the DIY shift kit I installed earlier. Here are some (crappy cell phone) photos and installation notes, and the obligatory ramble.

Note: I (and PontiacBonnevilleClub.com) don't take any responsibility or have any liability if you mess up something.

To get to this point, you'll have had to dropped the pan, removed the filter, and removed the shift accumulator. There are directions on this if you search around.

First off, here are the directions included with the kit. Very comprehensive, and very easy to follow. You'll have an extra yellow spring (maybe a red spring also), and some other bags left over.
Image

Here are the springs included in the TransGo kit assembled according to the manual. The order is: TransGo 2-3 springs, OEM 2-3 spring, TransGo 1-2 springs, OEM 1-2 spring. As you can see, the TransGo springs are thicker and more numerous than the OEM springs. Push on the springs, and you'll feel the difference immediately. The OEM springs are far weaker. Although they do make good stress relievers to play with.
Image

These are the spacers included in the TransGo shift kit versus the spacers I had in the transmission before. The TransGo stuff is again on the left, the DIY kit is on the right. Like the DIY kit, the TransGo has .75" long spacers in the bottom of the bores. Where they differ is on top of the piston. A .53" long spacer goes in the 2-3 accumulator piston top, vs the DIY's .75" spacer. The 1-2 piston doesn't get any spacer. I elected to keep the .5" long spacer from my DIY kit in the 1-2 accumulator piston, and to follow the TransGo instructions to put the .53" spacer on the top of the 2-3 accumulator piston. The .75" spacer leaves no room for movement of the 2-3 accumulator piston, so I followed the instructions for the 2-3 accumulator. Here's the picture illustrating the differences.
Image

Now, to the installation.

Here is an optional step of using a Scotch-Brite pad to lightly scuff up the accumulator piston bores. The idea behind this is to get oil clinging on the walls to lubricate the piston. Intense does this, so I did it too. It's not mentioned in the TransGo kit. It seems to be working so far.
Image

These are the springs for the 2-3 accumulator assembled. The order, heading from outside in, is: plain, red, white. They just slide into each other, no sweat.
Image

Now, the springs are pre-installed on the accumulator piston. Seat the springs on the piston like you see in the photo, as it's impossible to seat them by dropping them into the bore. I tried, and failed miserably. The springs will re-align once you put the piston back into the bore.
Image

I put this together to illustrate a step where I differed from the instructions. As I was not opening the side cover, I had an extra red spring in the kit. That spring is found in the 1-2 accumulator now. I did this because I wanted a crisp 1-2 shift, and it needed a home. And, if the 2-3 shift can benefit from that red spring, the 1-2 can as well, at least to me.
Image

I followed the kit's instructions for the 2-3 accumulator, and made some changes to the 1-2 accumulator that I think will be beneficial:

Differences I did from the TransGo instructions:
1. Added the red spring to the 1-2 accumulator springs. The 1-2 springs are now identical to the 2-3 accumulator springs.
2. Kept the DIY shift kit's .5" long (for the folks who didn't have a DIY kit to cannibalize, its a .5" long by.25" inner diameter) spacer in the 1-2 accumulator piston top.

I think these changes made the kit a bit firmer on the 1-2 shift. It also shortens the shift time. This is noticeable with downshifting, which has noticeably less lag than with the DIY shift kit. Upshifting is firmer too. I think these changes are for the better, although time will tell.

After the photos, I finished up by reassembling the accumulator, installing the filter, cleaning and installing the pan, and running 14 quarts of ATF through the transmission. I then disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to wipe the computer's memory so it could learn the shift kit.

So far, in the few miles I've put on it, the shifts are very quick, positive, and firm. Downshifts are faster, as are upshifts. It's almost like a 4T60. Nothing jarring, just fast and smooth shifts. I'd highly recommend this kit to anybody with a 4T65 looking to band-aid their transmission's pressure control solenoid (PCS) problems.

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Last edited by LeSabre in Buffalo on Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:20 am 
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Looks like a great job, great pictures, especially considering they're from a cell phone!

It seems as if you did this all from the lower pan and did not need to pull the axles and remove the side cover. Was this a particle Transgo installation, or can the entire shift kit be installed from beneath?

Does anyone know much about what can be done with the 4T60e in the same way? I do have that TCC issue which seems to be much better after a fluid/filter change last summer, and the addition of a friction modifier recommended by the dealer. I have a feeling that there's probably nothing else I could do about the TCC unless I'm prepared to drop an axle and pull the side cover (I'm definitely not that ambitious!).


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:49 am 
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enslow wrote:
Looks like a great job, great pictures, especially considering they're from a cell phone!

It seems as if you did this all from the lower pan and did not need to pull the axles and remove the side cover. Was this a particle Transgo installation, or can the entire shift kit be installed from beneath?



Thanks!

This is a partial installation through the transmission pan. The entire kit needs the side cover to be off.

Also, there are other things you can do for a 4T60. This is specific to the 4T65, especially with PCS problems.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:28 am 
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The transgo kit for the 4T60 is far more involved and should be done by a professional. It also requires removal of the trans from the car.

Go to your favorite auto parts store and get an adjustable shift modulator (it controls shift line pressure). It's the vacuum doo-hickey on the front drivers side of the trans. Most aftermarket replacements are adjustable, and it should be under 20 bucks.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 3:09 pm 
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How much can the line pressure be adjusted before you start blowing internal seals? I heard that the Transgo kit on Ford's AODe would sometimes blow seals because of increased line pressure, hence everyone was installing a J-mod instead.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:48 pm 
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It's never happened on any 4T60E I've ever heard of since 2002. I have it on all 3 of mine, and I've seen hundreds installed through this club.

And we don't have AOD's. Enuf said about that.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 5:00 pm 
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OK, maybe I'll try it out then. It is my wife's car, so I don't know if she'll like the harsher shifts.

I know you don't have AODe's, but I do in my Grand Marquis. It's actually been a pretty good tranny for me, but I'll retrain from praising the competition. I quite like how the 4t60e shifts in the Lesabre. And since I've discovered that Park Ave's come in the non-supercharged versions, I will consider one of those for my next car. It's gonna be a difficult decision.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:29 pm 
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A few notes after putting on some miles. This kit is not harsh at all. It's very quick, and has made the transmission generally do things better. It upshifts faster, it downshifts faster, and it's not harsh. I'll update after a few more miles are on the kit.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:00 pm 
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Yep Dave... Its the reason I wanted you to use the kit... Let us know how it does for you..


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:26 pm 
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It's seeming like it's corrected the shuddering issue. Unfortunately now the transmission sometimes "pops" out of 1st when I nail it from a stop or very slow roll. Eh, at least it'll go. Oh well, looks like the transmission is on borrowed time. But that's for another topic.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:34 pm 
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Nope, shudder still there at WOT from a standing start. Feels almost like wheel hop. I'm thinking broken motor mount now.

On a lighter note, the shifts are very short and crisp. Hardly noticeable if you don't know what to notice.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:39 pm 
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Quote:
Go to your favorite auto parts store and get an adjustable shift modulator (it controls shift line pressure). It's the vacuum doo-hickey on the front drivers side of the trans. Most aftermarket replacements are adjustable, and it should be under 20 bucks.


Bill, I installed the adjustable modulator in the 94 and the instructions said that it adjusts the shift point higher or lower depending on turning the screw clockwise or counter-clockwise. :???:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:46 pm 
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That would be along the lines of the old Turbo 350... For the THM440T4, 4T60, 4T60E this only controls shift feel...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:30 pm 
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Quote:
That would be along the lines of the old Turbo 350... For the THM440T4, 4T60, 4T60E this only controls shift feel...
That would be along the lines of the old Turbo 350... For the THM440T4, 4T60, 4T60E this only controls shift feel...


No, I have an adjustable on the Firebirds Turbo 350 and it adusts shift feel but the unit for the 4T60E says 1/4 turn one way decreases shift rpm and 1/4 turn the other way increases shift rpm.
Says nothing about shift firmness or feel. :???:
I have left it at the normal factory adjusted setting and haven't played with it for fear of hurting the tranny.
I have a feeling that the trani on the 94 has been rebuilt in the past because when I took out the engine, the trani bolts were not tight. The backwards bolt, you know the one, was not tight at all and easily removed with just a 3/8" ratchet......but all the same I didn't want to mess with trying to firm it up or raise the shift point.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:33 am 
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OK Paul... Throw the piece of paper in the trash... It absolutely does not work that way... It only controls line pressure and for the 60E that means shift feel... Line pressure has nothing to do with shift time on the 60E... Turn the Modulator up one turn and you'll have a firmer shift


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:52 am 
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I understand what you're saying. This is a vacuum controlled modulator, I know it's not a governor.
What I think they are trying to convey in the instructions is if the firmness is increased, the shift will happen sooner or at a lower rpm and if softer, the shift will happen slightly later at a little higher rpm. This will be dependent of course on throttle application, thus the "feel" will be affected. :bhuh:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:40 am 
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The 65 E is a very different animal.. Lets keep it about the 65E for now...


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:13 pm 
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Woops sorry I thought he was posting about the 60E. :ack:

Quote:
Unfortunately now the transmission sometimes "pops" out of 1st when I nail it from a stop or very slow roll.


If that's the case then it's probably a failed trani mount that is allowing the transmission to rotate and cause the shift lever to pop out of gear.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:32 pm 
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2000Silverbullet wrote:
Woops sorry I thought he was posting about the 60E. :ack:

Quote:
Unfortunately now the transmission sometimes "pops" out of 1st when I nail it from a stop or very slow roll.


If that's the case then it's probably a failed trani mount that is allowing the transmission to rotate and cause the shift lever to pop out of gear.


That may be an "Aha!" for me. Don said basically the same thing in my thread about the problems this kit is supposed to fix. Looks like I'm getting some engine/transmission mounts.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:25 pm 
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I am looking to maybe do a shift kit soon. Could you update as to the ongoing satisfaction/ performance?

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