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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:44 am 
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I actually haven't had any problems with my tranny since I dialed in the modulator. That is except for the hard shifts when cold. Ryan just said that going to drive from cold before reverse will help. So I'll try that this am.

As for why I am racing on a tranny that may be bad is that it'll will have to be replaced eventually anyway. And I am willing to take the consequences because I seriously want to race and drive fast. Can't do that on the streets in Portland.

And it's possible my tranny is not bad. It's been quite awhile since I put in the modulator. I put it in because the trans was slipping right after I changed the fluid. Everything and pretty much everybody here said it was because my discs had been shellacked from neglect. And it's possible (I hope ) that this condition has improved. I'll switch back my old modulator temporarily today to see if it still slips.

Kris

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:58 pm 
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Do you realize how much a trans rebuild or replacement costs, and are you prepared to pay for that now?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:11 pm 
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I am aware that racing a car at all increases the risk of trans failure. Mine may or may not be sick. I reinstalled my old modulator yesterday and it operated flawlessly. It could be that the original problem of a slipping transmission was due to the grit built up on the discs being removed when the trans fluid was changed. They were then perhaps too slippery to engage. The adj modulator remedied that and after about a year the discs are now good enough. Which would mean that I do not have a sick trans. This could be b.s. too, I don't know. What I do know is that car has been driven hard a lot and racing six or ten runs twice a month is not risk I worry too much about. But, no I am not ready to replace a $1400 transmission tomorrow. The money is there, we just haven't worked out everything.

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Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:33 pm 
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spoiledred94 wrote:
I need work on my starts, but DO NOT want a ticket. I also need to learn just where the powerband is in my acceleration so I can shift right.
Keep your drag starting at the track. It's not so much about you not wanting a ticket as it is we don't want you running over our kids. Tickets suck, sure, but it's not the reason you don't drag on the street. Moving on. . . I recommend you leave the trans in D (not overdrive) and let the computer do the shifting.

Launching that worked best for me was to stand on the brake with the left foot at staging and bring the RPMs up to around 2000 with the right foot and hold them there until the last yellow light. At that point let off the brake completely and control the launch with the go pedal. I started out by flooring it, but got a bit of wheel spin. Things improved by rolling into the accelerator smoothly from the rev point to the floor over the span of perhaps one second.

We have different but similar drivetrains, so you might experiment with that, you could vary the preloading RPMs at staging and see if you get any better launches. Did you adjust your tire pressure at all, or monitor it between your track runs? People recommended I drop my front tire pressure and I was very skeptical, but this really did help knock off a tenth or so, dropping pressure to 25 psi. Between runs the pressure would creep up a bit, and it helped consistency to keep it dialed in.

If you stick to brackets, it becomes a much more interesting process of knowing your car's performance traits and controlling your own reaction times. If you keep things dialed in and improve your consistency, your car can compete without needing expensive go-fast mods, and you can feed your go-fast need safely at the track.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:08 am 
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Geez, well said Bugsi! I once got stopped by a Wa. state cop while doing 65 in a 35. He looked at me and asked why shouldn't you be going that fast. I said, sadly, because I could hit a kid or a dog or another car and that that would be very very bad. Good answer he says and I got away with a warning. The next night on the streets everything was different... I could ruin a lot of people's lives by a chance occurrence. There just wasn't but one place I knew of that was safe for WOT and they patrolled that heavily. So with encouragement here I keep my lust for power to the track.

I tried that method of holding down the brake with the accelerator revving the motor. It just sounded sick and I don't know wether I was faster or not. It's that the motor revs up to about 2K and then slowly falls back down with the brake on. Every body suggests this method, but I tried a light touch on the brake and no accelerator and got about the same result. I shifted the gears manually holding out for red line revs before up shifting which feels and sounds like a better approach while racing. Got my best time ever last week on my 1st drag ever with the tranny in D and leaving it there.

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:01 pm 
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spoiledred94 wrote:
I shifted the gears manually holding out for red line revs before up shifting which feels and sounds like a better approach while racing. Got my best time ever last week on my 1st drag ever with the tranny in D and leaving it there.


Contradiction?

You should never be shifting your auto like a manual. Its pointless, you'll never be able to shift as good as a computer.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:29 pm 
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yeah, I don't know about that. It shifts too soon in my opinion. more left in the powerband when it shifts. It will certainly take a lot of consistent runs before I know for sure. I could have tried letting the car autoshift Th, just didn't think of it.

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:54 pm 
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trust us. your car doesn't make its power at high RPMS anyways, let the PCM shift for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:01 pm 
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dont you have a thrasher pcm? with that your car should be shifting at the best points on its own, like all have said, dont shift yourself

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:16 pm 
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what RPM are you shifting at?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:51 pm 
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If you're WOT, and your TPS and PCM are both working correctly, you should already be shifting at about 5200+. There is absolutely no reason at all whatsoever you need to shift the transmission manually...there is no benefit, and serious damage COULD OCCUR. This of course not to mention the fact that the L27 doesn't make a lot of top end power. It makes 170 horses at only 4800, the powerband begins to drop back off above that. This is not a racing engine, this engine is designed to make sufficient power without having to go WOT.

Another thing about that transmission shifting...at your 1/4 mile trap speed of 80, you would JUST be leaving second gear, meaning that you might only be shifting ONCE in your track run...once again completely disproving the need for your manual shifting. Just put it in drive and let the computer do the rest, you can't outsmart it.

Normal L27 activity for being in overdrive. 0-95mph. http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f229/ ... f621a3.pbr

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Last edited by wjcollier07 on Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:14 pm 
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Yeah the Sinister Performance chip auto shifts at about 5000> I was manually shifting at red line (about 6K). I only heard once of someone suggesting to manual shift for race. I will definitely let the car shift itself. I didn't mention it before, but once It auto shifted in to second anyway and that was the last gear before 1/4mi

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Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:12 pm 
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If you leave it in 1st, and got to WOT, it will automatically shift to 2nd to save itself. It will not shift to 3rd though.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:48 pm 
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You were over 1000rpm's off your peak hp when you manually shifted it at 6k.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:16 am 
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I was 1000K off in each case: 4K+ = auto shift up a gear. 5K is where I shifted manually to second, which is also red line.

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 6:10 pm 
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The PCM in this car is set up yo do a WOT shift at 5200 Rpms... Yes thats with your foot on the floor... If its not doing this something is not quite right... You do have a 5600 Redline, But the PCM will shift at 5200 even if you leave it in first... iirc it will also force the 2-3 at 5000-5200...

I have shown this vid a battery of times... Keep in mind this is an L36 with he 3.06 Ratio... The 1-2 shift happens at 5950, it doesn't matter if I leave it in 1st either, at 5950 it will force the shift to second.. The vid just gives you an idea of what the PCM is doing...
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And all I can say is... Sometimes you do end up paying for playing... This was Motor #2
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:29 pm 
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Spoiledred, what did you specify for shift points in that Sinister PCM when you ordered it?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:57 pm 
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I took a look for my Sinister Performance pcm mods and could not find it. I thought it was in my journal, but no. I haven't noticed any difference between the old pcm and the new except the speed limiter has been raised.

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:39 am 
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I know I am not supposed to reply to my own posts, but the preceding post was old and I didn't think it alright to edit the old post:


I found my pcm program list. I asked to have my shift points set at 4200.

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:55 am 
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:bluetwitch:

WHY?

No wonder you are wanting to manual shift it.

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